What is the best match for rear brake calipers if I am planning a 5-lug conversion with 1970 911T Struts and hubs? Leaning towards the 3" Brembo Aluminum calipers in front, the lightweight is a big plus in my opinion.

Hoping to use the 911 parking brake in the back, so no need for complicated rear calipers with internal parking brake.

Besides a 3" M-Caliper (38mm?) what are the other options for the rear calipers?
Something lightweight would be a bonus . . .

If I where to run a dual master cylinder pedal with balance bar would it be possible to just use another set of the 48mm Brembo Aluminum calipers on the rear?

Call and speak with Eric Shea at PMB Performance. You will never regret that call. http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog.html

911 brakes boil down to the different connections and cables required for these brakes vs normal 914. Do talk to Eric which I believe is the best source for this information.

Do research on this board and you will find a wealth of information.

Tangerine Racing has a modification to the 914 cables which adapt to the 911 brakes.

You can make the 911 e-brake work, but it's a bit of a sucky set-up in a 914.

I'm going to be running the same front set-up, IMHO run the stock 914 rear calliper with drilled rear rotors and 5 bolt hubs (modified 4 bolt) or do the V-caliper if you really want to run vented. For the v-caliper you need Eric's kit (or finished v-caliper) and you need to trim a bit off the 911 rotor.

Unless you are racing the un-vented rotor system is good enough.

My v-calipers are nice, but came with no hardware (pad pins)...and Eric never returned my e-mail so I'm having to make my own hardware.

Not really asking about how to make the parking brake work. I'm asking about the non-parking brake caliper options.

Thanks!

I'm runnng the 911 e brake with standard Boxster calipers front and rear. I bought the adapters from Richard Johnson. He is in the members vendor section. The brakes are probably overkill, but I love the braking, balance and most important doesn't squeal like the 944 turbo brakes I had in the front before.
I think my front struts are 3.5" spacing though..

PMB Performance also has new aluminum 914 style rear calipers with the parking brake built in if you want weight savings and ease of installation. They are a bit spendy, but worth every dime.

I may be changing out brakes to something bigger than I have and putting my Brembo AM calipers up for sale if you're interested.

I bought mine from Eric and they are a piece of art! In my opinion, why reinvent the wheel? He has every option to keep the parking brake and have good brakes for a fair price.

Oh, did I mention he is a great guy?

Link to get you there http://www.pmbperformance.com/914brake.html

I'm not sure using 911 parking brakes qualifies as reinventing the wheel . . . .

It's a matter of personal preference I guess. Eric Shea has admitted himself that integral parking brakes can be a love/hate thing and that because of the parking brake many of the 914 rear calipers being used on the road today are NON-functional. I personally don't like the failure modes that the integral parking brake causes. Having a separate parking brake, in this case 911 drum-type, has more appeal to me.

Watching this closely as I am going to need a set of rear calipers for the same setup

definitely talk to Eric. I just went thru making this decision, as i had purchased the group buy 5 lug conversion. Eric explained bias, balance and what goes with what.
I was looking at 'M' calipers etc but for the expense you really don't gain that much advantage. the stock calipers as he will tell you do an excellent job stopping the 914 when new or rebuilt.

In the end i ordered from him stock replated and rebuild calipers for front and rear. They are original to the car and with the correct pads do an excellent job, even on the dragon . - larger pads have more surface area-more friction, more heat- Eric convinced me that properly functioning stock calipers were just fine for me even if i do an occasional a/x, not worth spending 4x more for a slight (maybe) gain

good luck

+1.........

If properly bedded and adjusted they work great.

2lbs. 12oz. light enough? 38mm pistons are the perfect bias for the fronts.

http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...645/9768541.htm

No on the balance bar MC, you would only be able to pull the fronts or rears out of the system. With the 38mm pistons you have the prefect bias match for the 48mm fronts.

For $100.00 more I'd just go with the proper 914-6 rear calipers. Love for me, hate for others who don't want to or know how to maintain them. They're a great caliper that should be simply adjusted once a year when you inspect your brakes and change your fluid (right?)

If you don't want a handbrake, fine. If you do, it would be cheaper to run the 914-6 route vs. doing all of the mod work for the 911 handbrakes.

http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...676/9712726.htm

I think it's funny that a $699.00 "pair" of calipers is spendy.

I'd love to have a proper handbrake, but I'm going to be running the Boxster calipers, so I think I need to go with the "modern" brake-shoe drum setup. Right?

Why's that funny? (says the person who has thrown you a lot of cash)

I did say they were worth every dime.

Because, that's really cheap for a pair of calipers.

Not sure how much cash you've thrown me has to do with it? I just think it's funny.

