Hi everyone.
Having just finished rebuilding my CV’s to complete the winter rebuild of my rear suspension I thought I would share some valuable information on a specific job many of you are doing or contemplating: safety wiring the CV bolts.

There’s a lot of tech advice on how to use safety wire at Youtube (here’s a good one http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qi5e4ivifaM) so I won’t get into that part of the job but rather a few things specific to our needs.

First things first:
Use the best CV’s and hardware you can afford as I can assure you this (safety wiring the CV bolts) is something you’re not going to want to repeat anytime soon.

Second:
The book calls for a torque of 32 pounds on the bolts but most folks on “world” seem to go to 35 pounds. If you’re using paper gaskets like OEM, many have said it’s worth re-torqueing the bolts after a few days/weeks as some have seen the torque specs change due to the gasket taking a “crush”. That may indicate doing a safety wire job quite awhile after you’ve bolted things up. I did my CV’s off the car as it looks difficult if not impossible to safety wire the outer CV bolts once the axle’s installed, but others may have better experience with this (chime in if you do).
I mention the re-torque as I can assure you, cutting the wires and doing this a second time in your lifetime because you forgot to re-torque will make you want to slit your wrists and stab out your eyes.

Third:
I mean this in all sincerity, it might be a good idea to do this job either in a sound proof chamber or make sure the kids, wife, neighbors are all well clear of hearing distance. It’s likely you will be using words hitherto unknown to them and in creative new ways you had no idea you could use.

Fourth:
Don’t believe ANY vendor in reference to how much wire you will need to create eight safety wiring loops (which is commonly what you will do for an entire CV safety wire job). You will need at least a ten inches for each of the two bolts that are going to be “wired” and I daresay a wise man would plan for twelve. 8X12=96 inches. Most (of our 914) vendors that sell the special pliers along with wire will send about 65 inches, well short of what you’ll “really” need.

Fifth:
And yes I did save the crucial one for last.
Don’t bother buying bolts that have been drilled out by a vendor for your convenience. Do it yourself. I know it’s a huge bitch but I’ve yet to find a vendor that drills out the bolts with FOUR holes and believe me when I say this is going to be critically important in getting through this job without a homicide having occurred. Invariably, if you use bolts drilled with only two holes most if not all of them will not line up in a way that facilitates an easy job. One of the holes ALWAYS lines up facing the boot flange and threading a very stiff wire that close to a blocking piece of metal is an experience you will want to avoid. Pull your teeth with rusty pliers rather than thread safety wire through a two hole bolt with a piece of metal close by thereby blocking it from passage, your day will be much more pleasant.

That is all, over and out.
Off to drown myself in the hot tub.

I can agree with just about everything except drilling four holes in the cv bolts. I have only two holes drilled in my bolts and yes, at least one of them didn't line up correctly and one of the holes was up against the cv. You can thread it through by carefully (and patiently) wiggling the wire through, then grabbing them with a pair of needle nose pliers and pulling the wire the rest of the way through. I especially like the idea of re-torqueing the bolts. I waited 24 hours to re-torque mine.

I re-built my rear suspension as you did last Summer.

I didn't use any safety wire and I replaced all four of my CV's cause I was there.

If you make SURE you have all new hardware and everything is UBER super clean and is torqued to spec. You should be fine. I know this is a debate among some of the most experienced folks here...it just depends on the CV setup IMHO. I even took my daughters fingernail polish to put tattletale marks on the bolts to make sure they weren't backing out...specially the joints on the outer side of the axle.

One caviat....Chris Foley machines out the recess for the gasket on the CV's he sells....I chose Type 1 replacements because they were available and near new from a member here without the gasket or recess. If you do that (meaning use joints without the recess...DON"T use the gaskets if the recess isn't milled in....or you will wish you put the CV bolts in with wires.

I didn't want to spend time cursing and twisting wire if I didn't have to.....the suspension rebuild took long enough. I guess it buys a piece of mind...I still check them after a long drive.

I'd love to find a set of bolts with holes for my car. I don't have the tools (or time) to drill them all out and trust them.

Is there anyone that sells a decent kit that has the inner and outers with 4 holes drilled?

I don't safety wire my CV bolts, and I never have. I found that if you use the factory torque settings, and use NEW schnorr washers every time you assemble the CV joints, you won't have any issues with the bolts backing out.

That being said, I check them every time I am under the car. Since I started following the factory manual procedure to the letter, I have not had a single bolt loosen up.

with the "short as me" guy!

I agree, admittedly, I don't drive that often, but installation of with clean and dry flanges, clean CV threads and dry Schorr washers, tourqued to 30 ft lbs. I also have experienced no problems

Safety wire cheap insurance...... I've had a CV let go on me, it scares the shit out of you.....

I am running a lot more Hp than most but still feel it's cheap insurance.

Safety wire cheap insurance...... I've had a CV let go on me, it scares the shit out of you.....

I am running a lot more Hp than most but still feel it's cheap insurance.

I have found the same. Also, I tend to have cv grease everywhere; the threads, the holes, the top of the flanges. If you have good shnorr washers and whatever those 2-hole plates are called, it does not matter.

I run a v-8 so it seemed to make sense to wire em, but I have to say if your using the correct heavy gauge wire threading two hole drilled bolts can be an uber bitch. In the future when I have to do this job again (and for my application it seems to be a good idea) I'll drill the bolts again for a four hole bolt.

I got mine (two hole drilled) from 914Rubber and it inlcuded the washers. Also bought the safety wire pliers from em (with included wire) but they didn't include near enough wire. Decent pricing, but if I knew then what I know now I'd have drilled additional holes in all of em.
Not aware of anyone selling them drilled four hole style :-(
D
FYI-when they're drilled four hole it's referred to as "aircraft method" when drilled two hole method it's referred to as "industrial method"
For our application we would be using bolts prepped for aircraft method but using the industrial method threading. To truly raise the safety wiring of the CV's to "aircraft method" would require using four hole drilled and threaded through all four. A nighmare to be sure. See it on youtube. I've misplaced the link but I could find it if you really really want to bring this level of protection down on your world, lol!

I have a local tooling guy that just drilled out my brake caliper bolts. I tried but gave up after breaking six drill bits. He was not cheap but he did a very nice job. Next are my CV joints.

David

Have him drill them four hole style and you will be grateful I told you about this. Trust me, you will.

Here is one trick that makes the job easier...

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After the event in Medford I used locktite on the outboard bolts and (lucky me) Mark wired the inboard ones. Probably a good idea as you don't want a CV coming off during a hill climb.

Although I believe the posters that said new washers and correct torque will elimate bolts coming out.

Click to view attachment