First off, let me say the car has been a blast

But I didn't really understand what a "track" car was.

have ordered some of the needed parts from tangerine to get heat in the car.

I have also gotten a working bellows thermostat and ordered the cable wheel to hook the cooling flaps back up.

But my question is, what if any tin pieces am I missing in these pictures.

only one pic here and it is pretty tight

though that does look like a steel nut on your exhaust stud which I believe is not ideal.

jim

the previous picture is where the thermostat and wheel go. If as I suspect I am missing a piece of tin what does it look like and where can I find it? I also think I may be missing some on the other side which this pic is of.
Click to view attachment

I have gotten some of the heater tins I need and have recieved some hoses from 914rubber and ordered the HE and modified parts from Tangerine.

Attached are some pics of the car, the first night I got it the alternator belt kicked and had fun putting it back on.

the previous picture is where the thermostat and wheel go. If as I suspect I am missing a piece of tin what does it look like and where can I find it? I also think I may be missing some on the other side which this pic is of.
Click to view attachment

I have gotten some of the heater tins I need and have recieved some hoses from 914rubber and ordered the HE and modified parts from Tangerine.

Attached are some pics of the car, the first night I got it the alternator belt kicked and had fun putting it back on.

Click to view attachment

also here is a link to the ad I responded to that has more pics.

my new to me car

any help or advise would be greatly appreciated as I would love to drive this car all year and with a lady friend Click to view attachment

Looks like you have headers or at least not heat exchangers. Air guides (the tin pieces you got from Tangerine) may not fit unless you have HE's. Check the link to parts catalog in my signature for part diagrams

my guess is you are adding a tangerine heat exchanger.

http://www.tangerineracing.com/914headers.htm

I do not know how tangerine's interfaces with the cars stock system but I assume you will still need heat control boxes #8 and #9
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/h...;section=202-15

as far as engine cooling tin, see this link or type47's

the bellows and wheel you are talking about is for engine starts to get engine up to temp faster.

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/p...e_914_parts.php

jim

yes i have ordered the heat exchanger from tangerine along with modified parts to attach to the headers

I also have gotten the bellows thermostat and ordered the cable wheel which is missing.

will look at the links for the tins I think I am missing.

thanks guys

Looks like you are missing the "warm air guides". I think have a set if you want them cheap. PM me.

Little stuff I saw missing, the little metal pieces that hold down the cooling flaps.



and the spark plug wire hold downs which plug the holes in the engine tin


There's also a metal piece that holds one of those on the front of the breather tower, to hold the wires as they go across to the 3-4 side. You can kind of see it here


It looks in this pic like the passenger side engine seal is missing? along with the part of the engine shelf that holds it? I'm confused by the engine tin at the lower left here, too. It looks like the wrong piece there?



I was wondering what is the hose coming through the inner fender by the battery there?
I am guessing they go to the lines you can see in the front wheel well here. Any idea where those go? - I don't think they are stock.

best pic I can get of pass long in engine bay

and one with all welded on engine cooling tin removed, you can really see the long within the engine bay in this pic.

ericonel pm sent


nathonsnathon in an earlier life the car was an AC car so the hoses I believe were refigerent lines. They will go and the holes will get plugged later, maybe next year, maybe sooner.
I assume I can use 20 gauge metel to make the little pieces for holding the flaps down. I will try pelican or a type 4 vw store for the wire holders.
The tin being the wrong one would not surprise me, I did get the engine seal kit and once I know I have all the right tins plan on installing it.

Jim yeah I have located both the passenger and driver side tubes that the heat hooks up too. I also plan on removing thr rocker panels (?) to make sure they are connected all the way up to the front.



I got the cable roller today but need to get (make) a bushing as the hole in the roller is much larger then the 6m bolt the exploded drawings indicate. I figure it being for a VW bus shouldn't matter if I use a bushing and washers. I plan on installing it and the thermostat tomorrow or saturday so the engine will warm up quicker.
Also plan on adding seat rails to the original seat and leave them on the racing seat so I can swap seats easily depending on if I am just driving or going to do autocross.




Thanks again to all of you as I need as much advice as I can get.

I will post better pics later.

Oh yeah, I forgot about the AC. I think they butcher the engine tin and the shelf to install that at the dealer. The odd tin is probably a patch. The engine compartment should ideally be sealed so hot exhaust doesn't come up and make it run hot.

