I've got a totally restored suspension bolted up to the car and everything is just mounted with with a snug twist of the wrench. Enough so it stays together when I roll the car around. Engine isn't in yet, so the car isn't carrying all the weight. What do I do at this point? Way too early for an alignment. Do I just tighten everything where it's at or is there a smarter way to get it close to right? I figure a full alignment will be in order after the car is actually able to go down the road, but will the initial mileage be with a car that's go wheels pulling in different directions?

I use four jack stands, two pieces of string, and a tape measure to setup and align a car. I also use two 8 foot pieces of strapping.
Also a level and angle finder for camber.

Do you want to try this method?
It's super accurate.

You'll need the full weight of the entire car with gas, on the wheels before getting an accurate alignment. . once you get everything assembled to that point, you can get it 'eyeball close' with a long 2x4 across the sides of the front and rear rims to set F+R toe generally close. . hopefully you marked the shim pack thickness that you removed from the rear when you took it apart. . . If not, use a level to get the rims vertical to start. .

The front and rear track are different, so you just need to understand the process and it's not to hard to do...and you don't need to pay a shop.

Might want to get it close now, then once you put the motor in place it's not so far off.
I would not even bother with the camber until you have the motor in place.
Just get the toe right for now.
Rich

Very interested in how this is done

Thanks

David

Here is how I learned to use string and jackstands.

It isn't difficult and offers a high level of satisfaction that you did it yourself

double post, please delete

even before a crude alignment, don't put it on its' wheels until you've installed rear stub axles

another double post please delete