Hi everyone!
I had a question about the installation of the firewall shift linkage bushing installation.
It seems all the threads indicate boiling the bushing for three minutes prior to install makes the bushing quite flexible enabling easy installation, but I wonder if anyone's tried to do the install using this method with the forward shift linkage still in place, i.e. slipping the bushing over the linkage and then sliding it into the firewall apeture?
Seems like it could be do able thus saving the time required to unbolt the shifter from the floor and open the floor inspection plate to guide the linkage back through the bushing.
I wonder....

Will not work without destroying the bushing. The locking tabs on the bushing need to bend in order to snap in place. With the shift rod in place, they cannot bend.

Have you tried it and destroyed a bushing?
Cause it looks like there's enough room for the locking tab to bend enough for it to snap into place.

Try it...

If there's enough room for the ring to collapse inward, you have the wrong bushing or the wrong shift rod.

The Cap'n

trying to remember. can he just disconnect the shift lever from the rod, slide the rod forward from the hole and put the bushing in? this way he won't disturb his current setup.

Actually, the "current setup" IS the connection at the base of the shifter. I usually unbolt the shifter assembly and move it forward as far as possible, allowing room to replace the bushing. Works like a charm. Another secret revealed ................

The Cap'n

I did. It didn't work. It didn't destroy the bushing though. Likely it would have if I had applied stoopid amounts of force.
Pity. Would have saved time but unbolting the shifter isn't so big a deal. Getting the linkage back through the firewall could be a pain....Alas, inspection cover will facilitate getting it back through.
Not many shortcuts on teeners (sigh)

john, isn't there a middle confection in the rear of the tunnel that comes into play too?

Yes, I've seen alot of threads that recommended this method as it won't foul the shifting setup. No doubt that's what I'll be doing as plan "A" didn't work. Worth a try it though (albeit gently so's not to destroy the bushing).

Yes. The coupler has to be removed from the end of the rod.

The Cap'n

And I've been told using a used cone screw isn't such a good idea so I ordered new ones
Fortunately my old ones came out with no problem

just did the firewall bushing this morning in a 74. the shifter linkage was not connected and after heating the bushing in hot water for several minutes it went in very easy.