Well, pulled the trans yesterday. Went very well, thanks for the pointers.

Hi-evah, something is just not right with the clutch assembly. When I first mated the trans back to the engine in august, I noticed there was no free travel in the clutch fork. I even pulled it back apart to male sure noting had gotten caught. Once put back together, I had to tighten the clutch cable to get the fork off the back of the opening int the bell housing, or the fork would chatter against the housing with the clutch out.

Well when I took it apart yesterday, I find that the top of the pressure plate is hitting the fork, which ground a groove into the fork.

Here you can see the part of the pressure plate that is hitting the fork. It it tough to tell in this lower res. picture, but the bottom of the plate in the picture is much more worn from the contact, and the top edge doesn't appear to have been touching the fork at all.

I have heard talk about using washers as spacers on the pivot ball, but I'm not sure how that would improve my situation. It seems to me I need more clearance, not less. After I took off the TO today I noticed that the cover on the main shaft seal is held with bolts instead of nuts on a stud(might even be nuts welded onto a stud). I wondered if maybe that is where I am loosing the 1/8 of an inch or so that I need.


Lastly, I am going to go ahead and replace the clutch, since it chattered anyway, and now seeing the way the pressure plate was unevenly contacting the fork, I suspect it is warped. What are these clutch parts, and where do I get new ones (besides from Renegade)? The pressure plate has "KEP" on it, but no numbers. How do I know what to ask for (as far as the plate, disk and T.O.)?

Send the pressure plate and disc back to Kennedy engineering in Sothern CAL. They kinda like to see how their products performed.
They will rebuild it and they may even have some pointers on why it failed.
This will save you some money and give you some expert knowledge and recomendations.
Good luck, v8 clutch stuff is sometimes tough.

George

Do not add washers behind that pivot ball, remove the two that are under there. If they are not already gone. If they are, then you have something else that is a problem. Once I removed the two washers from there, I had no more problems with mine.

Washers already gone Scott

George, even if the pressure plate hadn't warped (which I don't thnik was probably Kennedy's fault) I would still have the clearance problem with the fork. Any ideas?

Chris,
Do you have a fax available? I can send you the official KEP
"How to properly set up a Kennedy 9" clutch into a 914, 912, & '66-'69 911 Porsche transaxle."
If not, here are the highlights:
#2... Replace the two studs for the guide tube with the two small bolts provided... This will allow for more release bearing travel. Use a locktite and tighten securely.

#3. Unthread the pivot ball...remove washer from under it, this will also allow more bearing release travel...

#4... the end of the clutch release lever on the transaxle should have almost a half of an inch travel to allow for future adjustment. This freeplay will reduce as the disc wears.

#5. If the freeplay exceeds a half inch or is under a quarter inch, you may bend the release arm, but usually it is not necessary. It is made of malleable iron so it can be bent hot or cold...

#7 The porsche clutch cable needs to have at least 1 1/2" of travel...
Hope this helps,
Rich

RICH!!!!!!
I think I get some type of award for drawing the worlds oldest newbie into posting once again.

Bud if you could fax that to me at the office that would be great. (815)962-2755

BTW, bend the fork, huh? With the extra force required to move that bigger plate, boy that seems like asking for trouble

Happy new year

When I installed the KEP stage III clutch on my V8 I had to slightly bend the fork. My bearing press made that an easy task. A little bit goes a long way, no need to overdo it. Before the adjustment I had some inteference between the fork and pressure plate.

HERE YA GO CHRIS!

Hey Rich! Rich Rich Rich Rich Rich Rich Rich Rich

Yep,
Still a newbie! Oh well...
Chris, faxing now as I peck away.
Happy New Year to All!
Sell the MGA yet, Rick?

47 degrees in Mid Michigan yesterday- walked in barn, uncovered the car, connected the battery and fired it up just so I could remember why I try so hard to be the best lurker on the site!

Rich Great info on the clutch adjustment

Bob

Thanks Rich, You Rock.

Got the fax. Full of very helpful info I never knew. I'll be in touch with Kennedy about a new plate & disk as well as the special bolts for the tube.

Thanks for everybody's help, as usual.

Dugging this out of the dark recesses of the post history. Chris, What clutch did you end up using and how is it working? I will be ordering a clutch this week. I only have time to do this once.

Any part #'s?

KEP has very good customer service. They seem to understand that by keeping the customer happy (they actually screw up once in a while...they are people too) they will always have plenty of business. Perhaps your clutch package is simply worn out and it is no ones's fault. I'm not sure of the mileage you have on those parts. I would strongly recommend you ask KEP what they can do for you and you might be surprised (pleasantly) at what you get back from them. I have alot of experience with them and I can say they aim to please.

Bill

Hey Rick,

I just answered your PM, but for the viewers at home:

I ended up with a KEP stage II clutch and P plate, and KEP's TO for the package. I bent the TO fork too, but probably didn't need to, since the thin head bolts from KEP for the guide tube probably gave me the needed extra 1 or 2mm of clearance.

Thanks, Got the PM. I'm calling this week.