QUOTE(eyesright @ Jan 13 2014, 07:27 AM)
I bought VDO gauges because they were inexpensive, looked good, and I would be looking for relative temperature values. For competition one might want absolute values.
My oil temp gauge reads the same as IR temps on the sump and oil filter just after shut down. So that one checks out. The oil pressure reads what it should on a normal engine so I assume its accurate without verifying it on a mechanical gauge.
CHT varies around 325 in this cold weather and 350 in the hot summer weather. After shutdown I pull the #3 plug wire and get several readings aroung the spark plug. It usually is nowhere near the CHT readings by more than 50 degrees, lets say about 250 degrees, but it really varies. I suspect you need a perpendicular flat surface to get a really accurate IR reading and flashing that IR around blind off the cooling fins may in itself not be accurate. A reading off the steel valve covers also shows a cooler temp but they are insulated from the heads by a cork gasket. And I suspect the exhaust side of the head will be a different temp than the intake side...
Given all that, I assumed my HAM rebuilt heads are performing flawlessly for my normal driving and take the CHT reading as a relative value. The indicated temp will vary a little depending on the terrain and how hard I drive but regardless of the number, if it ever starts to point way off from where it usually is I'll start looking for a cause.
That's my story...
PS Even tho my thermostat works, the oil takes forever to get even close to 180 degreees in cold - below 40 - weather. In the 100 degree summer weather it slowly climbs up to 240. Gosh, the things we didn't worry about with just a green and a red idiot light!
Before you start your car for the day and the weather is cool about 50-60deg does you gage read >100deg? Mine is half way between the 100 and 150 mark when connected to the sensor before I even start the car on a cold morning.