I need your opinions about another possible project.

I have a solid tub (done work: small hell hole repaired, jack post fixed and racer chris heim rods installed).

Planning to install front and rear sway bars and running 195 tires.

I'm looking to build a solid handling street car not a race/track.

Question: Do I really need the long kit or will it be just a overdose?

Thanks,
Dragan


PS running 140lbs springs in coil over and solid trailing arm bushings - if it matters.

I guess it all depends on how aggressive your driving style is. The kit will strengthen the chassis and reduce body flex.

Your description of the condition of your car is very similar to the condition of my car, pretty good, I think. I run my car very hard in auto-crosses about 16 times per year and I don't see a need yet to do stiffening. Maybe some braces or something, but not stiffening for what I do, at least at this point. Hope this helps. Put that money elsewhere.

Thanks! That's the real world experience I was looking for. I know stiffer is always better but it also depends of the occasion.

My wife's 914 has been autocrossed for close to 30 years, and driven daily to work during that time. It does not have a chassis stiffening kit. Granted, we are considering it now. But if the chassis is solid, and you just want a stock street car, then I would spend the money elsewhere.

I would think that it might matter what you are running for an engine? Six or four? My thought is the chassis stiffening kit is fairly inexpensive and does not appear to be a huge project to install. If you have a six or intend to install a six, seems reasonable to me.

No.

Necessary: Not at all if your longs are solid.

Recommended: By some. Not by others.

Would I do it: I did on both the cars I've built.

YMMV, but there are a lot of people that like it, others don't. All personal preference if you ask me.

I have Brad Mayeur's kit on my conversion car, but my factory -6 is all original. There is definitely a difference in the feel of the two cars, but unless you're seriously racing or tracking the car, I wouldn't bother.

Thanks for all the good inputs.

Just to complete the description, I will be running a 2056, 9550 cam, aftermarket FI and a tangerine exhaust. Hence, around 130hp - I hope, haven't dynoed the car yet.

I don't really think the engine and hp matter too much in that range. It should be a fun car to drive regardless.

What are your driving intentions? Here's my opinions.

Sat/Sun? No.
Daily Second Car? No.
Daily Driver? No.
All of the above plus some autocross? Probably Not.
All of the above plus a lot of autocross? Maybe. Why not?
Autocross/DE? Yeah sure.
Track only? Yes.

Stressed to the limits of modern tires and technology, these chassis will begin to tear. Bad bushings on JamesM's autocross car here left him with a torn chassis. High horsepower on Bob Seville's car left him with a torn chassis.

That said, I'd probably go for a roll bar/cage and a factory kit over a long kit (but you will enjoy your car much more without an intrusive cage setup). Stable Energies makes a decent bolt in cage but getting the top on and off is a monumental task. I have a GT style bar with side supports that go to the A-Pillars. It was a "huge" difference once that was bolted in. It's a Cirque du Soleil act getting in and out. Also, cages and bars can be more dangerous in a street car than without. Improper padding can net you a serious head injury in an accident so... put a lot of thought into this one.

I commend you for asking... it's the first step toward making the right decision.

Mostly tires. Race tires will literally tear the tub in places...

Great Eric, now you have me thinking about getting a GT roll bar setup. :-)

The first thing to tear with race tires is the rear suspension console. Mine tore twice in two years before I added console braces. Now I run console braces on my race car and track car. My two cents would be to add console braces on a car with tire below 100 wear rating. That is probably all I would do for a street car. If you turn into a track or full race car then the cage is next

as you describe your car,not necessary to add.

Great discussion! Since I already have your attention: how about the roll cage setup/configuration? I'm aware about the risk driving w/a helmet and getting banged up.

Also, I like the cage installation ovet the weld in kit - less heat.

Not looking for a full cage, but rather a "short" GT style - I'm thinking that the side triangles will help stiffness and during side impact crashes.

How about just the rear loop? Is this more for looks or also functional?

Second, do I need to use some aftermarket seats e.g. Racaro, in order to protect my noggin in case of a rear impact?

Thanks again!



PS: attached internet sourced pics for the GT/Recaro and loop setup.

I am in the process of add them as I type this message. I had the interior out to fix the heater switch and replace the carpet. I also resealed the back window while in there. So it was just a little ezra effort for the stiffeners. Mine is a 75 Daily Driver that I push hard in turns and corners. It does not have great power for anything but that. I installed a 19 mm front sway bar and sock rear with 100 lb springs. I figure anything that will help prevent "frame sag" on a convertible/targa is a good idea. I got about 200 buck in this so it will not break the bank either way.

Added the door seals from 914rubber and the German loop carpet from Mark too with the new Visors GB installed the inside of this classic is Looking Good
Robert



pics in a minClick to view attachment

more pics .

this is not a hard project I would say on a 1-10 iscale ts a 5-6 if you have a welder and can make things stick....in my case I had to be in there any way..

fits neatly under the carpet and sound pad, no one will know its there



Best Robert


Test drive of the new stiffeners will be later this weekend ;-)

The side impact laws started in 1973. So if you’re worried about that you’ll want 1973 or later doors. The 914 was a fresh design, and the US crash laws were taken into account from the beginning. If you look around here at the pictures of bent 914s the front and rear deform and absorb the impact. And the passenger compartment stays fairly intact. And the stock seats with headrests are already designed to save your neck, along with knoggin.

I just got back from my initial test drive with the stiffeners installed, and while I am not a "driver" of sorts cars, I can tell there is a change in the way the car handles. I am not sure its better or worse then before but there is a change. I took a while to get used to the rear say bar after it was installed . It changed the way the car points in the turns. Better /worse is up to the driving style of the driver. There is a SOLID Quiet feel to the way it handles in the sharp corners (top off). In my case I would say it was money well spent. You have to push it really hard in the turns to see any difference. Typically most will not gain anything but pice of mind.

Robert

I did mine. I didn't really need it but then I again, I didn't really need any of the things I have done to the car. I didn't need 165lb progressive rear springs, turbo-tie rods front sway bar etc. If the car is a hobby like mine is and you like doing stuff to it like I do, then do it. Everything I have done makes the car more fun to drive. You will notice better handling with the stiffening kit. If you decide to do it, make the holes bigger and you will get stronger welds. Good luck and have fun with your car.