on my 73 2.0.i have 2 -34 webers with original cam,would like more power without rebuilding or changing cam.still have complete original fi,but it was not running when i got it with the fi,so we put on webers.would i do better going back to the fi,or would larger webers work?

I think most would have you go back to the FI. Webers don't help the power side of things really without a cam change, it was a band-aid for broken FI in most cases. If you want more power really you either need to increase displacement and all the work involved there, or swap powerplant. That also is $$$.


*** I will say that if you wanted a boost in power, bumping from 94 to 96mm pistons seems to be a popular choice. I believe this results in the 2056 displacement you see folks talking about on here. Stock FI seems to need some massaging to take advantage of the displacement increase, but it would work.

I just went through the change back to FI on my 2056. My opinion is that without changing the cam, you will always be leaving HP on the table regardless of the carb size. I got a pretty good punch from my 44s. But I have found that even though I have not completely dialed in the FI for my additional displacement, that the FI performs better than the carbs. Yes there are moments when the carbs have the upper hand even with the stock cam, but overall the FI is a better all-around performer if you keep the stock cam. I have the 44s sitting in the garage which will need to find a new home soon so I would like to say buy these and they will solve your problems. But my experience says the FI is the best bet with the stock cam.

Others may have more experience or actual data that says something different but so far I like the FI over carbs with the stock cam. Change the cam and it may be a different outcome.

what do you like better with the fi.

I had 44s on my 2.0 with the stock cam from 1982 to 1987 when it was my daily driver. Never let me down, but it did not have additional power over the fi and it had a few flat spots. drove it across county and no issues. Prior to making the switch I had plenty of fi problems. Now I have a carb cam and what a difference in power.

If this resource of great people here at the world existed back in the 1980s I would never had switched, but back then few people knew how to deal with the fi. If you are going to keep the stock cam go with the stock fi.

Well I like being able to leave the car for days and then reach in and have it start without having to pump the gas pedal and the fact that it always stays running.

Don't miss the gas smell you get with carbs when you put the car in the garage on a hot day after a drive.

I like the fact that I have almost instant throttle response and no flat spots. Better gas mileage. Overall smoother pulls from low and high rpms.

I Ike that once I set something it stays and never gets clogged. I like that if I have an issue there are ways to test the components rather than guessing if your idle jets are clogged or if you are out of sync. You can learn a lot about an FI system with a multi meter.


Anyone else have something?

Soooo. . what about switching back to FI on a car with a carb cam?

I have not done it but I am told that the grind of a carb cam is just not compatible with the stock FI system. I am sure that someone can provide a detailed explanation but the stock FI is a simple system with limited adjustments. The timing of the injector pluses does not play well with the longer lift and duration of a carb cam.

Some of the more modern aftermarket systems are programmable enough to deal with a carb cam. Micro Squirt and such.

the answer to your specific question is: "go back to D-jet"

changing the cam means a total engine teardown = 35 hrs flat rate @ "you name the price of the time" (yours or your shop's) - NO CHEAP however you calculate it

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thanks for all the info,im leaning towars going back to fi,i have the complete system.