Help - Search - Members - Calendar
Full Version: Bondo
914World.com > The 914 Forums > 914World Garage
J P Stein
Is it better to put bondo over bare metal or prime first.
I'm not a body work guru, but plan to be one soon IPB Image
Aaron Cox
i believe you rough up the bare metal surface, so it has something to stick to IPB Image
skline
You would put the bondo on bare metal only. It wont stick to the primer or paint very well. Needs to be a rough surface.


Im not a body man either but I play one on TV.
jwalters
QUOTE (skline @ Jan 9 2005, 12:37 PM)
You would put the bondo on bare metal only. It wont stick to the primer or paint very well. Needs to be a rough surface.


Im not a body man either but I play one on TV.

IPB Image --on all accounts! Good luck! IPB Image
Porsche Rescue
Clean bare metal, 60 grit or some such, then slather it on.
Take it it down first with a "chesse grater" tool, Stanley Sure Form will do. Then you get to do lots of block sanding. And then you block sand. Did I mention block sanding? Prime with a rattle can, then block sand.
J P Stein
Thanks......I can do that.

I'm gonna go out to the shop & run amok IPB Image
joea9146
I know you need to Bondo the Sail Panels but what u doing with the new Fenders ?
You going to Bondo the New Fenders or leave them as Screw on ??
J P Stein
I'm just gonna rivet them on....ala Randal's car.....tho they need some filling as their finish ain't the best.
Joe Bob
Cheese grater is OK....but I like air tools, the circular sander rocks.....80 grit to knock it down, 150 to shape..220 wet and dry by hand....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint...... IPB Image
Lou W
QUOTE
mikez Posted on Jan 9 2005, 02:07 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cheese grater is OK....but I like air tools, the circular sander rocks.....80 grit to knock it down, 150 to shape..220 wet and dry by hand....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint......  
I'll use a speed file whith 40grit, then 80, 120 etc. Speed File
Aaron Cox
QUOTE (Lou W @ Jan 9 2005, 06:19 PM)
QUOTE
mikez Posted on Jan 9 2005, 02:07 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cheese grater is OK....but I like air tools, the circular sander rocks.....80 grit to knock it down, 150 to shape..220 wet and dry by hand....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint......  
I'll use a speed file whith 40grit, then 80, 120 etc. Speed File

we call those "longboards"
Lou W
QUOTE
Aaron Cox Posted on Jan 9 2005, 05:20 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
QUOTE (Lou W @ Jan 9 2005, 06:19 PM)
QUOTE  
mikez Posted on Jan 9 2005, 02:07 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cheese grater is OK....but I like air tools, the circular sander rocks.....80 grit to knock it down, 150 to shape..220 wet and dry by hand....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint......    
I'll use a speed file whith 40grit, then 80, 120 etc. Speed File  

we call those "longboards"  
Oh, I thought this was a longboard. IPB Image
Aaron Cox
QUOTE (Lou W @ Jan 9 2005, 06:24 PM)
QUOTE
Aaron Cox Posted on Jan 9 2005, 05:20 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
QUOTE (Lou W @ Jan 9 2005, 06:19 PM)
QUOTE  
mikez Posted on Jan 9 2005, 02:07 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Cheese grater is OK....but I like air tools, the circular sander rocks.....80 grit to knock it down, 150 to shape..220 wet and dry by hand....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint......    
I'll use a speed file whith 40grit, then 80, 120 etc. Speed File  

we call those "longboards"  
Oh, I thought this was a longboard. IPB Image

heheh.. those are too IPB Image
Joe Bob
Those are called boobs....
redshift
QUOTE (mikez @ Jan 9 2005, 06:07 PM)
then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint...... IPB Image

You, AND JP.

IPB Image


M
GWN7
If you buy a straight line/long board/speed file..buy a good one, the cheap ones jam and stick
J P Stein
It's hard to keep a dead man down, eh Miles?
GWN7
that's not Miles...that's Jerry IPB Image
Lou W
QUOTE
GWN7 Posted on Jan 9 2005, 06:04 PM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If you buy a straight line/long board/speed file..buy a good one, the cheap ones jam and stick  
I agree, and don't forget to clean and oil it. IPB Image
Bruce Allert
QUOTE (mikez @ Jan 9 2005, 03:07 PM)
....then rattle can with hod rod black primer for that "Otlaw" look.....who needs paint...... IPB Image

oooooh COOL! then just add some brown & you'll have a camo car. Won't be able t'see ya spin out IPB Image

.....b IPB Image
davep
There was a writeup on this recently. As I recall, the gist of the argument was to primer, bondo, and primer again. This allowed the bondo to bond better and caused less shrinking or cracking later. I believe the topic was in regards to a fully stripped shell that needs to be primered fully. Bodywork would be done over the primer, then a final primer coat would go on before the top coats.
andys
On American Hot Rod, the guys at Boyd's applied bondo to the whole car for blocking AFTER the metal primer. I know what you're thinking, but Charlie Hutton was one of few on the show with legitimate skills. Wonder what Bluebear's up to these days? Like we care!

Andy
Porsche Rescue
Original thought: wonder what the directions on the can say?
J P Stein
Too late, the job is done.......good info, tho IPB Image

The bondo I scrapped off was over bare metal IPB Image
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.
Invision Power Board © 2001-2024 Invision Power Services, Inc.