I've seen other folks projects,, mine is pretty close now so I thought I'd share it.

Oops,, it's right on my phone. Can a nice administration fix my boo boo

I am modifying the contacts within the motor to open the headlights only partially.(some folks call this sleepy eyed) When the lights are off,, you would never notice they're there. The projectors are bi-xenon with a solenoid.

Cool, can't wait to see the finish project.

Go and look at these. Really Nice.
http://986forum.com/forums/diy-project-gui...-finish-12.html


Van914

I keep thinking that putting them in the front marker lights would be the hot setup. I know someone did it at one point...or was working on it anyway. There could be a lot of awesomeness in a setup that used those.

I think the guys name was felix? neo914,,,,
I like the idea of turning off the lights and it looks stock.

Felix is one and I am the other adventurous one. If you are going with true Bi Xenon it takes a bit of " engineering".

1) The lamp module HAS to be sealed or at least very thoroughly shrouded and vented. The bulb cannot be exposed to the elements. If the bulb is exposed to cold shock while hot it will explode like a grenade. If the bulb gets wet while on it will grenade. If the bulb gets wet and pops you might actually get lightning inside your pop up retractor to the tune of many thousand of volts if the filament does not break. Think Tesla coil! Yes those ballasts pack a whallop, that's wire the feed leads are usually covered in a stainless braid to eliminate electrical leakage.

2) All modern vehicles with ballasted Bi Xenon are a lamp module inside a lens fixture mounted inside another lens housing. That is how they stay alive.

3) You can go with a 55w H bulb/ shutter module that does not use ballast. Element exposure is still the issue that kills bulbs.

4) Building a sealed housing is easy. Space is the problem as they tend to be fairly deep by the time you are done.

5) Aiming the lamp module. You will need some kind of stand off or pivots that allow movement for vertical and horizontal adjustment. You then have to be able to access those adjustments to make life easy. On the exemplar above you could stack washers or shims behind the module at its mounting screws to aim but that will be a pain and very time consuming to get it right. Adding the pop retractor height limit will have to be consistent every time it is raised. You could also use the adjustments built into the factory SAE bulb retainer since you already have the module mounted to it.

6) For true Bi Xenon I think the turn signal openings in the fender are still the most logical place. The lamps need to mounted as high as possible in the opening so the tire does not hit the back of the lamp when the wheel is turned. Mounted high up they will also meet height laws for lighting regulations. Another issue with the fender location is they are very narrow. Getting a compact enough unit in there is the other challenge.

Food for thought.