What tools would be needed to remove the trailing arms (specifically the socket required for the castle nut, and the wrenches for the trailing arm shafts)?
Fairly certain I don't have any of those sockets/wrenches so I'll need to make a few tool purchases for this project, but sets in those sizes are kinda pricey so I'd rather buy the individual tools.
And as I remember from Erics vid, a 1 and 13/16's" socket is needed to make the special tool for the hub install.
Anyone know the socket and wrench sizes offhand?
Tanxs!
Full Version: Wrench/socket size question for trailing arm removal
30mm on the castle nuts and 22mm on the pivot shaft nuts. You are best off with a six point impact socket to remove the castle nut. If you do not have an impact you can use a short chain attached to a lug bolt on the hub and the other end to a caliper bolt hole. Use plenty of rust penetrent. if badly rusted they can be near impossible to remove without cutting. Heat helps too. Good luck
Autozone has a nice electric impact driver for pretty cheap. i've found it walks the castle nuts off nicely after some penetrant work time. tap the side of the nut after spraying and let it soak for a while. i use the Autozone tool for lug bolt removal.
QUOTE(bdstone914 @ Jan 4 2014, 12:16 PM) 
30mm on the castle nuts and 22mm on the pivot shaft nuts. You are best off with a six point impact socket to remove the castle nut. If you do not have an impact you can use a short chain attached to a lug bolt on the hub and the other end to a caliper bolt hole. Use plenty of rust penetrent. if badly rusted they can be near impossible to remove without cutting. Heat helps too. Good luck
The chain idea is a good one! I was gonna break it loose with the car on the ground but since it's already up (I was re-installing my transmission) I'll try the chain idea first.
Check out the "Home made tools thread" there is a simple tool posted there to accomplish this task, and with due respect, has significantly less chance for injury or damage than attach a chain to another movable area on the car.
QUOTE(914werke @ Jan 4 2014, 02:18 PM)
Check out the "Home made tools thread" there is a simple tool posted there to accomplish this task, and with due respect, has significantly less chance for injury or damage than attach a chain to another movable area on the car.
I did a search on that here and in classics with no hit. Link please?
A chain going from the caliper bolt hole (part of the trailing arm) to a lug bolt hole is a great idea to deal with removal of the castle nut when the whole trailing arm is already off the vehicle. I have a few like that from a wreck.
Yep......Bruce knows what's goin' on
QUOTE(r_towle @ Jan 4 2014, 07:51 PM)
A chain going from the caliper bolt hole (part of the trailing arm) to a lug bolt hole is a great idea to deal with removal of the castle nut when the whole trailing arm is already off the vehicle. I have a few like that from a wreck.
It can also be done with the caliper on using a longer chain. One end of the chain is looped completely around the trailing arm and the last loop of the chain bolted to the chain. The other end is still bolted to the hub using a lug bolt. Not sure why the other member thinks it would not be safe. Gives a very solid hold on the hub that is needed to break loose the castle nut.
Usually use a two foot breaker bar and two foot extension bar.
Bruce
a 4' breaker bar. 
oh boy!!! don't forget the spendy high strength socket. your standard craftsmen might not handle the load. buying the mutli purpose electric tool seems like an easier solution. 
oh boy!!! don't forget the spendy high strength socket. your standard craftsmen might not handle the load. buying the mutli purpose electric tool seems like an easier solution.
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