The bolt for the thermostat pulley is special and has a larger shoulder.

The stock flap hold-downs are like hardened or spring steel. You might want to use heavier than 20 gauge as the spring is pretty strong there on the one.

the special bolt makes sense; will have to try an aluminum bushing as the original bolt is missing. 1/8 steel should work for the hold down for now.

I will be down there on the 16th if you would like to have me take a look.
I won't be in my 914, but I know every part by heart, so I will be a let o see if something is missing.

No need to take off the rockers, the heating tube is inside the inner long and comes out behinds your front speakers, so pull off the speaker pods to make sure you have the paper tube running up to the mixing valves.

I think these may be what you need, but you will want to confirm with others here.
Will PM you paypal info

looks like you need to find and fix some oil leakage...

The factory used steel exhaust nuts, albeit Helicoiled. What would you have him use? Brass? Aluminum? Those POS "copper" lock nuts (which are actually copper plated steel with a self locking device to make them lock tho the stud and impossible to torque properly).

The Cap'n

Ericoneal those look like parts 11 and 12 from the exploded view I got from Bowsly and am sure I need, I think I may also need parts 17,20,21 and 24 they are all called air ducts. was going to scan it in but the scanner wont scan will have to look closer tonight about the other parts.

Mike yeah, I got the adaptor and dual oil pressure sender and plan on installing that, I think I have seen on here where sometimes that is the source and also plan on replacing the gasket under the "tower" (? might be the wrong term). But I figure at some time I may need to get into it more then I want to right now.

Got the scanner working. I circled the pieces I think I need.Click to view attachment
Will have to crawl under and look closer when I put the t-stat bellows and cable roller in.

exhaust nut thread...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...;hl=Copper+nuts



jim

24 you probably have - it is hidden between the oil cooler and the case,similar to 17 on the other side, under the top tin. Something to keep in mind about 12 is there are different versions for tail shift and side shift.

I bet you are missing 17 and 18 below, to seal the heat. Also, I think 2 (?) of 26. It looks like you are missing 20 and 22, maybe 24 and 25?

yes I am pretty sure I am missing 17 & 18 plus both 26's from the heater tin diagram.
I have already gotten 20,22,24,25 and both 4's and when the HE and parts come in from tangerine I will have at least one 9 modified along with other modified pieces. Right now my biggest concern is were the cooling and heater tins connect together as I am pretty certain some are missing.
the flapper boxes while not always cheap seem to be available so not a huge concern at this moment.
the tins on the other hand seem to be harder to find.

I will look for the pieces you were talking about, now I have a better clue where to look. and yes the car is a side shift so it is good to know there are differences.


you all are a great help

The tins that I have were given to me in a box by the previous owner, who had removed the heating system, and the car is a 1973 2.0 sideshift. So they should work for you...

attached are some pics of what I have gotten. I am aware that I may be missing a hose and a seal for the fresh air box, sending out a request for info to supplier; figure it is holiday season and things happen.

Click to view attachment hoses, the reddish ones go from the heater flap to the long behind the seats? I know two of the black ones connect the blower to the down pipe on each side.

Click to view attachment heater tins I have. waiting on HE and modified pieces from tangerine. then will know if I need to get flapper, at least one comes with kit. Also getting the 2 pieces of tin from Ericoneal, so I might a shot of getting heat for xmas.

heater lever, cable and have other little pieces as well (nuts, seals)

Click to view attachment and added a second set of slides to orig seat so it and the rally seat can be swaped without haveing to swap parts. found a passenger sun visor to replace one missing.

Seems there is a little debate about what kind of nuts to use on the exhaust. At this time the exhaust is not an issue and I suspect the guy I bought the car from used the bolts that came with the header kit. It gives me something to think about in the future when I go to get into it a little deeper.

Click to view attachment The key I got with car looks really funky, almost serated (on the left), so I got some locks that had a key that looks "normal (center) and some blanks and plan on rekeying my locks and getting new keys cut. right know the key I have only works in the ignition, I figure it would be nice to have one key work them all. I have found the rekeying thread on here. tons of info and advice here.

again thanks to you all.

another question, for surface rust; what do you all recommend. wire brush or wheel and then coat treat it with what? again an area of debate. I don't think I have any major rust but you never know. Both trunks need the RD panels I have welded in, and the drivers door needs attention but I would like to try to get ahead of any other rust before it gets bad.