-I am getting a constant discharge on my battery
-I wired my meter in series between positive cable and the positive post on battery (when battery is fully charged)
-it shows draw of 1.97 amps
-have a 1975 with 66k miles and most everything stock from what I can tell
-I have taken the troubleshooting as far as I can and now stumped
-in the picture if you see the two red wires crimped on one terminal that is where my draw is coming from
-thought that went to relay board, so I have unplugged all (3) of my relays, both fused, voltage regulator and 3-wire plug going to alternator, still can't get rid of the draw
-anyone know where those two wires go? or has anyone seen this before?

thanks,

those red wires go to the fuse panel

I pulled each fuse one at a time from under the dash, didn't change, think I'm getting a short from wire up to the panel somewhere then?

sorry should have stated the two red wires with yellow tape are the exact ones causing the issue

Pull your fuses one at a time until the draw stops then you can isolate the circuit. Also possibly a bad diode in the alternator.

unplug the voltage regulator on the relay board. if the draw stops then you have most likely a bad alternator rectifier.

-pulled fuses one at a time, nothing changed
-unplugged regulator from the relay board, nothing changed

-still drew 1.97amps with each fuse disconnected or any relay or the regulator

Since you checked the fuses individually, and the regulator, it sounds like you have a shorted wire. Almost 2A is not a small amount of current and a short to ground would explain this. Check the wires that are the cause for a short to ground. Disconnect both ends. to do this.

the wires go down under/thru tins it appears, any clue where the other ends are to check?

Not without my book and some time. You have to trace them out as they are all red and some go forward to the fuse panel and one will go to the alternator (at least). I am going from memory here so verify.

2 reds go to the 14 pin plug on the relay board #12 & #14. The other 2 go to the cabin. I don't have a sch with me but one goes to the fuse panel and IIRC the other to the column.

great thanks I'll start looking, they both start off in a common sleeve and then I can't tell where they go, I looked from top, see where they go but then can't find them back when I look from underneath

Good thing I refreshed my screen....I almost typed exactly what 76-914 did

The other two go to column and fuse panel, verified.

Pull the 14pin plug and see what happens to draw. You will shorten 2 of the 4 from the equation.

Do all 4 draw current, or only one? I am unclear of this. Once you find the one that does draw, you can see if it is pin 12, 14, in to fuse panel, or the switch in the column. Pull the plug on the column switch, its an easy check, too.

When did this start?

Could it be related to something you did or something that happened?

The fuse panel can short against a bolt on the dash, try loosening the bolts holding it on. Someone posted about this lately...

Good luck!

John

just started 1 week ago, I have only had the car for 3 weeks but was fine for the 1st two

What John mentions is good. If you pull a fuse at a time, it wont effect the short to that bolt as mentioned. Pulling the feed line (big red one) to the fuse panel and then seeing if the draw stops is a quick check for if it is on that end.

Do you have a stereo? Amp?

Put your multi meter on Ohms and "audible continuity" if you have that setting.
The meter will make a beep when the probes have less than ~10 Ohms between them.
Put the meter + on the red wires and the neg on the battery neg.

The meter should be making a tone showing the red wire has continuity to chassis (shorted).

If the meter does not make the tone, the resistance is to great for the audible to be triggered.
Then you would need someone to watch the meter for you.

Now unscrew the fuse panel under the dash and lower it.
Did the tone go away or resistance change on the meter? if Yes, then you are on to something.

In my 71 the power for the fuse panel came up behind the dash from behind the gas pedal up to a terminal block attached to the chassis.
Check there for shorts and you can disconnect the red wires at that point .

HTH

One of the red wires goes to the fuse panel. The other goes to the ignition. The ignition wire also powers the headlights. Maybe you have a shorted headlamp switch and a lamp is stuck on somewhere.

stereo yes, no amp

great suggestion, will try hopefully tomorrow night

you and DrEvil thinking alike, I will try this for sure

great tip, will hopefully be able to find time tomorrow night to look at it, I'm sure one of you guys have it, thanks again for all the help, and please let me know if you think of anything else

Your picture shows the red wires giving the current draw. One looks to be a 2.5mm red wire and the other is a 4.0mm red wire. The 2,5 goes to the relay board and the 4.0 goes to either the fuse panel at fuse 10/11/12, ( they are all tied together on the hot side).
To find out which one it is, disconnect the battery and just use a jumper to ground the fuse panel at 10/11/12 and then read with the meter from ground to the two red wires. If you are reading continuity, that is the wire. If no continuity, the wire goes to the ignition switch at terminal 30. As has been posted, disconnect the plug at the switch and see if the draw goes away. If it does, you have a bad ignition switch. If it doesn't, then you have some searching between the plug and the battery for the problem. Quite possibly a previous owner modification somewhere on the big red wire. Don't forget to remove the jumper used above!
Tom

thanks guys got it, traced it back to the fuse panel but still couldn't isolate the issue, found the switch that was added as a trunk release (PO put a PORSCHE panel between tail light) was sticking closed, 5 pieces of wires all spliced with wire "wrapped" thru lugs on switch

-ripped it all out, rewired and added momentary contact switch, much better

thank you guys for helping me find, electrical is actually one of my better strengths but don't think I have ever had to go thru isolating a circuit that way but was easy with good explanation from you guys

It's always the last place you look