Has anybody done a hydraulic set up with the original peddle cluster. I think I would like to try that route rather than cutting open my tunnel. What say you is that wise or is not that bad to cut and reweld.

I would look into using a pedal cluster out of an 1989 thru 1997(?) 911, they used a hydraulic clutch and had a similar pedal assemble.

Jim

To fix the cltuch tube no cutting of the tunnel is needed and its not recommended. Easy fix of you know how to do it. Search here for the repair. Its basically a strategically located plug weld to hold the tube to the tunnel wall.


http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...14150&st=20

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

That's repairing the aft connection, where the tube comes through the firewall. There is a front attachment as well. I believe it's in front of the shifter. If you scrape the tar sound deadening off the side of the tunnel, you can usually see the spot-welds. Drill them out, clamp the bracket in place, and plug weld it. Better than new!

McMark can do these in his sleep.

--DD

The bosen tube is brazed in 2 spots in the tunnel. . there is a bulkhead plate and braze between the seats under the center. . you have to cut an access hole to get to that one. . . It holds the middle section of the tube in place. . The other one is right before the shifter alongside of the throttle cable tube. . . again you need an access hole to braze it back in place. . be careful of mig welding the tube. . if the weld penetrates the tube, you'll have a hard time replacing the cable next time as the larger threaded end might not pull through the tube any longer. .

Thanks guys thats not as bad as I though. I think me and my welder can handle that.

Welder and I.

When pushing in the clutch it looked like the tube moved front to back, there was very little movement, but what it did have looked like it was front to back. I don't see how thats possible unless it broke loose at all three weld points.

I thought my clutch tube broke twice. Both times it was not the tube.

Check the obvious first!


1) the cable could be frayed or stretched or broken

2) the pin on the pedal cluster could have broken

3) the nuts on the transmission end could be loosening

4) cable could be twisted around another cable


Good Luck

Thanks I am going to take a closer look but the adjustment was fine one shift and the next I could barely engage the cluch.

Mine was not broken but as a precaution, I welded a reinforcement just aft of the bracket near the throttle. The bracket added was about 1 " lengthwise of the tube. So it should help ease the load on the front bracket, as well as help stiffen the tube from fore and aft movement. Hopefully this additional bracing may prevent the tube from breaking loose at the fire wall.

Yeah, I had the same thing happen just before the clutch cable popped. I still remember that feeling when I heard the bang, felt the clutch pedal go to the floor and realized that I had no clutch control. Interesting drive home to say the least.

Get under the car and have someone press the clutch pedal. You will see right away if the clutch tube is flexing.

An old school macguyer reinforcement trick is to weld a washer that slips over the tube end at the firewall end, to the firewall (and tube).

That washer reinforcement trick is a good idea ..... I may do that also .... just to make sure ....

My vote is the pin sheerd off at the cluster. Check the position of the pedal in relation to the pivot arm in the tunnel next to the gas pedal. I had this happen recently. I checked everything and found no problem. I got frustrated and tightened the cable again using washers and pressed the pedal and again it went to the floor.


AND it was an easy fix

Found my THREAD if it helps you.

Good thread


Edit: I will have to find pics of my reinforcement job, the added bracket I welded in, is located in the most forward part of the shifter hole. I made sure it would not interfere with shifter travel. It is similar in size as the factory one below, (visible through the cutout).

cutting open the tunnel isn't bad. Here's where to cut measured from the front of the shifter cavity (from someone else's post) and my solution of using a bolted on pipe clamp to secure the front end, very easy, no welding needed. The firewall end of mine had a large chunk fractured off but still attached to the tube, so a heavier steel plate screwed to the loose firewall piece and the virgin firewall holes the aft end securely.

Click to view attachment


Click to view attachment