I have a 75 2.0, replaced the ignition switch and still have no power at the coil, the car cranks and it will run if I run a jumper to the coil. I have already bypassed the relay under the passenger seat. Any ideas would be appreciated
Thanks
Mike

Check if there's voltage at the relay board. It comes out the 12-pin connector at the right-rear; it comes in the 14-pin connector at the front of the board. Black wire, possibly with a red stripe.

--DD

I have constant power but no other wire get hot with the switch, only the red wire at the front of the relay board

From the ignition switch terminal 15 is a black wire to the fuse panel, un-fused side of fuse #9, then black to relay board 14 pin connector pin #8. Comes out at relay board 12 pin connector pin #7 black/red to coil. Since you say you just replaced the switch, check at fuse #9 for power when the key is on.
Tom

I don't quite know where fuse #9 is, however I can say that pin #8 has no power with the switch. I personally have trouble following the current flow diagrams, does anyone know different diagram. I had stared at the current flow in my Haynes Manuel for hours on end and still end up scratching my head. Just incase it's connected, oil pressure sensor isn't working, turn signals don't work but will light up when the car is off and I flip the turn signal lever,( hazards do work). and brake lights aren't working

You read the current flow diagrams as a waterfall. Power in at top and flows down to ground at the bottom where the numbers are.
Fuse #9 is the ninth fuse from the left on your fuse panel under the driver's side dash. Remember to disconnect the negative at the battery prior to removing the fuse panel. Once you have the fuse panel safely hanging, you can put the negative battery cable back on hand tight to do power readings. When the key switch is turned to ON position, fuse #9 should have 12 volts. If not, your switch or wiring from the switch is bad. Since you just replaced the ignition switch, that is a good place to look for a displaced wire or connection that is not good.
Tom

Thanks for breaking that down for me, clears up a lot of confusion. I will be checking that as soon as I get home, I did test the all fuses in the fuse panel the other night and I didn't have any switched power there either, just my constants. I'm really starting to think the switch I got may be bad, I did look to see if it looked burnt or cracked like the old one and it wasn't, but I guess it could still be.

On your fuse panel, the hot or un-fused side of the fuses are toward the relays. Fuse #9 should have 3 black wires going to the hot side. If there is no power to fuse #9, all of the issues you are having as posted in your third post will be affected. I bet there is a displaced wire/connection somewhere near the ignition switch and once you repair that all will be working again.
Remember that when ever we work on our old electrical systems we can sometimes do more damage than we fix just because they are so old. Brittle wires and corroded connections can make a lot of problems we don't even expect.
Tom

Spot on Tom....I have a burnt wire on fuse 9. On of the 3 black wires has the coating burned clear off of it. Now I'm trying to trace it and figure out what happened and how to fix it. There is no power coming to that side of the panel at #9. I'm guessing it should

Here's a picture of it.....any ideas for a quick repair

So I figured it out I think, it's on the powered side so it's a power, I ran a jumper at my switch from the red constant to the black and red wires at the switch a voilà....got my blinkers and my power to the coil....I'm going to repair the wires and change the switch. Hopefully this will fix that problem...now just the brake lights to figure out hopefully

What caused that??? Might be a good idea to check for continuity between that black wire and ground once you disconnect the bat.

That's the million dollar question. I hope it happened when the last ignition switch went bad, it was cracked and had a burnt spot like it had shorted. I am ping to check it for any spots that are grounding

That wire definitely shows some excess heat. As 76-914 says, make sure you check out why it got hot enough to melt the insulation..
Is there any way your coil could have rotated and shorted either side of the electrical connections to ground? AND, have you been troubleshooting electrical issues with the switch to ON for an extended period of time?
If the points are closed while the key switch is ON, it can cause excessive current thru the points and likewise thru the wires that feed the coil. With the car running, the points have a "duty cycle" where they are open almost as much as they are closed. Make a big difference in current heating up the points and wires.
Looks like you may have dodged an electrical fire that could have cost lots to fix. Maybe think of getting a fuse on the 4 red wires from the battery positive. If you look on the electrical diagram for the battery to the key switch and on to the seat belt relay and coil positive, there is no fuse. Therefore the smallest wire in that circuit becomes the fuse. Search for a raised block fuse thread that I started some years ago for some good info.
Yes, with the key switch to ON, there should be 12 volts there at the "hot" side of fuse #9.
Yes, the last key switch could have cause this, still be sure to check what fuse #9 feeds, both on the "hot" side and the fused side. Fused side feeds tail lights ( stop lights) and the oil pressure sender. Something caused this and you need to make sure the problem is no longer there or you may have to go thru this again. I'm sure you don't want that. As always, glad to help!
Tom

Actually just remembered that I had a short off of the coil....(wires were backwards. Oops) and it fried some of the wires, I rebuilt the engine harness but never really thought about it causing a hot wire that far from the coil. I will defintely put a fuse in line there. Thanks again Tom. You've been a blessing, I've been chasing this for a long time