Picked up a 76 2.0 for my better 1/2.
It's been off the road for the past -10 years. Motor spins freely and, reportedly, was rebuilt shortly before it was parked (which was due to physical limitations). Paint is heavily oxidized. Brakes were locked up, rotors rust covered. Car had been hit previously, and the resulting bondo has cracked pretty badly.
Interior is nice, seats have no tears or holes. Dash has a couple cracks, but nothing overly grotesque.
As I begin getting this back roadworthy,
Am pulling fuel tank to be cleaned out thoroughly. Replacing all fuel and vacuum lines. Changing oil and trans fluid.
Will go through brake system. See what's good. What's in need of replace or [email]repair.

My question: where can I go for a list of what pieces parts are compatible from year to year in the 914.
Interested in front and rear hoods, top, brake calipers -
Or more specifically, I've a line on a 71 running complete parts car- what will cross over between a 71 and a 76?

Thanks. I look forward to posting pics (when I get them and figure out how they work on this forum.
Rev.

there are a few things that are not the same for early vs late cars. - you fron and rear hood should be able to be used. there are differences in the brakes and suspension bits, look to Eric at PMB performance for the specifics. he is an expert and will tell you all you need to know. if you hve original motor with F>I> the wiring for the motors has some variation as well - again i have a 75, and have not had an early car, but most of what you wand or need will be interchange with 74-76, although even the MPS for the FI will be different,. i am not aware of any one document that would list out the different years/parts and their compatability but hat would be really cool if someone put one together.

Would be a nice addition to my 914 library.

Thanks for the welcome, and for the direction.
What I founds PMB Performance is that 70-72 rotors/calipers do differ from the 73-76. The offset is the factor.

However,if swapped together, they should work.
PMB Performance
Also, the later rotor/caliper set up is compatible with the VW Type 3.
And here's another sheet listing parts and comps
914 parts interchange

Thanks again.
Rev.

Considering the offset- will changing the offset affect what wheels I can run?

First off...its incorrect to think of 914s as 'early' and 'late'. 914s are at least broadly categorized as early / mid / late and the line between those categories can be fuzzy. In reality each year has significant differences.

Some parts can easily swap onto all model years, but some others are 1 year only.

Please leave the running 'complete' 71 alone...let someone else bring it back, don't take one down for a couple of parts. You can find whatever parts you need individually elsewhere.

The tops are different, though if you swap over the seals from your later top to the earlier one, it should work. (A knowledgeable person could probably tell from looking at the underside of the top that it wasn't right, but...)

The brakes are different. Rears are interchangeable. Fronts are not, nor are the front struts and ball joints. (Unless you replace struts, ball joints, brakes as a unit--not recommended, as the later bits are slightly better.)

If you hunt through the Porsche website for a while, you can find "Porsche Classic" and then a PDF of the parts catalog. It isn't perfect, as some parts have been superceded to stuff from later cars that isn't the same, but it does have some information on running changes in part numbers.

--DD

okay, there are a couple tears. But I'm not shedding any tears.

welcome, i'm in central point.

Thanks. Small valley that it is, I'm sure we'll run into each other as some point.

In effort to avoid the procrastinator's thread, yesterday, I pulled the wheels off and sprayed wd40 in the ebrake cables/mechanisms.
Next up,
A)pulling the rotors to have the rust removed
B) getting new battery and assessing the electrical system
C)pulling fuel tank
Or
D) other?

And rear rotors mic out at - 9.75mm
Fronts - 10.4 & 10.2

That's before being turned.

Some late cars equipped with smog stuff may have to pass emissions in some states.
Wiring harnesses are different.
Steering columns are different.
Dashes have different sizes for glove box. And late has side vents.
Kneepads different
Window regulators and side glass different.
Front and rear- side window glass brackets different.
Bumpers different
Brake hose clips different
Transmissions may be side or rear shift.

Welcome! I'm in Cave Junction.

Found the fuel pump. What's the white box?


Tank is t and ll be going to radiator shop for cleaning and sealing


Any thoughts on cleaning the fuel sending unit


Is there a list of hose sizes and types I'll need to replace the entirety of the fuel system?

