Well, I'm driving my stock 71 1.7 from north AZ. To south Phoenix, and it's going to 108, or higher. My concern is heat and my engine. Never drove it with this type of hot weather. Should I have any concerns .

If you have not relocated the fuel pump to the front of the car you should be concerned about vapor lock.

Next check the operation of your thermostat to be sure it works correctly. If it does not work make sure the flaps are in the full cool position.

Last make sure your oil cooler is free of debris that could block air flow.

Do you have an oil temp gauge?
That is the only way you will know if the engine is getting too hot.

I'm sure each engine is different. I would assume a stock system in good operating order would be OK. My 1911cc with carbs ran hotter than I liked when the temps were over 100F, freeway oil temp hit 250 a couple times. I since added an external oil cooler and switched to Joe Gibbs air-cooled oil and it runs 225F max. Feel free to shoot me a PM if you need any help while in PHX.

Sooooo, what do I look for to c if thermostat is working the flaps correctly, and how are they powered? Or are they heat triggered.

The thermostat expands as it heats up and moves the air flaps via the cable.
Keep your RPMs up on the highway to maintain good air flow and try to minimize any stop and go traffic.

Thanks to all for the info, I'll b checking my thermostat in the morning, and checking everything else, flaps, cable, spring. The info was great to, thanks.

BTW, a cooler full of ice (with a little water) and a dish towel are a lifesaver in that kind of heat. Soak the towel in the ice water, wrap it around your neck.

Vapor lock is not always a problem in that kind of heat. I did experience it in the Nevada desert, but I poured some water into the area above the pump and cooled it to where it ran again.

--DD

See this thread for a good write up on the flaps and thermostat.

when you travel, you should always carry a towel...just saying.

Ron and I traveled thru some of that weather a few years back. His vapor locked but neither his 6 or my 4 ran too hot. A towel is nice but I found something better. Rinse out an old spray bottle of "I can't believe it's butter" and refill with tap water. The sprayer atomizes super small droplets and feels like a mister.

well the cable is broke at spring area, and I pulled #2 plug wire and got a piece of 1/8" tube for for drip system, and I moved the mechanizing cross bar back and forth. The flaps are in open cooling position. I could tell when the flaps were closed and open with the 1/8" tube. So at least I know the cooling flaps are open.

You can go to your local bike shop and get a $5 standard derailleur cable to use as a replacement. That's what I did recently. Works great and the cable is actually just a bit thicker gauge than stock.

If your spring is in place, the flaps will default to the full open position, but I think you proved that to yourself.

You could drive early in the am when its coolest.

While a bit redneck, I often removed the engine deck lid to allow the heat to escape. Slotting your deck lid hinges makes it a quick operation. Just don't leave the stock bolts in place while you drive because they won't be there later!

Mine vapor locked due to the location of the fuel pump and the air dump from the /6 exchangers. No, I haven't moved the fuel pump, but one of these days I will (when I pull the engine ... SS lines and pump up front.)

Air temps were in the 107 - 111 range. Oil temp ran about 220 with excursions to 240.

I drove my six into the Santa Ynez Valley (over the mountains from SB) a couple of years ago and it went from 70 degrees to 105 degrees. There wasn't a good turnaround and by the time I could, my oil temp gauge hit 220+ and my oil cooler seals started leaking afterwards. My car doesn't like that high heat. My recommendation is take a quart of oil with you just in case.

At the very least you could remove the rain tray from the engine lid to get better air flow into the engine compartment.

I see you have been reading the "Hitchhikers Guide"
Always remember - DON'T PANIC!

I thought extra oil was a standard requirement on all 914s?

You could also get a cheap flat electric fan for radiators and mount it temporarily with zip ties to the deck lid after you take off the rain tray. I got one off Amazon for abbot $20.

Dynasty 7 Inch High Performance Blue Electric Radiator Cooling Fan Assembly Kit. 1730 CFM. Slightly generous on the rating but moves a lot of air.

Mike - Are you pulling air out of the engine bay with it mounted to the deck lid or the other way around - trying to blow outside cooler air across the engine?

It is impossible to overcome the force of the impeller at highway speeds. So if you anticipating mostly highway I would blow in. At idle you could see some benefit in pulling air out but not much. The actual impact of something like this won't be huge but it can help.

Here is the link to that fan.

There are much bigger ones but this one fit my application fairly well. It can push or pull.

Thanks Mike - that makes sense. I would only use it at speed - going up long grades where the temp tends to climb after about 10 minutes and still climbing. I usually grab a lower gear to increase RPM and likewise impeller speed but it doesn't always help. I probably wait too long and the engine becomes a big heat sink.

You'll be fine, the only thing to avoid is a bunch of stop and go traffic.

Well made the Phoenix trip with no problems. My average speed was 80-85, except Phoenix area. Arizona transaxle repaired the first gear problem. I'm very happy with my trans. When I got home, I adjusted the shifter linkage, and that was a lot easier than it looked. Thanks to all the input from 914 world. My shifting pattern is very good, and easy to shift through all the gears. I learned a lot on this site.