Can I inquire if do I really need to use Prep Ready and Marine clean before coating a POR 15 on a surface rust?

Can I just remove loose rust using wire brush or grinder and vacuum it then immediately coat it with POR 15?

Thank you in advance!

Follow the directions

POR15 dries pretty hard. You won't get it off if it doesn't work... At least not easily.

Just don't ...

I know there are some post i made 10 years ago here that advocated POR15 but in the years since i have come to the conclusion that it simply does not work as advertised, no matter how much prep work one puts into.



There really is no substitute for real rust repair done the right way!

Salamat po sir for responding!

Any detailed advice sir can you share?
Thank you!

I found Por 15 worked good when all the steps are followed; but also found not all rust is created equal. My engine bay rustorations have held up well.

Walang anu man....

Andy is right too. If it's more than just surface rust, you need to repair it. Surface rust just clean primer and paint.

The only place I'll use POR-15 is in the nooks/crannies inside the doors. (Kind of like a seam-sealer of sorts.)

And that's always ever just surface rust. I wouldn't ever use it on anything structural.

Thanks for your inputs Sir Jim, Conedodger and Cptripps!

Here is the places where I'm planning of using the POR-15.
Any suggestions please!

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Yep I agree too. You have to follow the instructions exactly and use all of the products or don't bother. If you do that it can be fine as a protective coating and to stop surface-type rust from continuing but NOT for major rust or as a substitute for areas where rust needs to be cut out and fixed.

If you use it on the surfaces in the pics you should grind down the welds in the one pic, and on the floor pan and trunk wire brush off the loose paint and rust so you have a nice smooth (well actually kind of roughed up by brush which is what you want) relatively rust free surface. Then use the cleaner, then the neutralizer, then the POR 15.

edit: and...don't get any on your body parts....there was this guy one time... (shout ouuuuuut to the elder members....you know what I'm talkin' about....hootus)

POR-15 is really finicky. Eastwood makes a rust encapsulator which is apparently much easier to use and what I'll use in the future if I ever need to again.

POR works great on areas that have some surface rust and "tooth" to them already. It sucks on any smooth metal, and even when I prepped my areas exactly as described, I got a ton of fisheye. I've painted multiple cars and never got a single fisheye, so why POR is the way it is, I do not know.

+1 on wearing a longsleeve shirt, pants and two sets of gloves. You will not get the stuff off once it's on you.

Thanks for all the comments/suggestions my fellow teeners!
The picture show like it is really a color or solid rust like copper because the original color of my teen was copper metallic and it was painted by the previous owner on top of the original color. That is why it looks very rusted.

But again, thank you and I will try to grind it to bare metal as possible before using POR-15.

So the answer to my question is not just to use POR-15 only but follow the instruction by using all the items needed like Prep & Ready and Marine Cleaner before applying POR-15.

I also ordered Eastwood internal frame coating rust prevention w/spray nozzle for my tunnel before installing back the ss fuel lines, clutch cable, speedometer cable and accelerator cable. But I might be painting some part of the electrical along the tunnel.

Thanks again to all of you guys! God bless!

Do you think sir I should just use Eastwood Rust Encapsulator instead of POR-15 which need more preparation compare to rust encapsulator?
thank you again!

POR 15 is meant to be top coated. Just POR 15 and exposure to UV will break it down.

Whoa.....

There are several different products you are talking about.

POR has a rust encapsulating paint. For light surface rust you should just apply it given you have selected the right product. Talk to them directly....they are right by you in OC....nice folks.

A rust conversion paint coverts the surface oxidation into a hard oxide coating....sort of like anodizing aluminum....I won't get into the metallurgy part. When using a conversion paint you should just make sure the surface is free of dirt and grease. On new metal you will need to actually make it rust...to make it work. So if you are using an conversion paint...don't waste your time taking it down to bare metal.

Call them.

I agree with the other comments on heavier rust on structural components....they should be repaired.