What is recommended type and grade of oil for 914 901 tranny? Direct me to old thread on this if one available, cannot locate one. I use Swepco 201 in my '83 911 SC.
Thanks.

some say swepco some say the stuff from flaps

your choice

QUOTE (911914 @ Dec 25 2004, 07:09 PM)

I use Swepco 201 in my '83 911 SC.

swepco. nothing else. don't listen to anybody that tells you otherwise ...

Andy

Most any modern gear oil is fine. Change it every year or two. The gearbox seems to be the most ignored maintenance task on any car

I use Swepco, but the trans guru I know says the same as Tim. I've used Valvoline & can't tell the difference.

I use Amsoil and been very happy with it.

j

Redline worked great on my 914 tranny, shifted poorly (grinds) when bought, did oil change, Stalube 80W-90 gear oil, no improvement, drained and refilled with redline synthetic, and grind problem (happened even when warm) went away, it was like a mechanic in a can for me. Drove that car another 60K miles with no tranny issues again.
Be sure you get the right product for your syncros, not all gear oils are the same, even if same wieght, some oil can be too slippery for gripping, and others can be corrosive to copper alloys used in some trannys. Others have different slip properties which must be different depending on the type of gear cut on the differential.
See factory ratings for the correct lube differential wise

The tranny lube must meet several criteria, so be sure is the right stuff.

Anyone that changes oil per factory schedual or better is doing the tranny a big favor.

Synthetic is best for cold morning starts, as regular gear lube is very very thick when cold, synthetic doesn't change much, so it is thin even when cold, hence can really improve cold shifting problems, that go away once tranny is warmed up.

dave

dave

QUOTE (dmenche914 @ Dec 25 2004, 10:57 PM)

...  Be sure you get the right product for your syncros...[they] can be corrosive to copper alloys used in some trannys...

i.e. GL-5 in a tranny that's supposed to have GL-4 oil in it. The GL-5 will 'attack' the yellow metals (bronze, brass). Not good.

Yes, synthetics are definitely the way to go and undesputibly 'free up' hp by reducing frictional losses.

The most important thing is to change it regularly and make sure the tranny is filled up. Check at each oil change and change at every other change.

After a rebuild, I used FLAPS oil for the first change (in case of leaks) then Mobil 1 after that. The is nothing wrong with SWEPCO, except the price.

I've heard some say using synthetic gear oil in a 901 is bad for the syncro's because it's too slick? What is the real storry?

Swepco be the shit. It's almost like putting brand new syncros in there...

My next oil change I'll be fillin' 'er up with some and see if my occasional 2nd gear grinding has gone away.

The owner of the VW shop where i used to work used a 'moly', I think it's actually something like 'molybdenum', based gear oil, anyway, this stuff would climb gears like crazy. Notably the ones inside the transaxle. Anybody else used or seen this stuff, can't recall what it was called. Opinions? anyone?

The ability to magically climb the gears, as one oil aditive has in a neat little display at local autostores is not enough. the important criteria in a the 914 and simular trannies is:

1. The differential is lubed with same oil as the transmission, and differential gears require specific rated oils for the type of cut angles used on the differential gear (ring and pinion). Wrong oil will shear apart in the gear, and become ruined, no longer a good lube.

2. The transmissions contains copper alloy parts that can corrode in some gear oil formulations.

3. The syncros need a certain amount of grab, so an oil formulated for the Porsche syncros need be used to prevent clashing upon shifting, which will cause damage. Too slick, no grip.


So the oil you select must meet all three criteria. Synthetic or regular is a seperate issue. Synthetic is great because of the cold shifting ability, performs cold just like as if it is already hot. Cost is a bit more however. If you grind in cold mornings, the cost is well worth saving the wear and tear.

Do NOT get gear lube on your skin, if you do, wash it off with cold water and soap right away