Hi'ya all :-)
My PO had told me that the trailing arm bushings would need replacement and since I had the transmission out (Dr. Evil sorted it for me-Thanks doc!), and the shafts (obviously) off, I thought this would be a good time to do the bushings. Also, a pal of mine gave me a set of boxed trailing arms with brand new bushings in it, so why not go ahead and take care of the job now, right?
I've read my manual and while it looks like a pita it also looks fairly straightforward.
I thought before I embark on this "easy" (have to laugh) task, I'd ask for advice and or tips that the manual doesn't say anything about.
Anyone want to chime in with thier experiences?
Thanks all,
David

Plan on having difficulty removing the three outer console bolts.
They often tend to get rusted in place, and then the head snaps off while attempting to loosen.
Pop the plastic caps above the bolts and blow out the holes with compressed air. Then soak with PB Blaster before wrenching.
You want to avoid breakage, because repair is a major PITA, so take your time.

If the new bushings in your trailing arms are anything other than oe style rubber, the pivot shaft must rotate freely, and stick out of the bushings by a few thousandths.
A good way to test this is install the end nuts with large washers against the bushings. Tighten the nuts and see if the shaft can be rotated.

The car will need to be aligned after the trailing arms are installed.
Initially re-use the same camber shims which were installed with the old trailing arms.
Eyball alignment is easy on a flat surface, and will be good enough to get you back on the road.

+1.......what Chris said.

Did a thread on it last Summer.

Might want to assess your rear calipers and shocks while you are there.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=12139
Link to a thread by Eric from PMB. If your do not look like these, you can send yours to Eric for the full treatment and have him put in rear bearings at the same time.
Tom

Well after looking through a buncha threads on this topic I've come to the conclusion that not only is this a pita, but it's actually a huge pita!
One that I'd rather put off if I can. Pity as the shafts are already unhooked from the transmission (as I was re-installing it after a Dr. Evil sorting).
That said (and yes I know it's a forty year old car and likely could use new busings), is there a test to determine if they "need" replacement?
I'm assuming some kind of prying excersize while visually inspecting movement?
Thoughts?

Actually it is not as bad as you might think. The CV's should be inspected. It's just a messy job.

To check the bushings....raise the car....grab the wheel at the 3 and 9 oclock position and try and rackthe wheel. If you can rack the wheel back forth then the bushing is gone. You can also see if the mointing nut on the inside of the control arm has moved...if so you definately need to replace it as you will start to oval the hole out resulting in a metal fatigue point and an potential for a bad day.

Thanks for the tip. Car's still airborne so I'll walk out to the garage and check it out
:-)
Pretty much been working the entire fall on things and I'm getting a lil weary. I'd like to actually drive my car again a lil, lol!

Actually 12 and 6 produced movement on the driver side inbound bushing. Ominous as I understand that's the side prone to ovaling. Suffice to say, a bushing job is now required. Will I ever drive the Lil Bastard again?

Here's some shots of the trailing arms my buddy gave me. He said the bushings were relatively new and they look new, I pulled the bearing cover and the bearings look good but I have a few questions.
First-is the rod supposed to turn in the bushings or no? I suspect no and they aren't.
Second-When I gently pulled the bearing, they came out fairly readliy along with the rubber dust cover, what looks like the concave bearing retainer remained behind and naturally beyond that is the race. All normal?
I'm hoping I can get away with repacking (the bearings certainly looked dry with the grease that was on them rather "caked")
Alas, at the end of the day once I dis-assemble my the trailing arms currently on the car, I'm afraid I'll be finding an ovaled ear
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

More images
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

The bearings must be replaced! They are not reusable.

I've heard of that for the hub bearings as removal usually destroys them, right? But re-use isn't possible for this (trailing arm) bearing? They look fine...

Trailing arm bearing is hub bearing!

Ah! I got it confused with item 23 (in the enclosed picture) which they are refering to as the "Constant velocity joint"
Click to view attachment

I see at Pelican these from the maker FAG at 38 bux compared to the SKF 82.25, what's the experience with these products?
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...0Each%2520%2520

Old Thread on Bearings

Those are dust....they are a sealed bearing. You need new ones.

This isn't meant as an endorsement but........


If I were you I would send those trailing arms to Chris Foley, since you are on the Least Coast...and have him do them. Just bite the bullet and do it.

I'd then take the half shafts and clean out the CV's and inspect and if okay repack and regrease....by the time you are done with that Tangerine would be finished with the control arms.

To answer your question about the shaft pivoting....the original pivot shaft were thermobonded to control arms so they relied on the rebound of the bushings. There are many threads on this question. If you intend to run a street car I would replace both bushings which means that the pivot shaft will rotate around the bushing which will remain stationary. I bonded mine to the control shaft with JB Weld and installed two zerk fitting for each bushing in the control arm.

Hope that answers your questions.

Picture of mine when done.....this took me all of last Summer to go through the whole rear suspension......well worth it. I got calipers from PMB all said and done...after they froze on me....long story. Just check everything while you are there. IMHO.

Click to view attachment

You need to do it all.

You'll need a press to press the arm down on the new bearings.

You can check the bushings in the new arms by measuring the top and bottom.

Read up on a string alignment. Very easy.

Yeah I've pretty much figured on that. And now I'm trying to decide wether or not to change out to bronze and zerks. The bushings that are in the current arm are good but I can't say I would want to do this job again and I've been given to understand that bronze will make a noticeable difference.
My biggest concern at this point is finding an ovaled ear upon disassembly

An ovaled ear is not the end all! I was able to repair mine by welding the ovaled section of the hole and redrilling it to round again! It took longer to set up the welder than doing the repair!

Wish I had a welder and 220 out in the garage, but I don't. So if it is ovaled, I have a problem (and a car that won't roll).

I rented a 110v one!

Well there's an idea. Actually I've got a crap load of stuff that needs welding so mebbe I should do that (rent one) and make a day of it :-)

I agree with doing it all while you are there. I did my own a while back. I had a pic of my car driving in Mexico and noticed my left rear was way cambered....fire got the old bushing out. It was so long ago I dont remember how hard it was to replace with the delrin after market ones, but it was not hard. The bearings can be placed by getting some allthread and various nuts and washers. I did it before I had a press. If you have a press, great. If you want it dont for you, you cant go wrong with Eric or Chris Time V $$

I wonder how sumthin like this would perform?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/111046754345?lpid=82

Gota have gas!

Says it is set up for it

Unit Includes




* Welding gun and cable assembly
* Work cable with work clamp
* Gas nozzle
* Gas regulator and hose for MIG welding
* Gasless nozzle for flux-cored welding
* 2 lb. spool .025" SuperArcâ„¢ L-56 solid mild steel MIG wire
* 1 lb. spool .035" Innershield® NR-211-MP flux-cored wire
* .025" contact tips - quantity 3
* .035" contact tips - quantity of 3
* Welding handshield with #10 filter plate and clear glass cover plate
* Chipping hammer/brush

I have a Lincolin 6500, with wire speed and power adjustment and it works well! I think if you practice you can make it work but why not rent!