Looking to buy (preferably new) injector trigger points for a '71 1.7L.

I have several good used sets for $ 27.50 shipped. New are about $ 175.
Bruce

$30 new on ebay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Porsche-914-VW-Bee...c2a&vxp=mtr

Those are ignition distributor plate and points and he need fuel injection trigger points. Reproductions by AA.

I have one NOS in the box I'll sell you at $125 if you want it.
-Mark

That would be awesome. Just send me the details on the sale.
I'm guessing NOS doesn't mean nitrous oxide, what does that mean in this context?

NOS means new old stock

By the way the set that Mark has are the real deal. There are Chinese ones showing up on ebay that are of unknown quality.

curious as to how long these points last? say in miles driven?

I found the below while searching how to determine if your points need to be

replaced..

""""""""There are several failure modes:

Normal after 5000 miles...

a. the points are pitted
b. the rubbing block is worn down
c. the points alignment is bad (contacts not square with each other)

Other reasons include not properly installed and aligned; and I suppose there are more...fact is, points are a frequent replacement item on conventional ignition cars.

For (a) above, pitting occurs because the condenser isn't the exactly correct value. How do you correct this? You don't but if the pitting is on one side, the value is too big and if pitting is on the other contact the value is too small. The condenser is just right when the points are flat and gray looking and have little evidence of pitting. The rule is: if you see pitting, change the condenser. If you don't see any pitting, leave the present condenser in the system.

For (b) above, lack of lubrication causes more rapid wear of the rubbing block. Lubricate the cam thinly but more frequently, or get a set of points with a self lubricating pad. This decreases the frequency of needed points maintenance.

For © above, try using better quality parts, some points are just made cheap and don't hold alignment over a long time.

Quality caps, rotors and wire are also a wise investment. Poor grades of plastic have low insulating value and break down much faster than normal.

To check a cap: leave wires attached but open and tilt cap so underside is in view. Crank engine and watch internal terminals for signs of sparks or flashing between terminals. This should be done in dark garage where you can see sparks more easily. If you see this the cap must be replaced. If not, it is probably good.

To check a rotor: pull center (coil) wire out of cap, remove cap and hold coil wire over the top of the rotor, 1/4" away from its metal contact tab. Hold the wire with household fuse puller or something insulated to avoid shock. Crank engine in dark garage. If you see a spark jump to the rotor tab, the rotor is bad.

Both the cap and rotor test above check the insulation of the cap or rotor. Seeing sparks means the insulation is breaking down under voltage test.""""""


tks

randal

I think most of that does not apply to fuel injection trigger points.

I have not seen pitting of the points of the many sets I have removed. The blocks can were. I do not see how you can miss along them or install them wrong.