Sorting out the PO & Renegade's ... interesting wiring and I'm looking at the ground path.

Starting at the battery negative terminal, there's a cable runs to the back of the alternator pivot bolt (not to the chassis), then there's the transaxle ground cable away back at the back end of things. I'm fairly sure that this is part of why I am only seeing 10V at the dash with fans and headlights on (lots of ground path resistance).

Where was the battery ground originally connected? Worst case I can just run another 2ga cable down to the transaxle ground, but that seems a bit silly. If I can, I'd like to find a well-grounded bolt nearer the battery...

Thanks for any suggestions. I think a 105A alternator is also in my near future.

Original ground point is on the body just above the battery. Cable is about 18" long

Mine is grounded with a negative cable that goes to the top trans/motor bolt. It seems to work, but at some point I need to replace the lug that goes through the body which serves as a ground, as Curt mentioned.

And no electrical issues? You need both.

Sorry, my fault Paul, should have been more clear. I don't have a picture, but the negative battery cable runs to the long engine-to-transmission bolt behind the #3 cylinder, exactly opposite of the one holding the top of the starter on.

I still also have the transmission ground strap as well. No electrical issues....for the most part. The ones I do have are my own damn fault (need a fog light relay).

Eventually I'll find something that will work to replace the broken-off original negative ground above the battery. But for now, this works.

The majority of the electrical system uses the body as ground.
This is why the battery is attached to the body and not the motor.
If you are having starter issues, fix the starter or get a new tranny ground strap.
If your alternator is not charging properly, fix that.
I ran an extra ground wire to the starter bolt, that worked for me, but I left the ground attached to the body.

Everything aside from the starter and the fuel injectors is grounded to the body.

The lug is right next to the negative terminal, on the inner fender, can't see it unless you look up under the sheet metal deck lid shaped piece.

I was under the impression that the car would have issues without the short ground to the body.
The engine is isolated from the chassis with the mounts . As the car moves, vibration would weaken the ground. I don't think the ground is adequAte coming from the engine / transmission. Direct ground to body is the secures way
My 2 cents

Thanks for the pointer - once I knew where to look, it was just a matter of cleaning off the paint that some PO splattered all over it...

I have a 180 Amp Powermaster Alternator that fits GM for sale. Only about 2000 miles on it before I swapped out my engine...