So with some simple green and my scrub brush collection I have the two front fan housing pieces dirt and grease free, but it still looks like crap. Is there a method to getting these to clean up or is there a paint color that looks original and is acceptable to use?

Thanks - Chris

Chris,

They were always even when new just an anodized aluminum casting, which was sort of dull.

It might help if you post some pix of what it looks like now. tod914 is in NJ & may be close to you, or Pat G pig is in Philly & Dave Cheek is somewhere around there too - as some local CW resources.

If you want original for concours, then you probably want to use a few passes with the "soilant green" & brushes, & for difficult stuff or aged patina beyond the "new anodized dull aluminum" look - maybe gently try some wet super fine 000 or 0000 brass wool (softer than steel wool for the softer aluminum) to take off the top film of oil-slicked-grunge. If you go too far & hard it will polish up quite nicely - but that's not original, so try in a small area inside the shroud if off the engine, or in an area that won't be easily seen in judging.

PCA will judge your engine for street, restored & full concours classes (names for each will vary by PCA Zone, so check your NJ & PA etc. area rules). Check out the PCA Zone 8 Concours section for a bunch of "how to prep" pdf docs etc. that you can download, and try to go to a local Concours Prep/Detailing class offered by PCA &/or other car clubs (AACA, VACA, etc. & local clubs).

Other classic car groups CdE rules vary & some are more stringent on originality than PCA is - where PCA's originality only comes into play at the national "Parade" & regional Zone levels' awards - especially for tie-breakers only at Zones.

If you're not looking for the full CW & just nice, you can either go aggressive with medium 0 - 00 the fine 000 & 0000 steel wool then finish with the softer 0000 brass wool for a shiny polished aluminum look, or use something like the Rustoleum "Aluminum Metsallic" paint (remember that you cannot clear coat it, so water & other liquids may spot onto it).

Neither of these are correct originasl look, but are passable for resto-mod, DD & street cars for local "just for fun" car show purposes.

Cheers!
Tom
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I like to use the cleaner that comes with POR-15. It is called Marine Clean. Man that stuff will do some cleaning.

But at the same time the good ole sand blaster knocks everything off. If you have a compressor, get yourself a blasting gun from Harbor Freight or the like and take all the paint off of it.

As far as the paint goes, I did not go ORIGINAL. I bought some rattle can engine paint from AutoZone, painted the tins, let them dry, then put them in my wife's oven at 275 for about an hour. The paint might have a temp on it that they recommend.

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Well I just happen to be dropping off some 911 heat exchangers at the a the sandblasters this afternoon and having these parts in my trunk as well I let him go at them as well. They were grease and grime free before and now they are one continuous silver color. As much as I love the look and the neatness of the painted versions I think I am going to spread some Wurth "Cosmoline" on them and see how that does. Should be similar to original and stop it from changing back to crap. It is either this or just some light steel wool and a high temp satin clear coat.
Anyone see any issue with either of these approaches?