At some point I'll be modifying my dash to put my additional gauges in plain view with the rest of them, as Chris Foley suggested to me some time ago. While I'm at it, I'd like to put an additional oil pressure idiot light up top with a modern LED bulb to get the driver's attention (even though at race pace, by the time it come's on the damage will probably already have been done). Is it simple enough to just piggy-back onto the existing oil pressure light in the fuel gauge, splicing into those wires?

Ideally it would be nice to do the same thing with the alternator light, but given the fact that it's part of the charging system, I don't think I don't think I can do that, correct?

george, let me see if i can dig up some pictures of my dash. i am using super bright white led's for my alt, oil press, fan, and cht. they are very bright and really get your attn. even when the sun is shining thru the back window onto the dash. be back in a minute.

found it. this is a picture of just the pod. i can snap a shot of the whole dash for you tomorrow if you want.

Thanks Doug - that came out really nice! So since you have aftermarket gauges, you just used the original wiring for the existing idiot lights? I'm intending to leave the original gauges in, retaining the alt and oil pressure lights, but adding two more at the very top of the dash. Does that make sense?

yes the og wiring for the idiot light. for the alternator i left the original alt bulb and holder and wired the LED in parallel with the old bulb and its holder. i think i might have soldered a ground wire to old bulb holder to complete the circuit. make sense? i did wrap the old bulb in black tape so it wouldnt illuminate the back of the pod.

Why not wire the oil pressure idiot light to cut power to the coil?

You would need to add a bypass to supply power during starting, just a thought

the off roaders us a horn or door bell buzzer (in addition to the idiot light) mounted under the drivers seat. in a race you may not be able to hear it but you can feel it.

Could use a kill or momentary switch for starting, this diagram assumes there is enough power to energize the relay coil and run the idiot light.

If there isn't you could just use the N/O contact to power the idiot light and keep the common as 12V supply (spliced into from supply to coil) since your coil will be de-energized anyway. (attach idiot light splice to N/O contact and just route the coil out through the switch to the nearest ground)

Best part is if it fails on the road you can just plug the coil supply directly to the coil like it is now (if you leave enough length)

Click to view attachment

Personally IMO you need something like a pro light mounted on top of the pod right in your field of view.

That was the plan. Just needed to know if I could piggyback off of the original wires.

No problem, the oil sensor is just a plain old switch, no magic.

george,

you can buy those warning switches in different psi ratings too...
on my old 4 cylinder race car I mounted a 15psi switch in addition to the stock warning light.

If I went out onto the track and forgot to turn the accusump on...
right away even before getting the tires warm, I would see the 2ndary warning light telling me that I was running between the stock 3pounds and the aftermarket 15pounds in even the first corner....


I felt like having a pre-warning... warning light might give me an extra moment of warning

Use a big light if you don't want to miss it.
On my dash the amber led is a cooling system failure alarm.
I think I got my lights from AW Direct, a truck & wrecker supply co.

I added a LED trailer light from West Marine in the center where the ash tray used to be. I think they are 12$ or something and supper bright. I just wired it to existing warning light wire.

I like Chris's set up right in the field of view but I did not want to eliminate the stock gauges just yet. I like looking at them.

These LED bulbs are supper bright probably better that they are not in direct line of sight.