I did a search and didn't see anything. Probably too simple, but I can find a way to screw up the easiest task. I am looking at the factory manual. Replacing the speedo cable sounds easy but the pictures are not too good. Can someone describe the process? My gauges are out. Disconnect from transmission and pull it out? Fish the new one from rear to front?

I believe you only need to replace the inner cable, not the outer sheath. It should simply pull out from the instrument end I think. If it is broken, pull the other half out from the trans. end. Then just stuff the new one back in from the dash end. You need to be sure to get the correct part. I once tried a new cable which claimed to be for a 914 but was too long.

I just replaced mine...entire sheath and all. It was very easy. First..attach some string to the speedo (interior) end and pull the cable out from the rear (after disconnecting from the angle drive of course). Next tie the string onto the new end and pull it back into the car from the front end of the tunnel. Screw back into the speedo and the angle drive and you are done!

Took me about 15 minutes cause you have to do some stuff like remove the drivers side carpet..the little access cover up by the gas peddle on the tunnel etc. Once you pull it through make sure it's not tangled with the throttle cable and clutch cable. But if you use the string to pull it out and back in you should be done!

Jim

I think Jim has the best advice. If cable is broken, or causing an erratic speedo needle, the cause could be the sheath. Likely better to replace both, especially since it sounds pretty easy (as long as the string doesn't break!).

The entire speedo cable (sheath/insides/rubber boots) came as one unit from GPR. Wasn't much money as I recall....and you get those new clean rubber boots that cover the entry into the tunnel and the connection on the angle drive.

When pulling it in get someone else to help "feed" the cable in from the rear.

At one point, the cables were shipped with the rubber "boot" (goes over the tube where the cable passes through the firewall) on backwards. Check that before you start, or you'll have to take it back out again or mangle things...

I just pulled the whole shebang out from under the car, and fed the new one back in from the same location. No strings needed. I did, however, have to remove my center console, the center console change tray/cushion setup, and the center tunnel carpet.

--DD

It wasn't quite as easy for me....
lessons learned:
Wire is stronger than string
Removing center console was required to route cable- it exits near the shifter and runs in a depressed area below the carpet
Remember to zip tie the cable around the engine (I sistered to clutch cable.
Taking out seat reduces contortion necessary.
Hardest part is getting the rubber grommet on at the firewall, but it is tough- use needle-nose pliers.

QUOTE

At one point, the cables were shipped with the rubber "boot" (goes over the tube where the cable passes through the firewall) on backwards. Check that before you start, or you'll have to take it back out again or mangle things...

What Dave said. I got one this week that had the boots on backwards. It's impossible to swap the boot that goes on the body without ripping it. (Ask me how I know! )

I didn't use the string method, I just pushed it through. Be sure to tape the speedometer screw ring on to the end of the cable so it doesn't slip off when pushing it through the tunnel.

One thing I'd add about the string method (actually I used bailer twine...tied and then duct taped)....it almost guarantees that it will go in via the same path it was taken out. If you just push it through you might get on the wrong side of wires/other cables from where it was intended to go..thus removal of all the access panels so you can move it around. If you use a string/wire/cable of some sort you can pretty much keep the same path the old one was in. This is just a trick I learned from doing it the other way on other porsches.

you guys are great. i appreciate your advice. i'll let you know how it went if we get a half-way warm day after the new cable arrives.

I ordered and received from PP speedo cable # 914-641-111-00. At the transmission end of the cable there is no threaded fitting as appears in the factory manual. See picture attached. What am I missing? How is the cable secured at that end?

Thanks for your help!

Sounds like you've got the wrong part. When I received my new speedo cable it had:

1. threaded fittings on both the tranny and speedo side
2. rubber boot for the tranny side fitting
3. rubber boot for the entry into the firewall

I'd give PP a call and see what's up.

Guys, riddle me this--when I was ripping apart my donor--the speedo sheath was new ( cable too?) and I could not for the life of me get that consarded thingy out of the firewall tube!!! I surmised that the speedo ring was actually bigger than the tube--ever hear of this before???

Well, mine slid right out with no problem (speed end fit right through the tube). And my new replacement cable slid right in also (threaded ring and all). Since those are the only 2 I have ever seen..I'm not sure if there are different sizes?

So if you decide to replace your speedometer cable it can be more than the 15 minute job some of the other posts here describe. AC added a level of difficulty. The odometer cable was pulled tight and connected to the AC unit in a way that left no slack. Here are the steps I would do if I had it to do again.
Remove the center console and arm rest.
Disconnect the odometer knob from the AC (tricky)
Remove or just loosen pedal board
Pull the speedometer out
Label wires
Disconnect everything from speedometer
Cut tie wraps and release metal wire secure tabs
You can then replace the cable no pull string required
Put it all back together