Well, the I guess I didn't replace EVERYTHING.

For the past week or 2 I have noticed that the key will not activate the starter on the 1st turn. So I turn it back to OFF, then to START with maybe a bit more twist the 2nd try. The 2nd and sometimes 3rd time the starter kicks in and all is well.

That is now over. I went to run some errands after work and the key did not activate the starter. I tried and tried and tried. Luckily I was on a slight hill and was able to pop the clutch to get is running.

Am I looking at a switch issue? Anyone want to throw out their experience with this type of thing?

Thanks,

Clark

Rule out the starter itself by jumping it using the screwdriver method (make sure the car is not in gear).

That is another thing I did not change or rebuild. Alternator yes, starter no. Is that how the starter shows it is going bad?

Clark,

I would bet it is the switch! I went through the exact thing you described. You should rule out the starter by wiring in a starter button. But don't order the cheap switches. I replace 3 of them before I got a good German made one.

No. What he's trying to tell you is that if the starter works when you jump it with a large screwdriver (wear heavy gloves!!!) the starter is fine and the problem is likely somewhere else in the circuit.

Simple process of elimination ...

So if I determine that it is the switch.... where do I get a good German one... and how do I know?

Crap! I don't remember where I got it. Let me think about it.

Also if you can't get the good ones I know how to make one of the cheaper ones a little more reliable.

Add a hot start kit to take the starter load off the new Chinese switch you will end up with. It will help prevent this problem in the future.

Ok HOT START is on the list of future reliability fixes....

I have done the screw driver jump on my boat starter, years ago.... Seems different.

I jumped the 2 large studs and the starter spun... The solenoid did not engage so that is all starter spin and a few sparks. and that is with the key on and the key off.

So how is this supposed to work? IIRC it should engage and the car might start, if the key is on, correct?

Clark

Just order it from pelican. Order 2 as a matter of fact. They are a whopping $8 I think. Really an easy swap. Just pull the steering wheel. Turn signal switch & 2 flat head screws. Out comes the ignition. On small flat head retaining screw & out comes the switch. I have unfortunately done this a few times with my suby. Maybe a 10 min job for me now

Jump the battery cable to the spade terminal under the yellow wire.

Agreed on avoiding the cheap switches.
I bought a Meyle (?) from GPR after trying two "cheap" replacements.
The issue I experienced (with the late model switches) was the fit, they were both loose enough to affect function.

OK that is the ticket. Key off. Yellow wire terminal to the battery wire terminal and it tried to start.

SWITCH, right? Is there any way to test it?

The problemsI usually inside the switch. You can pull the ignition harness off the switch and jump the wires on the back of the switch to verify that the wires are good from he switch to the starter. But I bet it is the switch.

GPR was the place!

I had a host of problems with my starting system, including the switch. I ordered one from GPR. It was plug & play and a pretty easy install.

Well let's hope.. But I ordered 2 moments ago and got some crazy message that it did not take. So I will have to wait 'til the morning.... in CA and call them. Damn part is $7 but shipping is $13. 1 or 2 still $13. Should have bought stock in UPS 20 years ago!


so I have read thru the Pelican DIY on the switch. Lots of bitching about the thing not working. So is the Meyle brand I bought (or will buy) going to work?

they say you can JAM a folded up piece of paper in to shim up the the gap. Notice the gap on the RHS. Is that what they are talking about? Maybe mine just needs a shim!

Click to view attachment

My experience was also that the bottom of the switch flexed and separated. I covered the plastic joints with JB weld and it held for about a month.

This is one situation where you simply procure the switch directly from Porsche. Ja, they're still manufactured in zer Fatherland. I experienced essentially the same symptoms, all were eliminated with a switch that will cost about 40 clams IIRC. Not a complex job, but why do it twice...

I had the same problem a couple months ago. I didn't want to believe that it was something as simple as the ignition switch even though we all know they fail. After tons of headaches and getting stranded multiple times I finally replaced the switch with a cheap one from AA, and haven't had a problem since...starting problem that is.

I didn't need to add any shims with the one from GPR. Just installed it and it worked.

There is a lot of heat generated using the key switch to start the car. Melts/cracks the housing and loses contact.

Install a Ford Solenoid (hot start relay) and eliminate the problem.

Also have had a brand new switch (china) not work out of the box. Had to replace it with a used German one and everything was fine.

This is it...

Click to view attachment

Based on the number it would be a '75 - '76 switch.

Sometimes the prong that engages the electric portion of the switch twists backward from use that it wont rotate far enough anymore. Take a peek while it apart.

Ive had problems with the reproduction key switch. Worked for a month then stopped working. I ended up getting an over the counter key switch and drilling a hole in the dash like the 914 6. I just keep the key in the ignition to prevent the steering wheel locking.

The vw's have the same problem, there are multiple hot start kits available on the samba-

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1119534

Bought Meyle brand from GPR.... @$8. Bought 2, they said it would ship yesterday, Friday, from Cali. That means I won't have it 'til Wed or Thurs here in TN.

I'll just have to work on the sound proofing and the carpet I guess. Cause once that is done, I'll need a stereo and speakers. it will be like a regular car then. Can't wait.

Hope the new switch fixes your problem. If it doesn't, don't be too surprised. These are cars with some years on their electrical systems.
Since I see yours is a 75, you have the seat belt circuit under the passenger seat. It may already have a jumper installed, good idea to do that.
The circuit for the electrical system for the starter is as follows: Power to the key switch comes from the battery positive thru 1 of the 2 larger red wires at the battery positive. After the switch it goes to the seat belt relay, then 14 pin connector at the relay board, thru the board to the 12 pin connector, and then to the solenoid. By using a small straight pin and inserting it into the insulation far enough to contact the wire, you can measure the voltage drop across every connection.
Recently a member found the jumper for his seal belt relay had a jumper with a very small gage wire and he was dropping about 2 volts at that connection. Replaced the jumper with a larger wire and his system was back working.
Check these connections out and you may be driving before Wednesday.
Tom