I haven't seen this car in person but the body has some rust. The "hell hole" has been repaired. But I haven't done body work before. I'm a decent mechanic but have never done body work. (although I have drywalled the basement).

Looking over the forum, I know there are other areas to look for rust, but how difficult is this to repair?

Thanks for any help you can give

I have a small rust spot on the passenger side also. The only rust I have on mine, but will just have a body shop do it.

Based just on those two pics, if u can't weld find another car

I've seen better cars that were free...

It's an iceberg.

Keep looking...

Or is this the Titanic? It was listed as $2500 but they completely rebuilt the engine. I have my eye on another car. Thanks for the advice (although I am interested in learning to weld, but don't want to practice on the body.

Looks like you have rust at the lower end of the door jamb also, I would suspect the other sail panel is bad also, and there's likely a whole lot of rust hiding elsewhere.

So if it your not afraid of stuff like this, then go for it, but otherwise plenty of decent cars to be had if you look around for a while.

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Yeah...let someone else "save" that one.

Yep this is the clincher right here...

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It's not really "natural" for rust to form there. It came from the inside out. See how its lumpy under the vinyl? That's more rust bubbles. Some people can fix that easily but it can be very frustrating for a first-time build. You can expect it to be much worse under there.

No, you'd be the Titanic if you hit on this one. There is so much rust under the surface that the car is being held together by habit.

I once visited the castle where the Pythons yelled "run away, run away!" This is the advice you are getting and it is good.
But how many among them (the advisors, not Monty Python)did not gain their wisdom by diving into a car like that? I know I have a whole set of tools and lots and lots of scrap iron that I would not have if I hadn't decide to save a TR6 and an MGB that should have been scrap. The MGB floors were swept up in little chunklets and placed in grocery bags for the trash. Doing the same on a teener. I hope they land in good hands but at least they didn't hit the ship to China as a crushed cube on my watch. This is what you would be getting into.
Still if you are car shopping, you can surely do better. Or buy it for the drive train and find another. Problem is there are a lot more rusted cars with solid motors than the other way round.

This would be a much better start with a little rust repair in the trunk. Not a difficult fix and this car is priced right! http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=230106

Actually it is very common for a 914 to rust there. Porsche/VW put foam in the corners to prevent rust. Well, it did just the opposite. The foam sucked up water, and held it against the mild steel sheet metal, and rust resulted.

Use carburetor cleaner to remove the foam. Cut out the rusted area, and weld in a new section.

The most common places that cause a 914 to be terminal is under the battery tray, the hell hole and the suspension console.

Oh I'm aware it's common for a 914 to rust there. Seen it dozens of times here in the midwest since the salted roads in the winter accelerated the problem. That's the first spot I check when looking at a car in Chicago since flippers had a tendency to slap a chunk of bondo in there.

My point was that if you look at the rust not knowing much about 914's it's not a very natural spot for rust to accumulate since it's sloped in a way that would not trap water. It's rusty because it's rusting from the inside out.

BTW that's not so much "foam" like the material shot into the deck/truck lids, as it is Seam sealer.
Tough stuff and a tricky area to remove from since its surrounds/envelops the fresh air vent tubes which *WILL* be rotted as well.

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No, you'd be the Titanic if you hit on this one. There is so much rust under the surface that the car is being held together by habit.
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I should have also mentioned that you can count on NOT driving around in a zippy sports car when it is up on jack stands for the 4-5 years it generally takes for amateur repairs of any magnitude.

Thanks for the advice. The guy says is some rust on the longitudinals. I am looking at another car and hoping it isn't quite the rust bucket this one appears to be. While I would love this car, it would be a love/hate relationship and a money pit. Not that it wouldn't be worth it, since I've always wanted a 914, but probably wouldn't love it enough to get a divorce since my wife would kill me for buying such a problematic car.

One suggestion... show up with an ice pick and poke anything that even looks suspicious. Especially the longs and the suspension points. But check the floor pans and the firewall bottom too.

Best option would be to remove the rockers. But the best you can hope for is the owner will allow them to be opened at the bottom so you can peer up & determine how bad it really is.

Are you in Washington, D.C or Washington state? If it's the Pacific NW, there are any number of guys up here who would go look at the car(s) with you to spot potential problems. All you have to do is ask.

Actually in the state of Washington, Pullman to be exact. I am looking at a car on Saturday that is in West Seattle. I am hoping the mechanic wasn't lying about the mechanical condition and hoping to drive it home. But I can always borrow my in-laws truck, but that would add a few hours and a ferry ride to our trip.

Are there a lot of NW members? I doubt there is one in this college town

with your decision to "move on"

What were they asking for that yellow car? There's a real strong 914World contingent up in Seattle. I'll bet there is someone here that'd run out there with you. Seriously.

My (unsolicited) advice: Go out there with enough cash to buy the car, but expect that it'll suck and you're not driving it home. That's the only way to keep yourself sane when looking at these. The good ones are so few/far that any other expectation will leave you in a state where you'll buy one that you shouldn't.

Good luck...and take lots of pics!

Sadly, that's pretty good advice. If you want a second set of eyes to look at the car on Saturday, I would post a thread specifically asking for a Seattle PPI. I'd offer to go but I'll be at the old car swap meet in Puyallup that day.

That yellow car is $2500. I'm looking at another vehicle on Saturday. Posting for some help from local Seattle folks. Thanks for the help

Here's the car.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/4328198745.html

Not worth $1,500...

I'm sure the guy has the $2500 into it, that will not make it worth $2500. Unfortunately, the body is a significant issue. It can be done, but if you don't have the skills, it will be expensive.

What (ittybitty) carbs are those??

That car is about $10,000 in metal work to restore it.

I recommend finding a new car.