Verified that the brakes to work. Each rotor locks up; at lest there aren't any frozen cylinders.

Should be a fun drive out there one of these days.

The white box is the fuel filter. That fuel sender might be trashed. I have never seen one with that much varnish. There is probably as much inside which has a sliding float. You can try soaking it a closed container of lacquer thinner. If you are carefully you ca open them up from the bottom. After soaking it turn it upside down and you should hear the float slide to the other end. New ones are pricy at about $160. Sometimes you can find good used ones.

Thought it might be the filter, but, gosh, you think it could have been placed in a MORE inconvenient place? Hw often should they be changed?
How concerned should I be with the fuel pump, there being THAT much varnish in the tank- will that have gummed up the pump?

They do not get change often. You should be able to access it through the access hole for the fuel pump.

So it pays to read, completely, all the parts, charts, graphs, and the check to make sure there isn't anything that's been missed.
rotor thickness
Looked up info on wear limits for rotors. Wanted to see if they were within tolerances not. Followed the link, read the chart and simply presumed that front and rear rotors had same dimensions. Foolish naive, whatever.
Armed with this misinformation. I set ant pricing out rear rotors, believing they were out of spec.
Yestereve, I read further and discovered the chart for the rear rotor specs which puts these certainly within tolerances.
Again- read. Reread. And read some more.

Got fuel line from tank to tunnel out. No real big accomplishment there.
The filter and pump both had turpentine with residual goo. I believe it was in process of turning back into a dinosaur.
Filter will be replaced- no question.
Re the pump- can it be cleaned, soaked in thinner, brake clean? What will ruin the innards? Or rather what WON'T ruin the innards. Or is this sol and I should just source a new pump?

Fuel Tank: there is a copper filter under inside the tank outlet. It's shaped like a sock and designed to keep particles from reaching the fuel pump. You may need a pointed tool to loosen and remove it for cleaning. I just did this and found a fair amount of sediment in the screen; from the look of your fuel gauge sender, there could be a buildup. BTW, the screen are available new if it's really bad

Good luck with the project

$200 to boil, acid wash, and line the tank. In line? Out of line?

Oh, and I got the fuel fittings off the tank, but there was little chance of getting the sock out. Pretty corroded in there. One more to add into the purchase pile.

Report from radiators shop: inside had some rust spots with pin holes. He'll solder those and then line the tank, paint it and it'll be ready for prime time. Pick it up Monday.

AA carries two socks (strainers); one for 70-74, another for 75-76.

111209147A and 113269147

Thanks for the lead and the heads up.
As far as placement- is the sock fitted into the opening that's closest to the midline of the tank?

that would be the correct one.

Sock will be in the outlet that goes to fuel pump...

Picked Up the tank today. Looks good. Clean and sealed on the inside. Repainted on the outside.
Ready to get the rest of fuel line cleaned out- let's do it.

The fuel lines running through the tunnel, back into the engine bay.
What are they made of?
The return line seems brittle at the end. What is the longevity of these? Would one go about replacing them should they be compromised?

They are plastic and probably should be replaced. 40 year old plastic under pressure can leak = fire. Most folks here use stainless steel lines from Chris Foley(tangerine racing) or Rotary914(in the vendor section where I got mine) There's also a shorter set in the engine bay going through the engine shelf underneath the battery. Those are replaced as well.

Thanks, Bob.
What would be the best way of replacing them?
Are they as tic the whole run through tunnel, from the barb fitting to braided hose in the engine bay? Is there a metal section in middle of tunnel?

plastic all the way thru.


did mine with engine in not so hard. need two people . one under car to push tube thru and one in car to help guide so it doesn't get hung up on other stuff in there.

Thanks,
Reading up on the process from Pelican.
Whelp- I guess this means we've got a clean fuel system, front to back.

What stuff is running down the tunnel that needs to be avoided?

And I just fed the 914world write up on same.

Diameter of lines:
I've read of running both supply and return lines in 7/16 ss tubing.
I've also read of doing the return line in 3/8 ss tubing.
And then using 3/8 on supply and 5/16 on return.

What's the difference between the various options.?

Has the door latch mechanisms changed? Or are they same part across the years?

