Jeez, I'm searching and searchin and finding toooo much info.
I seem to recall a thread (Eric?) and within the discussion was the importance (with photo's as I recall) of "where" the zerks are placed (and I think the drill and tap size as well)
Errrrr
Help?
David

Hard to describe.

I'll try to grab some pics tomorrow but until then, here goes.

On the tall side (outer mount side); place the zerk .975" down from the lip and centered inside, facing the hub.

On the short end (inside); same .975" off at a 45 deg angle off the bottom side (by the tabs).

If you put them in the wrong spot, the zerk will hit the mount and break off.

Drill size? Depends on the zerk. Small are 5x.8 and the normal metric are 6x1. Some are Merikan sizes as well...

Here you go-

Poly Bushing and Zerk Install

Eric can you make this a classic?

You win a prize! That was exactly the thread I was trying to re-find
Should be a classic. I nominate!
Thanks Bulitt!

I noticed the last couple days when getting out of my car I can hear the bushings squeek. What bushings would anyone suggest to replace for street use, or other fixes to eliminate the noise. TIA!

Rubber. Elephant rubber is about the only source right now.

If you go with the poly, make sure it's the hardest poly as most of the poly bushings are soft and distort. Also, of you go poly make sure you install zerks as David here is doing.

For street use, I "highly" recommend the Elephant rubber bushings.

Thanks Eric. Do you have a recommended supplier? Do you sell they?

I know Eric carries these . when we did the group buy i had him install my new pivot shafts with new bushings, along with installation of the bearings and hubs. saved me a lot of time and trouble since i dont have a press. He can do all of that for you!

I found some on Eric's website. Thanks!

Here are pictures of mine, PMB installed

Excellant feedback on this topic.
Whatre' we likin for lubrication via the zerks on hard poly?

Ordered the hone from McMaster at 6:30 last night...and it showed up about an hour ago!

You have to be careful with that inside fitting, if the arm goes too low (eg remove bottom shock bolt) it will snap off. Don't ask how I know this.

name='HalfMoon' date='Jan 29 2014, 12:40 PM' post='1990217']
Excellant feedback on this topic.
Whatre' we likin for lubrication via the zerks on hard poly?
[/quote]

I am using this at Eric's suggestion with no squeeks or ill effects;

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/161...ved=0CFgQ8wIwAA

Could you expand on this please? Perhaps a picture?
In looking at the thread that Bullit so kindly posted and Eric's advice within it (ie-zerk placement correction) I want to make sure I'm understanding the position placement correctly. I'm assuming within that thread where Eric has advised the correct placement is in fact what your talking about.
D
Addedum-I think I see what your talking about and what your meaning was. So your saying, if and when you remove the lower shock bolt, the action of the trailing arm then dropping down can rotate the arm enough to snap the inside zerk fitting. Correct?
Is there another placement point that could avoid this potential problem?

[quote name='914_teener' date='Jan 29 2014, 08:26 PM' post='1990329']
name='HalfMoon' date='Jan 29 2014, 12:40 PM' post='1990217']
Excellant feedback on this topic.
Whatre' we likin for lubrication via the zerks on hard poly?
[/quote]

I am using this at Eric's suggestion with no squeeks or ill effects;

https://www.google.com/shopping/product/161...ved=0CFgQ8wIwAA
[/quote]

If Eric suggested it then I'll go with that as well :-)
Thanks buddy,
D

Just had to read this to find out what a zerk is........

Click to view attachment


Exactly! If the trailing arm is unbolted from the shock and lowered too much then the narutal movement of the arm will snap off the zerk fitting. I am not sure that there is a better place to put the zerk on the inboard side, so make sure if you lower the trailing arm you watch the fittting and make sure it doesn't make contact with the body. It doesn't take much to snap it off, just the weight of the arm is more then enough.

Sage advice
Thanks for dat buddy!

No prob. Hope some one else doesn't have to learn the hard way

http://www.elephantracing.com/documents/91...trailingarm.pdf

The Elephant Poly Bronze are really great.
I just finished some work on my trailing arms and had to be careful not to let the pivot shafts slide out when carrying them to my work bench.

The bushings have great free play and do not bind.

All true, but to rich for my blood

The PDF shows the exact location of the grease fittings.

Yep, pretty much where the location is in pictures previously posted in this thread. Problem is the inner location can be clipiied off when removing the trailing arm unless one is very careful. Must take a look and see if the inner can be mounted topside the trailing arm and still easy accessable....

Anyone done this on the front too?

I ordered my bushing and I am thinking about finally getting around to installing, but then remembered I wanted to add the zerk while I am at it. Where is everyone getting the zerk fittings to put into the trailing arm?

I got mine at the local auto parts store. 6mm as I remember. Cheap. Less than 5 bux for all four of them.

Thanks! Hope the store down the street has them.

Bumping an old thread.

Anyone have the Elephant racing rubber bushing tools?


Seems crazy that you have to buy a set of tools with each set of rubber bushings you buy?

I talked to them on the phone and they said I need the tools to install correctly.....even with a press.