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era vulgaris
I just picked up a '72 914 with the stock 1.7 FI engine a couple weeks ago. It's been a blast to drive and it was doing great until a few days ago.

But now it will not start after it's been driven more than a few minutes unless you let it sit for a significant amount of time, usually overnight. The engine cranks, but doesn't fire once it's warm and even within a couple hours after it's been driven. Starting completely cold for the first time each day doesn't seem to be a problem though.
It's also starting leaking a significant amount of fluid. I can see drip marks all along the underside of the engine, the oil cooler, and on the oil filter, but everywhere else is bone dry. The fluid on the ground looks and smells like gas mixed with oil. However there's no leaks from anywhere I can see in the fuel system.

I'm a type1 guy used to carbs, this is my first type4, so I'm not particularly familiar with what can go wrong with the FI system. Could it be leaking gas into the oil somewhere?

I'm guessing the two issues are related since they began at the same time. Does anyone have any idea what's going on?

Thanks!
JawjaPorsche
Your first concern should be fuel leaks. Fire is a real concern with 914's especially with high pressure fuel. Replace all hoses. This is a good start. Maybe someone more qualified than me can help with your starting issues.

Have you checked your spark plugs? Gap should be 28. NGK BR5ES are the best plug for your 914.

Oil leaks can come anywhere! Push rod seals, oil cooler, etc! Everywhere! Someone said the Type IV engine will stop leaking when it runs out of oil!

Welcome to our forum. You have come to the right place.

welcome.png
dlee6204
It sounds like you might be running rich which would explain why it only starts when cold and the gasoline smell in the oil. Possibly mass pressure sensor is bad or your cht sensor is bad/ shorted.

The oil leak might be from the oil pressure switch located on top near the distributor. It could also be from a bunch of other places laugh.gif


This is a good site for trouble shooting your D-jet system.

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/
76-914
There is a single wire lead coming from the #3 cyl position. It passes thru the engine tin and ties into another single wire that is under the battery. Get an ohm reading when cold and after warmed up then report back. Or, next time it won't start and is warm disconnect that same wire and ground the side coming from the engine. If it runs order another CHT sender. Also, you'll want to chech and confirm fuel pressure = 30psi nominally. welcome.png
era vulgaris
Thanks for the welcome!

The fuel leak is definitely my first concern - I'm well used to the danger of fires from owning type1's. Also used to the oil leaks from them as well! wink.gif
But what I'm experiencing isn't just a drip, it's a full on leak.

That said, all the fuel hoses are new ethanol rated hoses with new hose clamps, and there's no leaks from the hoses or any hose connections. I feel like the fuel is mixing with the oil within the engine itself, as the oil dripping from the engine appears thinned and already smells of gas.

Does the D-jet use port injection? Is it possible a rogue injector is dousing a cylinder with gas and that's how it's getting into the oil?

I'll check the plug gap and see if that helps with the starting issue.
era vulgaris
QUOTE(dlee6204 @ Nov 18 2013, 05:42 PM) *

It sounds like you might be running rich which would explain why it only starts when cold and the gasoline smell in the oil. Possibly mass pressure sensor is bad or your cht sensor is bad/ shorted. The oil leak might be from the oil pressure switch located on top near the distributor. It could also be from a bunch of other places laugh.gif

This is a good site for trouble shooting your D-jet system.

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/


I think it's possible it's running rich as well. My idle doesn't go down below 1500rpm even when warmed up. I need to spend some time learning the ins and outs of the D-jet system. Thanks for the link!


QUOTE(76-914 @ Nov 18 2013, 05:43 PM) *

There is a single wire lead coming from the #3 cyl position. It passes thru the engine tin and ties into another single wire that is under the battery. Get an ohm reading when cold and after warmed up then report back. Or, next time it won't start and is warm disconnect that same wire and ground the side coming from the engine. If it runs order another CHT sender. Also, you'll want to chech and confirm fuel pressure = 30psi nominally. welcome.png


Thanks! I'll check that wire and report back with the findings.
dlee6204
QUOTE(era vulgaris @ Nov 18 2013, 05:44 PM) *

Thanks for the welcome!

Does the D-jet use port injection? Is it possible a rogue injector is dousing a cylinder with gas and that's how it's getting into the


It's possible. To check your injectors, remove them from the intake while still hooked up and place them into small jars. Turn the key on and see if any spray. Try cranking it and see if one squirts a lot more than the others.
era vulgaris
I forgot to mention I'm also getting pretty bad backfiring on occasion. When it happens it's usually a couple seconds after I let off the throttle completely, especially if I'm over 3500rpm.
dknechtly
Hi, It's worth working through the troubleshoot that dlee6204 gave. Since you're replacing the hoses, go ahead and take the injectors out and clean them (use new seals). Hook a couple of AA batteries in series (for 3 volts). Connect a small hose(old fuel line) to the outflow of the injector. Connect your batterery setup across the injector leads and blow a good blast of air into your hose back through the injector.
Backfiring can be from several issues: make sure valves are adusted, clean the injection trigger points with a note card (NOT emory) and check the resistance (very important!). make sure your exhaust to the head is tight. On the FI cars, running lean on any cylinder makes it run very odd.
You may have an injector staying wide open, letting it flow into the crankcase. Don't forget the cold start injector. In the south, you could by pass this for now.
blitZ
QUOTE(era vulgaris @ Nov 18 2013, 05:51 PM) *

I forgot to mention I'm also getting pretty bad backfiring on occasion. When it happens it's usually a couple seconds after I let off the throttle completely, especially if I'm over 3500rpm.



Sounds like an exhaust leak at the head.
rick 918-S
welcome.png I would start by pulling the engine, remove the tin, clean up everything, change the oil cooler seals and anything else that looks like a potential failure. I would not re-install the engine until I replaced the plastic fuel lines in the tunnel with the stainless set from one of our vendors. Check to see the proper clamps are on the fuel lines and not cutting the lines.

I had a car I purchased that was burnt from an engine fire. It happens quicker than you can think. You car is 40 years old now. Unless someone has done a full on engine removal it's time. welcome.png
Tilly74
First of all - welcome.png

Second of all -
QUOTE
It's also starting leaking a significant amount of fluid. I can see drip marks all along the underside of the engine, the oil cooler, and on the oil filter...


Relax, your 914 sounds completely normal. It just needs some TLC. I think I'd be more worried about a 914 that doesn't leak..."hey something fishy is going on here..."
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