Well I am a bit confused on this one. 2056 dual Webers. Electronic ignition. New SVDA dizzy. Rev limiting rotor.

Pulled the tank to install SS lines and had a few problems with crimping the lines when putting the tank back but I think I have that worked out. Compression good at 130 plus on all. Timing set at 30 BTDC.

Car runs strong up to exactly 4400 rpm and then it sounds like it hits a wall. Can run it long and hard at rpms below so I am not thinking it is fuel limited. Swapped out the rev limiting rotor with standard one but same thing happens.

I am going to pull the tank again to be sure on the lines. Any other thoughts?

Do you have an AFM?
Did it do it before you changed the lines?

If it was not present before you changed the lines, I would look under the tank with a mirror and look at the rubber lines to see if there is a kink.

Sounds like you constricted something with the line swap.. Or broke loose some debris that got somewhere that you didn't want it to be..

Had not thought about a line swap Jake.

Did not do it before but I had to pull the engine to recover a lost part down the intake.

I was very diligent in managing any debris and ran a couple of gallons of gas through the lines using multiple filters.

So I guess I will check for kinks, swap lines, then clean the carbs!

Change back to the non-limiting rotor....

I once had a fuel filter with an aluminum burr ball inside. Every time I would go above 65mph, the fuel flow would push the burr and plug the line. Engine would stall and I could restart instantly. It would do this over and over until I found the problem.

Mike, are you using the cb style pump with the metal canister (filter) still attached?

I would pull that new SVDA dizzy out and throw it as far as you possibly can. I've had 2 clients w/in the past week that have had these very things cause serious running issues. Just because it's "new" doesn't mean it works right. They are a total POS IMHO.

Find a good used German dizzy, clean it up, install new Bosch tune-up parts and install that. This may or may not be part of the problem, but it WILL become a problem in the near future. The problem is usually the LAST thing you installed. . .

Kevin that is correct. Tank had little to no trash in it and I flushed the lines prior to hooking it back up.

I have heard that. But this was just to be a transition for going back to FI. I have the 2.0 and a 1.8 dizzy with electronic ignition. Any preference on which one? Still has stock cam.

1.8 ljet dizzy seems better for carbs.

What one you use when you go back to FI is dependent upon what FI you plan to use.
Both will support your engine.

Look for kinked rubber lines.
If no, then look at which line you are using for the feed line.
The return line is a smaller diameter...

If none of that is obvious, put a clear fuel filter in the engine bay on the feed side.
Run the motor up and see if you are having a fuel starvation issue.

If it worked before you did the fuel lines, and nothing else was changed when you did the lines...and by nothing, I mean nothing....then you need to figure out what happened to the fuel delivery.

If you happen to mess with the distributor when putting in the lines...well, now you have two diagnostic roads to go down....



rich

it "should" work either way...but the return line is smaller and its also up higher in the tank....so if you are 1/4 of a tank or less...you will run out of fuel.

The correct feed line is at the bottom of the tank, lowest spot.
The return is up about 4 inches...with the sock etc.

I believe the return line is the one closest to the driver side of the car when you look under the tank...I mean the fitting portion on the tank itself...

Rich

I believe the return line is the one farthest from the passenger's feet when you look under the tank...I mean the fitting on the tank itself...

I don't think the problem has to do with the fuel lines though...

yah, well its been a while since I last kinked a line...so your memory is way better...cause you do this every day

Figured someone would correct me if I was wrong

rich

If you are running electronic cd ignition like the 6AL they also have a rev limiter dip switch

John

Nothing that complex. Just no points. The only "dip" seems to be the guy working on it!

Do you still have your old 009?

I think the 1.8 L is an 009. I am out of town so I can't verify. I ran it a bit earlier but the stumble off idle was horrid!

You never said if this was happening before you changed the fuel lines....

Was it?

Nate is spot on, too.. Trace your footsteps back. I try to only change one factor at a time, that way I know when the problem started and what the variable was. "new" parts are pretty much junk.

Sorry I guess I was not clear. But it was not happening before I installed the SS lines. But I also had to pull the heads to retrieve a part that fell in the intake. Another long story.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Banged around a bit but good compression afterwards and the valves seemed fine. Did not mess with the dizzy. It is the same as before.

So I have to think it has something to do with the fuel lines. I am betting I swapped the lines around

Yep, a sheet metal screw was eaten. You'll make that mistake once.

Just so many things to go back through and verify at this point.

Do the basics....timing, valve adjustment, plugs, wires, cap etc.

Yes I will never do it again. I was very lucky! You remember the painful lessons!

Well while I may be a slow learner, I have picked check the basics up from all of the help I have received here. I set the valves when the engine was out. Checked them multiple times. Ran compression test all 135 plus. Timing is at 30 degrees. Plugs look good maybe a little rich but not bad. Wires are new and removing one at a time shows all are firing. Cap and rotor are new and not burnt. Carbs were not changed other adjusting after setting timing and balancing.

Won't get to work on it until Thursday. This work thing is a drag.

But it never hurts to be reminded to do the basics. That advice from those on this board has saved me a lot of grief. Regardless of what you think you know, that advice will always be sound.

So I have to look at the lines and filters or just dump it on Jakes door and hope he will fix it for free? Just have to get past that gate thing! Seriously at some point Jake will be doing the engine just got to save a few more dollars.

Well it's fuel, air or timing.
Narrow your search.

Fuel, you got that path to search.
Air would be valves and properly setup linkage on the carbs.
Timing....see what the timing looks like at 3500 rpms and 4400 rpms...

Rich

Yeah. I made it when I was 10.

Mike,
After you have gone back through the basics, consider this. Kevin taught me to have a good quality fuel pressure gauge inline with the carbs to help this very scenario. You can order a Summit Racing/Jegs one for just a few bucks. Plumb it in line with the carb inlet line. Then you'll be able to see if you're getting adequate fuel at idle at least. You can take it one step further with a GoPro or phone camera and videotape the gauge as you make a couple of runs up to 4400. This will at least tell us whether fuel is the culprit, or as Rich and Jake and others have suggested, air/spark.

To separate fuel from spark issues here's a neat easy way to do it.
Rev it with no load, sitting still in neutral. If it quits at 4400, it is ignition related since very little fuel flow is needed.
If it is quitting due to fuel restriction, it'll happen at even lower rpm if you power brake it and go wot in third gear, say.

It wouldn't be his 30 degree timing spec would it? Factory spec is 27 btdc at 3500

That is for FI I am running carbs.

have you verified float levels?

I had the set appropriately prior to removing the engine to retrieve the lost screw.

So I don't think I did anything to alter the previous settings. But after swapping the fuel lines the carbs are a place to look next with the possibility of debris in the tank blocking something.