That's $350.00 each caliper. Pistons alone go for $45.00 each so now, $260.00 each. Then there's raw materials, molds, castings and machine work, anodizing, fasteners, seal kits and labor to build them. What's that boil down to? Even if you divided all of those remaining processes out evenly that would be $32.50 each process!! Nobody here could do all that for $699.00 Yay/Nay?

These are pricey:

https://www.google.com/search?es_sm=122&...680&bih=934

Fair enough. My "spendy" comparison was to FLAPS rebuilds for $100 each that are no where near your quality, not to mention that your aluminum versions are new. Some can't afford the initial cash outlay, others are shops repairing on the cheap to make a profit.

Bottom line is that your stuff is worth every dime, and the reason I keep coming back as well as referring others to you.

I have been thinking the Aluminum Brembos on my 911T front struts with Eric's Aluminium 914/6 rear calipers should be a prefect set up. More brakes than my narrow body 914 will ever need, in a 205 width even sticky "race" tires will only provide so much grip.

Not cheap as in a couple hundred bucks but for a good brake set up it is cheap.

Save on un-sprung weight and get a balanced brake system that is bolt on.

Jim

Quality is not inexpensive. At the sale price if $700+ for a set! it's a great price.

I have the boxster calipers on my /6 conversion, and love them. They stop great. I have the 911 drum style park break, and it works fine if properly adjusted. You do have to be able to weld to set this up, as you have to have a stop block on the trailing arm for the shoes. The rest is bolt on.

That's what I'm looking for. I haven't seen a thread that specifically talks about WHAT to buy to make it work. I can weld and am getting ready to completely rebuild the rear trailing arms, so now's the time while I have them stripped. I'm going to weld tubes in anyway, so one extra step to give me a proper handbrake is a no-brainer.

I was also hoping to find a good/easy way to relocate the handbrake to the center console. Since I'm gutting all that stuff anyway, I may as well "while I'm in there."

E - Your site says $799.00 - and worth every penny

Did Jeff Hail relocate the handbrake on his build?

I would like to get a dedicated parking brake caliper. I've seen them but not big enough to fit over my 930 rotor.

There are many ways to skin the cat.

Tangerine racing offers one way to do it in a complete package: http://tangerineracing.com/brakes.htm

I relocated the brake cable brackets on the trailing arm so as to have a straight pull on the bell crank. The bell crank pivots in a bronze bushing from Lowes inside a weld on bushing purchased from http://www.aa-mfg.com/. This all slides onto a bolt welded to the trailing arm acting like a stud. I never took any measurements, but may have more pictures. One thing for certain, the block that the brake shoes rest on and the bell crank pulls against must be reinforced. Otherwise it will fail.

Use one of the Wilwood spot calipers and create a thicker spacer to accommodate your rotor. I've got a place near me that can waterjet a spacer in pretty much any profile.

Click to view attachment

Stumbled across these images as well:





And this one with the wider spacer mod mentioned above. In this case it was for Corvette brakes:

Please review the thread title.

$699.00 for the caliper the OP is asking about.

Now add all of the internal adjusters, a core set of 914 calipers to get arms and parts off and you can apply the same makeshift math to the 914-6 calipers.

That first picture is mine. I have one piece of advise for you. DON'T DO IT! I tried it, and Wes Hildreth tried it on a car owned by Mike Floyd here in the DFW area. We learned that if you set the park break with the rotor hot, you need a big assed hammer to get them to release. There was no spring we could find that was strong enough to pull the pads loose.

Wilwood used to sell that setup for their Ford 9 inch and Chevy 12 bolt disk brake kits. They have all been replaced with an internal drum brake like the 911 park brake. I called them and asked, and they had the same problem we did.

He's absolutely right

If it's one thing you guys shouldn't be cheaping out on, its your brake system! With all the $$$$ we throw at these cars an improperly set up braking system is likely going to get you into a really bad situation that will ultimately cost far more than doing the job right... Just my 69,900 cents

Yes we should not be cheaaap . I walked this path > 15 years ago. Since I used my car for the track, I simply went to Race Technologies and they made up a system with 993 Big Reds on all 4 corners...no parking brake -

YES!!! That's what I need.

The second picture is of mine. I read about the sticking pad problem, but have yet to experience it....Knock on wood! I too called Wilwood, and the guy I spoke with heard of no such problem.

Andys

Ipsco make a nice spot caliper for Pantera and Vipers that are small and light. Good design for clamping. Will go from .750 on up to 1.25 inch thick rotor.

The Brembo spot parking brakes used on Ferrari are really light but they are kind of bulky. They are fairly cheap to purchase though and cable operated.

Many new cars are using electric park brakes. I believe the ford fusion is one. Anyone try one of these?

Harpo

I went down that path but most of the electric actuated parking brakes are integral to the caliper. I did find the following article on Brembo's website with respect to electric parking brakes that they have in or under development.

http://www.brembo.com/en/News/Pages/BREMBO...FFICIENCY-.aspx