Took advantage of mild weather yesterday and took her out for spin - 1st time in a couple months. Noticed exhaust smoke at decel/downshift. Never had this happen before. Valves, rings? I'm not an experienced wrench so I'll be taking her to local Indy. Just looking for feedback regarding potential issues so I can talk somewhat intelligently with shop.

Also, getting into 1st increasingly a challenge - particularly after an hour or so of driving. Is this an indication that a transmission rebuild is in my future? If so, what should I expect to spend - 1000 to 2000?

BTW - it's a 74 2.0 (carbs)

Thanks all

valve guides

You may just need your clutch cable adjusted to help with getting into first gear.

Did it light smoke every single time on downshift? Or just one or two times and then stopped?

Boxer engines almost always blow some smoke on startup especially after sitting for a long time.

I believe it is due to oil puddling on one side of the cylinder when sitting and leaking past the rings.

Even my modern subaru engine does it.
Does it do it EVERY time you fire it up even after being warmed up? Then I might start to worry otherwise no big deal.

Puffed white smoke on every downshift/decel. I ran her for 30 - 45 mins thinking it was happening because she sat so long and it would eventually stop - no such luck.

What is involved assuming its valve guides?

White smoke is different than blue smoke. Blue smoke would be more indicative of a valve guide or other. White smoke sounds more like a tuning issue.

Hmmm - so white smoke is oil burning off?

She always had a tendency to run on the rich side. That said, I never experienced 'continued' smoke...always went away after she warmed up.

White smoke could be bad fuel or water vapors in the fuel and exhaust.

Worry about it in the spring after y have run through two tanks of fuel and have cleaned your carbs as part of the annual maintenance.

Rich

Blue smoke would definitely be oil. White smoke *usually* indicates something else regarding air/fuel mixture (at least in aircooled cars), though I suppose it could be oil smoke that appears to be white instead of blue. If it is indeed white, that might actually indicate a lean condition. Hard for anyone here to diagnose on description alone.

I like Rich's description above. Obviously no water typically running through the motor, but if it's from fuel or other source, you certainly could end up with some white smoke.

Can you give us some more information on your car? Do you know anything about the carbs?

He has not driven it in months, let it sit with today's ethanol.
The new fuels attract more water then before, and they suck when left sitting for me than 30 days.

Now I'm second guessing the color of the dang smoke I'll run her again when I get back in town next week. Carbs (webers...44's I think) we're rebuilt less than 5k miles ago. Engine has 40kish on the clock but not verifiable however mostly orig paint and interior consistent with low mileage. Not the original engine - 2nd owner replaced 1.8 (if memory is correct) with the 2.0 out of a wrecked 74' in early 80's. Installed carbs (and cam I'm told) at that time. 3 owner car not including time at Camp914. Thanks for the feedback gents - doesn't sound as bad as I thought. If it is valves guides - what is involved...engine drop/tear down project? Thanks again and a safe New Years!

It's a simple four-step process:

1- Remove the heads
2- Send them to Len Hoffman
3- Write a large-ish check
4- Re-install the heads


A few of the "details" are left as an exercise for the student.

--DD

Thanks Dave - I think;-)

The guides themselves are not expensive ... it's the labor involved in the whole process.

Any other recommended upgrades/work while in there?

Related: this is likely not my local Indy's area of expertise. I've used Transog in PA in the past and liked them but they're 2 plus hours away. Anyone with recommendations for Baltimore/Washington area shop?

Go to Dr.Evil's transmission clinic he is holding in the Richmond area and fix your transmission yourself for pennies on the dollar

Do you have a place to work on your car, William? Maybe you can set up a BBQ or pizza work day and get some local members to come help you drop the drive train. Remove the heads, then send them to a machine shop.

Set up another day to reassemble and toss it back in

That way, you'll save some $ and get some mechanical experience


try adjusting the clutch cable tension to see if that solves your 1st gear issue. Check the firewall and shift console bushings too.

This guy did some work on my 914, Bob Farmer, 317/894/8185 He is just south of Indy, had a shop full of 911's. Bob