Greetings. I'm a new poster and a long time lurker. Thanks to all the amazing folks who post, I can always find an answer using the search function. I'm rebuilding a GA case 2.0 I pulled out a wrecked (bent) 914 I got cheap. The motor is interesting, has low compression bus pistons, real 3 bolt 914 heads that appear rebuilt, a hydraulic cam and lifters.

I've had the crank tuned .25 under and I'm beginning to pull together parts to reassemble. I'm keeping the stock FI, increasing cylinder size to 96mm and using Jake Raby's 9590 (new version of the 9550) kit.

I have two crank gears, one I bought:
Click to view attachment

and one that was on the crank in the motor:
Click to view attachment

My questions is that on one of the gears the alignment marks are exactly opposite the key slot, on the other the alignment marks are one tooth to the right.

Is one or the other correct? Tom Wilsons book seems to indicate that the alignment should be opposite of the key slot.

Any help much appreciated!

Well, after additional research seems like the answer would be to degree the cam. As a place to start which tooth is the stock tooth? Directly across from the key or off by one? Since the 914 2.0 and VW Bus 2.0 had different cams were the crank gear marks different?

It is generally worth attempting to degree the cam since advance/retard adjustment options are pretty limited?

OK, after looking at lots of pictures here is my conclusion: The gears appear identical but the gear at the top (with marks directly across from the key slot) is for a type 1 and the lower gear (with marks one tooth to the right of directly across is for a type 4.

Just for closure, after looking at a lot of pictures, looks like the top gear above of is from a type 1. Gear looks exactly the same size, dots are one tooth different.

I have 1973 1.7 L in the garage for the salty Wisconsin winter, I spent last winter welding up the hell hole and longs. I'm not a great picture taker but:
Click to view attachment

Is that an MG-A on the side burner?

Glad we could help




Your project mirrors my own, but since mine was a 1.7 I had to gather the 2.0 FI parts.... runners, plenum and TB.

I also added a set of heads from HAM

All my rotating parts are at the machinists now for balancing

Keep us posted on your progress.

and

Yep, the MGA is a longer term project. Perfecting my welding skills as the longs on those rust even more than the 914 (of course the MGA has a real frame too). I got the EA 1.7 above cheap as well. PO couldn't figure out the skip (had and has original FI), I started with Muir, graduated to pbanders, Finally found that one side of the trigger points in the base of the distributor was dead. Then it ran well enough to notice that the TPS was worn! After that was replaced runs great.

The 2.0 L I bought was a 73 with the 37 ECU and 39 MPS (doesn't hold vacuum). I've found a 43 ECU and 43 MPS. I struggled so long with 1.7 FI I grew to like it so want to keep stock FI (I know, I like torturing myself!)

I have a banana muffler and 2.0 heat exchangers on the 1.7 right now but can't come up with a good place to put an oxygen sensor so I'm thinking about picking up a Bursch quiet and putting the o2 sensor at the collector before the muffler. I like the idea of being able to tune to the air/fuel ratio.

Building the 2.0 is my winter project and I'll share my travails with rocker geometry, etc. There is so much great info on this site! Thanks to everyone!