I just purchased a 1974 1.8. I would like the upgrade to motor.

So, 6 cyl conversion or a 2200+cc motor from Raby or Fat Performance?
Obviously the 6 would be more costly but is it worth it?
Raby and Fat Performance both seem to build a quality motor - any thoughts of which would be preferred or is there another source I need to consider?

Thanks for your input.

If I had to go through the process again of building a car, I would do what I did, all over again. -6 conversion is the way to go if you can afford it. Just makes the car a whole lot more driveable IMO, and the sound is glorious...


BTW, this is a huge can of worms topic...

Let me answer your question with a question....


How much money do you want to spend?



Also, what are you looking to use the car for? Do you plan on selling it ever or keeping it until you die?

Obviously i think in most cases if you have the money, most people would say a 6. Personally for what i do, and the money I want to spend, I prefer a warmed over medium sized 4.


6s are generally more appealing to buyers if you plan on re-selling, but i think this may be slowly changing (depends on the buyer).

6s add more weight

6s could be way more power then you need depending on the build

You can easily dump 30k plus on a proper 6 conversion

6 will probably get you better longevity out of the motor for the same power output


2056-2270 4 will probably put you somewhere between 5-20k for the upgrade depending on how you do it. 120-170hp which i think is pretty well suited to the car. Will be much closer to bolt in compared to a lot of if not all 6s. Upgraded 4s can be overlooked as a selling point so you may have a harder time making your money back.

Those are the facts, so really it is up to what you are looking for.

How deep are your pockets? Are you OK with getting upside down on a 914. DD or weekend fun. If you beef up a 4 to compete w/ a small 6 your going to drop 4-7K but you can keep your current suspension. If you go six plan on $$$ for suspension, brakes and cooling. However and as mentioned above you do have a bullet proof 6 that makes a very sexy noise. If you do a water cooled (Suby or other) conversion your a masochist. IMHO, the smart $$$ is spent on another's conversion effort. Shop around. I've seen several 6 cyl Porsche conversions go for < 7K right here. You'll spend that much on a decent 6 cyl/tranny alone. Not to mention oil tank, hard lines, etc, etc.

I thought I wanted a built 4 until I took a ride in a 3.2 -6. Done deal.

I'd like to see more people buy and test McMark's TIV turbo (before I do)!!

Search threads here for "turbo" in the title and McMark as the "person". The Search feature is on the bottom of the top banner, right side, near Help.

You bought a 914 and want to customize it, right? Obviously, you want to be different...so go with a 4-cylinder TIV turbo.

FAT Performance built my 2.2 type IV about 9 years ago and I have always liked the way it ran. I brought them a 2 liter case, crank and not much else so it cost about the same as a used 3.2 with motronic fuel injection when they were done. It would have been an added expense to modify the car for the 3.2 but might have been worth it. My advice would be to install a six if you can afford it. A 3.2 with Motronic FI is a great way to go. I will be converting mine to a six real soon. Pretty soon. Some time in the future. Maybe. One of these days.

All depends on how much money you wanna spend.

I'm gonna with a 2270 4-cyl, but I want to keep the narrow body. If you go with a 6-cylinder, you probably end up spending on flares too (in addition to the suspension, brakes and cooling mentioned above).

To the Original poster.

Make a reasonable offer to Elliott for his motor.
he will sell it.
he needs to put a six in his car...it's just gonna happen.

Don't quote me on this but I would be interested in hearing from someone with more
Knowledge on this

But i think the hottest motor setup is the pauter or potter , yellow karmin via

Any body see it I will try to post link but it Is a monster 4 and expensive - shout out to the cheap sob


I like the philsophy of performance thru lightweight , and that has me fixated on 4 cyclindrr light weight , like aviation style Focus on weight type car


But under the hood that big 6 fan cranking away ,nothing cooler imho

And correct me if wrong but aren't -6 motors , when properly maintain ed$$$$$$$$
- shout out to the cheap sob

Are supposed to be one of the most reliable powerplants ever made . And that is
For me a major consideration to not be taken lightly if confirmed

I had a 2.4L /6 and now have a 2.7L /6. I don't own a /4 anymore.

Don't post while drunk........

http://pauter.com/parts/super-pro/




Although forbadden for my self and the cheacheap sob

Sure is a awesome looking engine but 20 k a bit steep

Then again last guy said he had two -6 s so that adds up to

But is the pauter motor viable for a 914 or simple a vw drag bug
1-8 mile gasserr ???

Give it to me straight people

I've had a few stock 1.7's , restored my 72 and built a big -4 and it was a lot of fun. these cars are fun to drive with any power plant. Now with my -6 and h the 3.0 , I wouldn't have it any other way. one ride in a -6 and your hooked!!! I think the added weight of the six give's the car a more planted feel and its plenty fast

" my father didn't drink , smoke ,gamble or chase women an I wasn't going to either "
The great Ty Cobb

Listen to rtowel. He's right. My car will have a six. Some day real soon. Maybe this year. Or the next, it depends.

Cheapest fun motor is the 2056 with a Raby cam which is about 120hp. Using the Ljet it would be a fun fairly fast 914 for $4000-6000. Compared to a 76hp 1.8L is nearly double the hp.

Any more money and you should go with a six and it's $10000-20,000 depending.

Thanks for all of the great replys and suggestions. It appears that f I can afford it a 6 is the way to go. I do love the sound of a 6 with sport exhaust.

FYI the car I bought already has a very good suspension set up converted to 911 5 lug, konis. sway bars, big brakes, Click to view attachmentetc.

2056 is the best bang for the buck...or you can keep your eyes out for a smoking deal on a 911 engine. I got a working 2.7 for core pricing (seller didn't need the engine as he was building a race car and since he didn't build the engine he couldn't vouch for it).

Even scoring deals on new/like-new parts I'm about $5500 in after selling off my /4 stuff. BUT it would be VERY easy to spend $20k

I am biased because I now have a six(was originally a 1.8). I took one ride in a six and all questions were answered. I have *never* heard anyone with a six say, "I wish I would have went with a big 4.

Wise advice. Go big or go home.

This is good advice

If you want displacent the 4 looses it's cost benefits. Above 2.4 the 4 isn't as cost effective.

Unless it's a racing class your building for

At what level of horsepower, does one need to start considering tires (and thus probably flares) in larger sizes? I am runing 205/60/15's x 5.5" on 2.0L Fuch's which are pretty close to as big as it can get....I have some light rubbing up front on the inner wheel well if I go full lock on a turn.

But where is a reasonable cut-off where you may need to start putting on bigger tires (16x7?) at a certain horsepower?

Of course, you could run a 300HP motor on a non-flared car with 15"x5.5" wheels but you might find the "control" factor and fish-tailing a little too much...

Sounds familiar. Wait a minute. It was you. Yea, your the guy that gave me my 1st ride in a six. So far that has cost me a few K $$$'s.

I run some cheapo 195/65 on 7" Cookies. I can power slide on asphalt, but never had a problem with "control" and fish-tailing. My calibrated foot can control the 175 HP.

I ran my narrow body 3.2 with 16x6's wrapped with 205/50/16's for several years with zero issues. I was running the BFG KDW's. I found them to be an awesome tire. I just upped to wider wheels and went with 225/50/16 Falkens. I would venture to say I had better grip with the 205 BFG's. I'll be going back to them to take full advantage of the wider tire. My point is...go with a good tire and you can stay narrow body and be fine 99% of the time. IMHO.

since you seem to have a Handel for this kinda thing

What's a more difficult install , flares and tires ,suspension etc


Or


Just put in traction control """"""" button