Hey all,
This is for my fabricated front sway bar. What is the range of adjustability of the standard adjustable drop links (welt, tarret, smart, etc.) from the center of one hole to the center of the other hole?

Another quick question... How does this range work for slightly lowered 914's? Should they be any shorter/longer? I'm having some parts machined and i don't have my 914 around to measure. Gotta love the campus machine shop, they're doing the work for free!

thanks in advance,

David

As I understand it, the sway bar ends should be horizontal, or as much as possible, and so the links between the lower "A" arm and sway bar end should be adjustable to a degree. Go to www.paragon-products.com for some photos of the standard drop links and the "competition" links, which are more easily adjustable. Don't know when I'll be at dad's place to measure the links on my car, which is the standard welt. bar, but will do so if you don't have a response in a couple days. If you come up with a double heim jointed easily adjustable, (like the comp's) I'd be up for a set to update my ride...

Dave,
I sent you an e-mail with some info, let me know if you're interested.

David

Here’s some drop link info for you. Our front droplinks go as short as 7.47” from center to center. The length was just recently reduced to work better on 914’s that were relatively low. They can be adjusted to as long as about 8.6”, which is a little short for a 911 that isn’t lowered. We use Teflon lined 10mm rod ends. Don’t use smaller ones, they’ll wear out quickly.

Ira

nobody's got a set lying around that they can quickly measure for me ...maybe my bad spelling scared them off

David

David,
My car is lowered with the suspension arms horizontal. My drop-links were cut-down so that the sway-bar arms are horizontal at rest. This is the ideal geometry.

I just went out and measured them and they are exactly 7" center to center.
Big 'ol vsq914 disclaimer: This works on my car - might not be ideal on yours. You'll have to determine for yourself.

Here's my thought. You know where the center of the swaybar will be mounted in the body. Mark a horizontal line on the inner fender forward from that point. If you have your ride-height set already you should be able to measure the distance from your droplink mount up to the line you marked and there you go.

-Ben M. (a little chilly from laying in the snow measuring drop-links at 10pm/15F)

Ben,
Thanks for the info, that was exactly what I was looking for. My problem is that I’m back at school and forgot to get this measurement when I was at home One more quick question...are your drop links approximately perpendicular with your sway bar arms? If so that would make this the minimum distance. Since I have not done any tuning to my car I don't know where on the adjustment range I will need my bar to be. I will probably make two sets of "middle pieces" for my droplinks, one for the outer regions of the adjustment range, and one for the middle. Thanks again!

David

QUOTE (Dave-O @ Jan 6 2005, 07:11 AM)

One more quick question...are your drop links approximately perpendicular with your sway bar arms? If so that would make this the minimum distance.

Correct. I have a bar that's set very stiff (link close to bar) so the links are set at just about the shortest distance from a-arm to swaybar-arm. If I moved the links out to the farthest adjustment point on the bar-arms I'd probably need longer links. ...If that makes any sense. If I was making new adjustable links for myself I'd make them with a minimum adjusted length of 7" and a max of whatever you can get.

-Ben M.

A quick hi-jack.

What is the dimension to locate the u-tabs on the a-arms?

This is a linkage design I've been working on.
It contains a rotatable blade section for tension adjustment.
The geometry does not change over the adjustment range.
The horizontal dimension is 4.75" (same as stock).
The vertical dimension is 7.43" (also, same as stock)
What do you think?

QUOTE

I'd make them with a minimum adjusted length of 7"

thanks for all the info Ben! I think i will make one center section allowing the minimum lenth to be 7" and one to make it a little more, maybe 8" I have a feeling i may have to run my bar at a pretty soft setting so i will likely have to use the longer length.

QUOTE

What do you think?

I think i don't quite understand your tension adjustment mechanism. Please explain...i'm very interested.

That design would be some nice looking hardware...after seeing that i will never brag about my home-made mild steel contraption.

David

OK...i undestand now. The blade section would be act as a "spring" turning it would make the spring softer/stiffer. correct?

right on the money, dave-o. I recall seeing bars like this on race cars. might be interesting as a mfg exercise, as with the modular construction of that design would make it easier to use between different models of car by just changing one or two pieces to get the right length/stiffness for the drop link/blade link.

Marty, like what you're doing there- you build it, I'll auto cross test it... deal?

I want to try it on my car first.
I'll let you know.

When you're ready...

In an attempt to make a better mousetrap, I couldn't tell for sure if the drop link was height adjustable or not. I know you noted using stock measurements, but to make that drop link adjustable would be great for lowered cars or for use in corner balancing with the driver weight balasted in the car, to set a no-bind length for the drops.

Just a thought in case you hadn't covered that base yet.