J P Stein
Jan 9 2005, 02:34 PM
Is it better to put bondo over bare metal or prime first.
I'm not a body work guru, but plan to be one soon
Aaron Cox
Jan 9 2005, 02:35 PM
i believe you rough up the bare metal surface, so it has something to stick to
skline
Jan 9 2005, 02:37 PM
You would put the bondo on bare metal only. It wont stick to the primer or paint very well. Needs to be a rough surface.
Im not a body man either but I play one on TV.
jwalters
Jan 9 2005, 02:51 PM
QUOTE (skline @ Jan 9 2005, 12:37 PM) |
You would put the bondo on bare metal only. It wont stick to the primer or paint very well. Needs to be a rough surface.
Im not a body man either but I play one on TV. |
--on all accounts! Good luck!
Porsche Rescue
Jan 9 2005, 02:51 PM
Clean bare metal, 60 grit or some such, then slather it on.
Take it it down first with a "chesse grater" tool, Stanley Sure Form will do. Then you get to do lots of block sanding. And then you block sand. Did I mention block sanding? Prime with a rattle can, then block sand.
J P Stein
Jan 9 2005, 03:40 PM
Thanks......I can do that.
I'm gonna go out to the shop & run amok
joea9146
Jan 9 2005, 03:47 PM
I know you need to Bondo the Sail Panels but what u doing with the new Fenders ?
You going to Bondo the New Fenders or leave them as Screw on ??
J P Stein
Jan 9 2005, 03:54 PM
I'm just gonna rivet them on....ala Randal's car.....tho they need some filling as their finish ain't the best.
Joe Bob
Jan 9 2005, 04:07 PM
Cheese grater is OK....but I like air tools, the circular sander rocks.....80 grit to knock it down, 150 to shape..220 wet and dry by hand....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint......
Lou W
Jan 9 2005, 07:19 PM
QUOTE |
mikez Posted on Jan 9 2005, 02:07 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cheese grater is OK....but I like air tools, the circular sander rocks.....80 grit to knock it down, 150 to shape..220 wet and dry by hand....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint...... |
I'll use a speed file whith 40grit, then 80, 120 etc. Speed File
Aaron Cox
Jan 9 2005, 07:20 PM
QUOTE (Lou W @ Jan 9 2005, 06:19 PM) |
QUOTE | mikez Posted on Jan 9 2005, 02:07 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cheese grater is OK....but I like air tools, the circular sander rocks.....80 grit to knock it down, 150 to shape..220 wet and dry by hand....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint...... | I'll use a speed file whith 40grit, then 80, 120 etc. Speed File |
we call those "longboards"
Lou W
Jan 9 2005, 07:24 PM
QUOTE |
Aaron Cox Posted on Jan 9 2005, 05:20 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- QUOTE (Lou W @ Jan 9 2005, 06:19 PM) QUOTE mikez Posted on Jan 9 2005, 02:07 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cheese grater is OK....but I like air tools, the circular sander rocks.....80 grit to knock it down, 150 to shape..220 wet and dry by hand....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint...... I'll use a speed file whith 40grit, then 80, 120 etc. Speed File
we call those "longboards" |
Oh, I thought this was a longboard.
Aaron Cox
Jan 9 2005, 07:29 PM
QUOTE (Lou W @ Jan 9 2005, 06:24 PM) |
QUOTE | Aaron Cox Posted on Jan 9 2005, 05:20 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- QUOTE (Lou W @ Jan 9 2005, 06:19 PM) QUOTE mikez Posted on Jan 9 2005, 02:07 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Cheese grater is OK....but I like air tools, the circular sander rocks.....80 grit to knock it down, 150 to shape..220 wet and dry by hand....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint...... I'll use a speed file whith 40grit, then 80, 120 etc. Speed File
we call those "longboards" | Oh, I thought this was a longboard. |
heheh.. those are too
Joe Bob
Jan 9 2005, 07:48 PM
Those are called boobs....
redshift
Jan 9 2005, 07:57 PM
QUOTE (mikez @ Jan 9 2005, 06:07 PM) |
then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint...... |
You, AND JP.
M
GWN7
Jan 9 2005, 08:04 PM
If you buy a straight line/long board/speed file..buy a good one, the cheap ones jam and stick
J P Stein
Jan 9 2005, 08:05 PM
It's hard to keep a dead man down, eh Miles?
GWN7
Jan 9 2005, 08:07 PM
that's not Miles...that's Jerry
Lou W
Jan 9 2005, 08:08 PM
QUOTE |
GWN7 Posted on Jan 9 2005, 06:04 PM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- If you buy a straight line/long board/speed file..buy a good one, the cheap ones jam and stick |
I agree, and don't forget to clean and oil it.
Bruce Allert
Jan 10 2005, 08:22 AM
QUOTE (mikez @ Jan 9 2005, 03:07 PM) |
....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint...... |
oooooh COOL! then just add some brown & you'll have a camo car. Won't be able t'see ya spin out
.....b
davep
Jan 10 2005, 08:45 AM
There was a writeup on this recently. As I recall, the gist of the argument was to primer, bondo, and primer again. This allowed the bondo to bond better and caused less shrinking or cracking later. I believe the topic was in regards to a fully stripped shell that needs to be primered fully. Bodywork would be done over the primer, then a final primer coat would go on before the top coats.
andys
Jan 10 2005, 10:57 AM
On American Hot Rod, the guys at Boyd's applied bondo to the whole car for blocking AFTER the metal primer. I know what you're thinking, but Charlie Hutton was one of few on the show with legitimate skills. Wonder what Bluebear's up to these days? Like we care!
Andy
Porsche Rescue
Jan 10 2005, 11:05 AM
Original thought: wonder what the directions on the can say?
J P Stein
Jan 10 2005, 11:17 AM
Too late, the job is done.......good info, tho
The bondo I scrapped off was over bare metal
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please
click here.