My renewed tranny will arrive next week thanks to Dr. Evil. There are several things to deal with that I'm not sure of the correct order, especially that shift rod.
Would like some input as the steps to follow to reinstall

Check out the clutch replacement article at Pelican Parts. Same procedure minus the clutch unless you need to change it or check it.
http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/9...ch_replace1.htm

Is the shift rod installed after the tranny is back in place

The shift rod that goes through the firewall is installed first then the tranny then the rod that connects to the side shift console on the tranny.

1. Remove shift rod between firewall and shift console.
2. Remove clutch cable, speedometer cable and back up light wires
3. Remove ground strap from tranny.
4. Disconnect CV joints, cover in baggies.
5. Remove Muffler or whole exhaust
6. Remove starter
7. Remove tranny.

To install reverse the above. This is from memory. The Pelican guide is probably better and has pictures!!

McMark's engine drop tech article covers that parts as well:
http://www.914world.com/specs/tech_engdrop1.php

That works Thanks

Jim
Do you have new Schnoor washers for the cv joints an two new cone screws for the shift linkage?
And cv joint gaskets.

Feed the shifter rod into the console, then connect it at the firewall and tighten the cone screw, then connect the linkage at the console.

I should point out that if you make the firewall connection prior to feeding the shift rod into the console, you will have to disconnect it from the firewall end to correct this oversight. But don't ask how I know...

jim, just before you install the engine, lay the rod in place, thru the front bar and in the rear console. easy hook up and you won't have to struggle with fight the bar in from the front to the rear.

I believe this is only a tranny install. Engine was left in the cat.
Right Jim?

Bruce

Have new Schnoors and CV gaskets, I have two of the J-West cone screws that were used once about a week earlier. They look good

Yup, engine is in the car

Thanks, that was what I was wondering.

Jim, i just did this, and made the mistake of not double checkin my cone screws, the one at the firewall connection came loose because i didnt go back and tighten it up! so while backing out of garage, i went to shift and it came apart- not a big deal, glad in happened in the garage!, -BTW did you get your new MC in and bled out yet? - finally got my supply lines seated, no leaks, but cant seem to get the lines fully clear, so the pedal is a bit soft yet- just wondering if you were to that point yet?
also - you will like your newly refreshed trans for sure

IITROR

Installation is the reverse of removal.

A big thanks to Dr. Evil ! Received the tranny yesterday from Dr Evil and unloaded it for installation this Sunday. Also got the main part that was defective.

Better pic of gear:

Ouch. how does that happen?

Jim,
don't forget a cold six pack of brewskies to celebrate a job well done.

One way it can happen is if you put a whole lotta torque through the box. After that happens, eventually the teeth start breaking off.

--DD

Intrestingly, when I first got this tranny back in 2008, DR Evil had to replace the output flange bearings along with some first gear parts.
For the following 6 years it ran great; then last month the flywheel, PP, clutch, and TO Bearcing were replaced. After the tranny was replaced, a slight noise was detected; not loud, not grinding, more like the air coming in the window when it's open an inch or so.
Packed it up and sent it to the good Doctor for daignosis and treatment. Turned out the Pinion shaft was galled' the input bearing req replacement, 1st needed a new band, and 2nd gear needed new dog teeth.

And, while I was there: I cleaned the grease off the bottom of the trunk- what a mess + installed new heater cable boots + installed new PMB vented rotors and GT calipers