If you look in the front trunk the carpet is cut in a small rectangle. behind that is a plate that the pump attaches to. You can work the pump out from under the tank thru that hole. The filter will come out too. It is not very easy, but it can be done.

They moved the pump up front in 74 i believe, maybe 75. Something to do with fires, or fuel smell in the cockpit.

Looks like you have a good car there. Check the pelican parts site, I think they have a long list in their tech articles on getting everything up to snuff.

just the basics.... fuel, brakes, lubrication and electric. Sounds easy.

Thanks, Malcolm. That's on my list to wrk on today.
Just full of ??? Today-
The top seal that (targa top to se windows): the seal is 23" long while the track is 24". It matches toward the rear, while leaving a 1" gap between the front seal and this one.
Is the problem in the front seal? Or the side seal? It shoes not appear as though the seal has been trimmed- will they shrink? Or symptomatic of bd aftermarket? Or other?

In 75. To cure vapor lock issues. (Which I have experienced a grand total of ONCE in my 74 in the past two decades.)

--DD

Well then. Maybe I misunderstood- plastic lines run the length of the tunnel? Apparently, in its history, someone replaced the lines IN the tunnel with steel but joined them to the plastic via 7/16 fuel hose and hose clamps, inside the tunnel, under the rear access panel.

I inclined to leave them as is.

Well, I put the project of replacing the fuel lines through the tunnel on hold while I ponder this.
Turned to the fuel lines in the engine bay. Picked up the line, trusting what the proprietor said I'd need. Nope, 18" short. Oh well.
In pulling it all apart, pulled fuel rails and injectors, learned that the injectors don't like brake clean. But also discovered the seals were mostly good- except for the last one which had seated cock-eyed- so back to import parts- fuel line and injector seals- but alas, they are closed.
Also, dropped battery off at Les'- they tested, charged for several hours. Never would hold anything. So, I, pick g up new battery tomorrow, and sizing tires too.
Running rivieras, any suggestions/recommendations on fitting in stock height wheel wells?

this is off topic but.... on Weds the 11th part of the medford cruise is the park and shine for imports out at the porsche dealer on hwy 62. Thinking i will take the pumpkin out. stop by if you got time.

ok now back to your regularly scheduled programing

Not quite the length. Below, you can see a photo of a cut-away center tunnel. (Literally cut, I think with a plasma cutter.) Note that the front of the lines are metal, but most of the length of the line is plastic. No clamps, just flanges for a strong friction fit.





--DD

Dave, thanks for the Mage. That helps.
Thanks for the heads up, hndyhrr. May have to find my self out there.

got new battery, checked turn signals, flashers, headlights.
one motor works, the other not. (pass side works)
tried test on the headlight motor - spun the black disc on motor to cause activation:
pass side works,
driver side not.
is this indicative of a bad motor, or no power, or??

thanks,
M

btw - engine bay is redone with new fuel hose.
front fuel lines will be redone when acquire new pieces parts, which are in the mail as we speak.

Getting closer to firing the motor.
Drained oil- about 5 quarts worth
There was a bunch of fuel.
Potential culprit?
Bad rings?
Bad/stuck injectors?


IF we're talking about a bad injector, what are the options for replacement ?
Are type IV injectors compatible?

How to test to determine which injector it might be?

On another note: replaced the broken door latch on driver's door.- closes solidly now.

compression check this am revealed I've got 130-140 psi on each of the 4 cylinders.
Other good news, the car turned over - - however was unable to get oil pressure to build, presuming that the Oil Light should go out after cranking sufficiently to test the compression. I do have the gages in the center console tore apart; might this have something to do with the oil light staying lit?

realized I should have painted the hell hole and the battery tray last night, as now I'm in a holding pattern until the POR 15 dries.

verified that the fuel pump does in fact pump fuel. that's another good thing. so just awaiting a little bit more drying time before assembling and giving a test fire.

and we've got ignition!!!!

however
there's a crack in one of the fuel lines in the engine bay - gonna do hardlines from tunnel into the engine bay - and go from there.

answered one of my questions:
yes, after cranking enough, with starting fluid, the oil system did charge and build pressure: the light went out.

sooo,
on to the next step.


thanks,
Rev/