http://lacrossmotorsport.com/index/#/1975-...he-914-6-14999/

I'm on this one mate! Thanks for the tip! Now I just gotta find out where I'm gonna get 15k from.

Mike In Munich

I think that car has been F/S elsewhere

It's also been at that lot for a while. Didn't spend much time looking too closely at it, but $15k seems a bit of a stretch for that. I'd rather drop $8k on a nice stock 4cyl than $10k on this.

Dan! Welcome back buddy.

Won't hi-jack the thread, been around. No 914 so didn't want to be a bum-dude without a 914 just hanging around.

Huh?

Ok, my enthusiasm has cooled down. I thought this looked like a really good deal at first, but I think I can do better building my six-er project from the ground up.

At any rate, I can pass on some info about the car. The guy that runs the website and the guy that is selling the car both know little to nothing more about it than is posted at the link above. I however did get this info from the previous owner:

Quote: The engine was originally a 2.7s model engine from 1975.  I rebuilt the engine myself.  When I bought and disassembled the engine, it had Nikasil cylinders with Porsche factory euro pistons. The pistons and cylinders were measured with a micrometer to be within spec.   The engine was stripped to the crank, and the case was sent to Craig Garrett of G2 racing in Michigan.  Craig time-certed* the case, and skimmed both case halves to bring the case back into spec.  Craig also did the oil pressure relief mod for use with a later style oil pump.

I had new camshafts ground by John Dougherty at Dougherty racing camshafts to an "E" camshaft profile. The combination of the Euro pistons (static compression ration measured by volume to be 8.8:1 and does not require high octane fuel), the E grind camshafts have been documented to produce around 210HP with the weber carburetors.  The headers are stock 914-6 headers with the heater boxes removed.  Unquote.

It has no heat exchangers but nothing special exhaust-wise either. Details unknown. Rear brakes are apparently stock. Also, unknown. Tires needing replacement. Wheels worth only about $100 apiece, front brakes worth selling and IMO upgrading to 944 turbos and pocketing the difference.

* my "research" says time-certing is like "time-bombing" the engine. The threads apparently are too small for the magnesium metal, leading to eventual (inevitable?) failure. Perhaps some of the senior members that really know their stuff in this direction would like to comment on this?

M.i.M.

Per Wayne Dempsey...

Time to Rebuild?

How to Rebuild and Modify Porsche Engines

Time-sert official site

The 1974-77 magnesium cases are most known for their pulled head studs. How does this happen? Magnesium is softer and lighter than aluminum. On the very early magnesium cases (1973 and earlier), the engine didn’t stress the limits of the magnesium case too much. With the advent of newer, and tougher emissions restrictions in the late 1970s, hotter running engines (hotter engines give off less emissions) began to stress the limits of the magnesium case. In addition, the increase of the displacement of the engine placed additional stresses on the engine cases. Particularly if the engine becomes overheated, it will expand and place additional stress on the threads of the studs that are inserted into the case. These stresses were exacerbated by the fact that the cylinder spigot was enlarged to accommodate the larger 2.7L cylinder. The enlarged bore removed crucial material in the area near where the cylinder head studs are mounted. The result is that the metal threads in the magnesium case yield, and begin to pull out. Once the engine cools down to it’s normal operating state, the stress subsides, but the studs remain pulled out of the magnesium case. The result is that the barrel nuts on the end of the studs become loose and fall off. Subsequent attempts to re-torque the nuts almost always results in further pulling of the stud. The appropriate torque for the heads can longer be maintained, and as a result, the heads become loose. This often creates a distinctive exhaust leak at the interface between the head and the cylinder. This phat-phat-phat sound is typical of a 2.7L engine with pulled head studs.

How can you tell if you have a pulled head stud? Simply pull off the valve covers (upper and lower), and check to see if you have any head stud barrel nuts floating around the inside the spark plug area. If you do, then chances are good that your magnesium case has pulled at least one stud. If the barrel nuts are still attached to the head studs, take a 10mm allen-head tool, and attempt to tighten them to factory specs (see Appendix X for the specification for your year engine). If the nuts simply spin and spin, then you probably have a pulled head stud. Don’t keep tightening it, as you can pull the stud so far out of the hole that it will be difficult to remove the nut later on when you disassemble the engine.

The repair involves a complete teardown of the engine, as you cannot easily and effectively repair the case without the use of a precision milling machine or drill press. The fix for pulled head studs is the installation of what are known as case-savers. These are threaded steel inserts that are installed into the case and reinforce the threads to be stronger than the bare metal threads within the case. The case-saver has a larger diameter than the original head stud, which results in more material contact area to grip the time-sert. In addition, the case-saver is a larger, coarser thread, which means that there is more material between each thread. More material translates into greater strength along the axis of the head stud. In simple terms, the case-saver creates a new hole for the head stud that is stronger and tougher than the original one in the case. Case-savers can still pull out of the case, however, this is usually only seen in high-stress, high-compression race motors, or if the engine has been overheated. Placing the case-savers in the magnesium case should make it more than strong enough for street and most race track use.

Right on Bill, great info.

So how much time and money is involved in such a "case saver solution"?

This car that this thread is about has a 16 quart oil system. Does one reckon that for more or less normal street use that this engine won't get hot enough for this issue to (likely not) arise?

M.i.M.

I did a walk around on this 914-6 yesterday. Didn't bother to open any trunks or look at the engine. It's a pretty rough car, lots of bondo and fiberglass separating in many places. Flares look like they were attached well. Rest of the car is pretty rough.

Didn't check to see what kind of oil tank or six mount it used. In my mind the general condition of the body wasn't worth much so why bother.

Dan, get your ass down to CAMP 914, I have a perfect project 914 for you
. And the price is more than right.
Flares , five lug, just needs your special touch.
Craig at CAMP

Pm sent.
Craig at CAMP

Matt LaCross notoriously overcharges for everything he sells.

Dan do you need a ride to Craig's?

Mike,
How about this one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-914-6-916-...=US_Cars_Trucks

That's one of the 914-6's I converted years back. There are a few threads on it. I would say it's a much better 914-6 now though. Different engine, better paint job etc. Don't know what converted sixes go for anymore, but it sure looks clean.

I remember putting the stitched dash in that, still looks like a million bucks. Most everything else is different (better).

NO! If I go down to CAMP, I know I'll buy something.

That dash is very nice still. Do you do the custom front and rear carpet sets as well?

Drove this car today. It is really nice. 15K may be a bit high. The the front passenger and the read driver fenders are both cracked. I would be in it for 12K.

Drove this car today. It is really nice. 15K may be a bit high. The the front passenger and the read driver fenders are both cracked. I would be in it for 12K.

good. then you can drive it to southern California to hang out with us for a few days...
Hi Dan!

[quote name='Root_Werks' date='Mar 7 2014, 07:52 AM' post='2007384']
[quote name='87m491' post='2007347' date='Mar 7 2014, 06:09 AM']
Mike,
How about this one?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-914-6-916-...=US_Cars_Trucks
[/quote]

I had seen that car on EBay. It sold for over $30k.

I was in touch with the guy in TX that built the blue car that his thread is about. He stopped answering my questions though and couldn't / didn't tell me if the case was done with Time Certs or Case Savers. At that point I lost interest.

M.i.M.