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PanelBilly
I recall seeing a bearing that replaces the nylon bushing ring. I thought it was a Patrick part, but don't see it in their parts list. I remember that the shaft needed to be modified to fit too. Anybody know what I'm describing?
Kansas 914
QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Jan 10 2014, 09:26 AM) *

I recall seeing a bearing that replaces the nylon bushing ring. I thought it was a Patrick part, but don't see it in their parts list. I remember that the shaft needed to be modified to fit too. Anybody know what I'm describing?

Do you mean at the firewall? If so Chris at Tangerine has that one.

Here is a link: http://www.tangerineracing.com/transmission.htm
t collins
Search bushing
Click to view attachment
t collins
No modification necessary with CFR bushing
TheCabinetmaker
I could be wrong, but that diagram from patrick looks like a tail shift.
worn
QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Jan 10 2014, 08:26 AM) *

I recall seeing a bearing that replaces the nylon bushing ring. I thought it was a Patrick part, but don't see it in their parts list. I remember that the shaft needed to be modified to fit too. Anybody know what I'm describing?


You arent the only one
Click to view attachment

I started with an $8 purchase and then spent about 5 hours on it if I really count. I had to open the center hole from 3/4 inch to fit the sahft. While I was at it I shaved off half the cast iron.
Click to view attachment
Spherical ball bearing. Should last.
Here it is on the car. I welded in nuts to attach. Probably more work than most people want and the Patrick model is worth the money. I just like to make things.
PanelBilly
I like the one from Tangerine. Uses the stock rod and not too much $
t collins
That was my choice also biggrin.gif
Click to view attachment
euro911
I went with Chris' bearing as well. It's been noted that in some applications moving the entire drive train rearward (1/8"~1/4") may be required to allow the rear shift rod full forward travel.

I removed approx 3/8" from the back side of the bearing housing to get full travel ...

Click to view attachment

Kansas 914
QUOTE(euro911 @ Jan 10 2014, 05:43 PM) *

I went with Chris' bearing as well. It's been noted that in some applications moving the entire drive train rearward (1/8"~1/4") may be required to allow the rear shift rod full forward travel.

I removed approx 3/8" from the back side of the bearing housing to get full travel ...

Click to view attachment

Mark,

Do you remember the finished diameter after the process?
moldygreg
QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Jan 10 2014, 02:29 PM) *

I like the one from Tangerine. Uses the stock rod and not too much $


I shot you a PM. We're in West Seattle and have one from Tangerine (http://www.tangerineracing.com/index_htm_files/1041.jpg) that we did not end up using on my son's car. I know what it's like working on projects over the weekend and not having what you need!

Cheers-
Greg
worn
QUOTE(t collins @ Jan 10 2014, 04:25 PM) *

That was my choice also biggrin.gif
Click to view attachment

My advice as well. Looks good.
euro911
QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Jan 10 2014, 05:51 PM) *
Mark,

Do you remember the finished diameter after the process?
Just a couple mm inside the mounting hole pattern.

The issue I ran into was that a PO riveted in an early shift pivot assembly from an early car (and installed a tail shift trans) into a '75 screwy.gif

If that weren't bad enough, it was crooked and placed a lot of tension on the shift rod going through the plastic bushing

Click to view attachment


When I removed the assembly, I found that the original hole had been enlarged and there was nothing to mount the bearing to

Click to view attachment


The quick fix: fabricated an aluminum plate to fit the recess

Click to view attachment


However, the plate took took up more than 1/8" of free space, causing the shift knuckle to hit the bearing on forward movement, not allowing full engagement into 1st, 3rd or 5th. Machining the bearing housing and boring a hole in the plate to match that smaller diameter allowed me to recess the bearing to gain back the required head room

Click to view attachment

As you can see, I am not a CW laugh.gif
Kansas 914
QUOTE(euro911 @ Jan 11 2014, 03:01 AM) *

QUOTE(Kansas 914 @ Jan 10 2014, 05:51 PM) *
Mark,

Do you remember the finished diameter after the process?
Just a couple mm inside the mounting hole pattern.

The issue I ran into was that a PO riveted in an early shift pivot assembly from an early car (and installed a tail shift trans) into a '75 screwy.gif

If that weren't bad enough, it was crooked and placed a lot of tension on the shift rod going through the plastic bushing



When I removed the assembly, I found that the original hole had been enlarged and there was nothing to mount the bearing to



The quick fix: fabricated an aluminum plate to fit the recess



However, the plate took took up more than 1/8" of free space, causing the shift knuckle to hit the bearing on forward movement, not allowing full engagement into 1st, 3rd or 5th. Machining the bearing housing and boring a hole in the plate to match that smaller diameter allowed me to recess the bearing to gain back the required head room


As you can see, I am not a CW laugh.gif

Thanks for the details. Well written and documented.
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