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MrHyde
So I finally got the 914 on the road last fall and did a few shakedown runs in it.
There is a hit list of jobs I want to get done to the car still and a few things that I wanted to tweak. I have the rear suspension taken off again to replace the poly graphite bushings with rubber ones. Wasn't impressed with them. One of my rear rotors was warped a bit making it difficult to adjust the brakes. Since they were right on the minimum thickness as well it was time to replace. I absentmindedly left one of the e-brake cables laying on the header pipe when I did my engine run up and melted the cable, so those are getting replaced too. Carburators also need a good clean out and check up. I basically just put them on and tried to fire up the car. Just got lucky that they were still working well. :-)
MrHyde
Rear suspension back off again… Everything comes apart SOOOO much easier when its not rusted solid !!!
MrHyde
Itallian Weber 44's

saigon71
I bet it was a glorious couple of weeks driving that thing before winter set in! beerchug.gif

I was able to sneak about 2500 miles in on mine before the salt hit the road last year.

Good luck with your projects...I have a rather lengthy list myself. dry.gif

ChrisFoley
QUOTE(MrHyde @ Feb 6 2014, 08:44 AM) *

Itallian Weber 44's

Mike,
Why didn't you just turn the bracket around instead of installing those washers?
ThePaintedMan
QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Feb 6 2014, 03:50 PM) *

Mike,
Why didn't you just turn the bracket around instead of installing those washers?


I noticed that too. In Chris's directions I believe it mentions that they may need to be flipped depending on application. I still have a small offset to mine, but I think that's because I'm missing a spacer on the throttle shaft. I also believe this is the real reason why I've had problems synching mine. Chris's kit is excellent, but as it is a quality fit, the installer needs to be meticulous in making sure everything lines up correctly.
MrHyde
I had it flipped over before as well and it didn't line up that way either.. This was a .. best of worst case… Also my throttle wheels are at the back of the engine, not front. So I had to tinker a bit to get everything to work, but the master and slave cables overlap which doesn't look right but it works.. I think its because of the throttle linkage on the carbs being on the back of the engine..
But I've taken it all apart and I thinks I'll have to get the instructions from Chris again as I can't remember angle the wheel goes on at.
MrHyde
Got a Pacage from PMB yesterday ! :-)
New Elephant racing Rubber bushings into the swing arms.
MrHyde
All done.. Took a couple hours with a bar clamp and some dish soap.
Ferg
smilie_pokal.gif
r_towle
QUOTE(MrHyde @ Feb 6 2014, 04:51 PM) *

I had it flipped over before as well and it didn't line up that way either.. This was a .. best of worst case… Also my throttle wheels are at the back of the engine, not front. So I had to tinker a bit to get everything to work, but the master and slave cables overlap which doesn't look right but it works.. I think its because of the throttle linkage on the carbs being on the back of the engine..
But I've taken it all apart and I thinks I'll have to get the instructions from Chris again as I can't remember angle the wheel goes on at.

Put the idle arm on the other side of the carb, not behind the pulley, that will eliminate a few of those washers, or might make the bracket fit the other way.

Rich
ChrisFoley
QUOTE(MrHyde @ Feb 6 2014, 04:51 PM) *

... but the master and slave cables overlap which doesn't look right but it works..

I never thought about it but that's what happens if you put the master pulley on that corner of the engine.
If the master pulley was at cylinder one the cables would not overlap.
MrHyde
Another day out in the barn.
Put the spring perches up on the rear shocks 2 notches… Now the springs just compress about half an inch and don't flop around when extended. That and I'm hoping it will pick the cars ass off the ground a bit so that I won't bottom out on stuff.
MrHyde
Made a faceplate up for the console. Still sort in out how I'm going to mount an amp inside of the console too.. I think I may do this again though.. Temp and Volt gauge trim rings are just brely touching.. I'm not sure If I can move them out much more to the edge though..
MrHyde
Just a random shot of the pretty exhaust Tangerine racing headers.
MrHyde
Finished off the console and cleaned it up. 4 gauges, 1 clock and an amp. Recovered the floor of the console where the shifter goes and covered the gauge panel.
MrHyde
duplicate
MikeM
Nice work!!!
MrHyde
Rebuilt the carbs today. Used the Pinesol trick and it worked GREAT !
MrHyde
All pretty now.

Carb settings are:

Air correction 200
Idle jet 50
Emulsion F11
Venturi 36
Main 145

I had 150 mains in it but thought I'd try the 145's as it was suggested to me that 150's may be a tad rich.. I'll see how it goes on the Lambda sensor and I can swap back n forth to see the difference.
Mark Henry
QUOTE(MrHyde @ Feb 17 2014, 08:08 PM) *

Rebuilt the carbs today. Used the Pinesol trick and it worked GREAT !

shades.gif

Look shiny and I bet they smell pine fresh.
MrHyde
Ya.. I have a smaller shop than you. I think I was getting high off the pinesol fumes.. I definitely don't want to smell that stuff for a while.. tongue.gif
MrHyde
Put the rear suspension back on today, along with the new brake rotors and e-brake cables. Getting closer to spring so I gotta get movin….
MrHyde
Got er' running today. Still seems a bit lumpy but that may still be the old gas running through ( yes I did throw some stabil in last fall )

Carbs are nice n clean. Mixture screws are at 1 1/4 turns out and idle stops are at a 1 1/2 turns ish. Timing had to be set to 30deg to stop a backfire around 3000rpm and make it stop smelling rich. Thats a bit on the high side for a mallory with a petronix but seems to be running well.

Almost done putting the interior back in with the new console face..
Clock works ! :-) along with the CHT and pressure gauge. Temp and volt gauge needles just pop up to low when I turn the key on but don't read.

On the volt gauge I've checked the voltage on the wires going into the gauge and it reads 12 (ish) so I think maybe the gauge itself is NG.
I checked the wire from the temp sender to the gauge and its got good conductivity but I'm just not getting a reading on the gauge, so maybe the temp gauge is pooched too.
saigon71
QUOTE(MrHyde @ Mar 30 2014, 08:21 PM) *

Got er' running today. Still seems a bit lumpy but that may still be the old gas running through ( yes I did throw some stabil in last fall )

Carbs are nice n clean. Mixture screws are at 1 1/4 turns out and idle stops are at a 1 1/2 turns ish. Timing had to be set to 30deg to stop a backfire around 3000rpm and make it stop smelling rich. Thats a bit on the high side for a mallory with a petronix but seems to be running well.

Almost done putting the interior back in with the new console face..
Clock works ! :-) along with the CHT and pressure gauge. Temp and volt gauge needles just pop up to low when I turn the key on but don't read.

On the volt gauge I've checked the voltage on the wires going into the gauge and it reads 12 (ish) so I think maybe the gauge itself is NG.
I checked the wire from the temp sender to the gauge and its got good conductivity but I'm just not getting a reading on the gauge, so maybe the temp gauge is pooched too.


Disconnect the wire from the temp gauge in the engine bay. Then ground the wire connected to the gauge with the ignition on. If the gauge pegs at full hot, the gauge is OK. My sender ended up being the culprit.

Are you driving it to Hershey? poke.gif
MrHyde
I'll try that trick with the temp gauge this weekend.

Probably not going to Hershey this year as it falls on Easter.. Maybe next year. !
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