I need new track tires for this upcoming DE season. Over the last 2years (ten events), I ran 205/55 A034Rs all around on 16x7 Fuchs. My fenders are flared and will accomadate 225/50 on sevens in the front and 245/45 on nines for the rear. The car is well sorted and my driving skill level places me in our "A " category. I occasionally drive the car on the street.
The questions are:

1. What brand and why?

2. What vendor and why?

3. Heat cycled or shaved?

You thoughts and comments welcomed.

1.) I was always happy with the Kumho Victoracers. They are a good value for the price. Hoosier slicks are only a little quicker and a lot more expensive. The Kumhos also do well on the street.

2.) I got mine directly from Kumho. I think Tire Rack will match the price if you get a quote.

3.) Heat Cycling will make them last longer. There is no improvement on shaved ones, they only wear out quicker.

I run 245/45/16 on 8 inch rims in the rear. I run both 205 and 225 on 7's in the front. I like the way the car sits with 205's, the 225's are nearly an inch taller and shifts the weight back. It's tough to find a good track tire that you can run on the street. I use Hoosiers on the track but never on the street, too much money to waste them. I hear good things about Toyo but have never used them.

Does anyone have experience with the 'new' Kuhmo V710? I need tires for D/SP car w/15" cookie cutters. My the car has rolled fenders, pulled out as far as we can but not flared. Should I stick with the 205/50/15 or 225/50/15, car is strictly for autocross.
Thanks

Eddie, what kind of flares are those? I like!! Kinda looks like they're off a Rabbit.

....b

QUOTE (dheinz @ Jan 9 2005, 07:02 PM)

1. What brand and why?

i *will* be running goodyear R250 s ....

i can't tell you how they will hold up yet, but i have heard a lot of good things about them ...

QUOTE

2. What vendor and why?

got them from a fellow board member (bill p.), so no vendor info ...

QUOTE

3. Heat cycled or shaved?

heatcycled yes, shaved no ...

Andy

QUOTE (microsa @ Jan 9 2005, 07:43 PM)

Does anyone have experience with the 'new' Kuhmo V710? I need tires for D/SP car w/15" cookie cutters. My the car has rolled fenders, pulled out as far as we can but not flared. Should I stick with the 205/50/15 or 225/50/15, car is strictly for autocross. Thanks

i've *heard* good things about the V710s from people who know more than i. certainly worth a try, grip is comparable to hoosiers, apparently (a bit less $). 225's if you can fit 'em, of course...

andy, those look fing awesome.

et al, i've heard that Vracers should be shaved for track use to avoid chunking.

Those slicks look so sticky the pavment is stuck to them.

Did I see the price right on those Goodyear R250's , like $400.00 EACH! My car isn't worth that much! (Well, maybe, but damn that's over my pay grade.) Kuhmo here I come!

Bruce, thanks. The previous owner advertized the car as having "steel flares, tastefully done". No specific brand or donor was ever mentioned.
Lots of room under those rear flares for 245/45/16s on 9in. Fuchs.

using the car the way you do, I would recommend you stay with the Yoko A032Rs that are on it.
The Falken's would be similar, but not quite as sticky - but a lot less $.

IMHO, those are the best "comporomise" tires.

I've used both the Kumho Victoracer V700 and Ecsta V700 for mixed street/track duty and they are a good value for that application; however, especially if unshaved they tend to get greasy and have rubber migration issues after 10-15 minutes of lapping. (AutoX would probably be a different story as the temps are much lower.) I have not seen chunking probs and think that's more likely with heavier or less balanced cars than our 914's.

Unless you want to keep several sets of wheels/tires, I'd avoid the V710 or Hoosier if you do ANY street driving. They are not suitable at all for street use.

I keep one set of Kumhos for the rare canyon run or also for "goofing around" track events i.e., DE's, and if budget permits I run Hoosiers for competitive events. Even in my 205 size the cost difference per set is over $200; for you it could be more like $350 I'm guessing.