The boots on my steering rack are shot. I thought I could remove the inner (number 18 on the photo) bolt on the tie rod and not remove the other end and preserve the alignment. But the bolt won't come out of the bushing (#5) with out hitting the wall of the steering tunnel. It would seem odd that you would have to remove the steering rack to remove the bolt.

I don't see any other way to get the bolt out but by removing the rack. What am I missing?

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Crank the steering wheel all the way over.

Did that still no go!

I just slid the boot over the tie rod end.
Hardest part was getting the end out of the strut. Just hit harder

Most auto parts stores rent for free the tie rod separator tool. While you are in there your should check the inner tie rod ends. About half of the ones I have checked were soft and pounded out. The new ends are about $65 each.

Bruce

consider it an opportunity to get rid of all the rubber joints and just install 911 turbo tie rods.

When I replace tie rods; I preserve alignment by working one side at a time. Replace one side, test drive and adjust until the steering wheel is centered as it was before you started. Use the same procedure on the other side.
The method is not exact but works for stock tires.

If the rubber on the inner bushings is shot and you have to replace them, it's doubtful your toe settings will be even close even if you're able to get the bolt out. In which case, you'd need to have it realigned. In which case, it's time to spring for the extra few bucks and install turbo tie rods After you save the tires from wearing out prematurely, you'll have saved that money by getting it aligned and installing new parts anyway.

they can be removed and re-installed without changing your settings.
Both sides for that matter...

I found it much easier to remove the outer tie rod end with a good solid hit from a hammer on the outer flat spot of the steering arm, it is designed for that.
Its a ten minute deal to remove the nut, hit the arm till the tie rod falls out, and replace the boot.

That inner nut/bolt can get a challenge...but it can be removed by turning the wheel all the way in one direction or the other to get the bolt out all the way.

Rich

You probably will resist this advice....I would yank the entire steering rack out, disassemble it, give it a good cleaning, re-grease it and reset the friction plates. It's not that hard to do.

If the rubber is shot, clearly the road dust and debris has been up on the shafts creating a nice abrasive grit and now drug into the bushings. This is your opportunity to clean it and not just cover it. It will feel noticeably better if you do this.

"While you are there" might include turbo ends, ball joints and tie rod ends if they are worn (and most likely are) and front A arm bushings.

When finished and aligned, your steering will be much tighter and response faster.

If these parts have never been changed, there is a 90% chance it will need all of it just by its 40 year age.

Fun project!

Yep, all that is on the plate! I have a new set of control arms that have the sway bar tabs for my sway bar that will be installed. Planned on all new goodies when I install it but I wanted to do something in the short term.

If the bolt is hitting the chassis, loosen the tie rod bushing a quarter turn and remove the bolt.