Lately when driving the car seems as if my feet are hitting each other when on the clutch and brake at the same time... funny my feet are not that big lol. I've attached a pic of what i found this morning when i went looking at the pedal assy. so my question is .... if i clip the bailing wire that the po put on there can i just slip the pedal off and clean it up find the right size roll pin and put it all back together or will i need to pull the whole assy? Was planning on re building it this coming winter, just want to drive the pumpkin now that it is nice out side.

thanksClick to view attachment

oh and i can see that it moves on the rod when i press it down a little

Can you grab the pedals and move them to the left and right?? If so, pull the whole assembly out and rebuild it. probably needs new bushings as well as the roll pin replaced. .Easy Saturday job. .

yup

guess i will order parts and tackle it

thanks

Looks like the roll-pin is still in there

You'll need to remove the whole pedal assembly, stick it in a vice and punch the roll pin out. Then the hard part - getting the arm off the shaft. They're usually rusted on. You may need to heat the arm up with a torch to expand it enough to pull it off the shaft.

If going that far, you might as well install a new bronze bushing set too

looks that way but when i push on pedal with my hand it travels to and fro a little bit so hopeful not stuck on shaft.

guess i know what i will be doing when parts get here

thanks

....History is made to be "broken" take it out(assy)& fix it right!

Some if you guys must type faster than me

The problem for the most part will be the nylon bushing, which may be almost nonexistent. .
get a bronze bushing set. . it's a straightforward project. . If the existing roll pin is in there loose, you may need to get a larger size and redrill the hole accordingly. . It needs to be a very snug fit. .

I would not re drill the shaft to a larger hole if the roll pin is loose. It will result in weakening and cracking the shaft. Remove the pedal set and take it apart. If the shaft is worn wear the lower clutch pedal attaches than replace it. As toolguy said it must be a tight fit. I have extra parts if you need them.
Bruce

Don't mistakenly use a nail set instead of a drift. It will flair some and lodge more tightly if you do.

ok so pedal cluster is re-built and back in car (almost ) here is next question, how do i adjust the cable to the clivus thing. i loosed the nut and had to unwind clivus to get it to go onto pedal cluster and now there is too much slop in pedal. or do i put it back the way it was (clivus and nut) and have to eat dirt and as the husband to help me by somehow grabbing onto the clivus and tugging it forward to get the pin in?




been playing with it for a couple of hours and can't get it.


any suggestions are welcome

thanks
Click to view attachment

You don't adjust the clutch there. . just be sure and get at least 6-8 threads into the clevis.
Adjust the clutch at the transmission. . sometimes you might want to add a steel tube over the cable threads before the 2 11mm nuts to take up free cable. .

and this will take up the slop in the pedal? travels about 3 inches before i can feel it do anything when i push it with my hand

Does your pedal have the spring so that the pedal pulls down with no cable attached?? That's the way it is suppose to be. . . . Your picture shows the pedal in the fully upright position but I can't see if the cable is attached. .

Tightening the cable at the trans will pull the pedal up to where you have the top 1/2 inch play.
At rest, the arm should be angled forward towards the engine when the T/O bearing makes first contact with the clutch. . {That's what the ball shim exercise was to adjust}
If the trans end of the cable's 11mm nuts go too far down, add a metal thinwall pipe to extend where they sit on the cable

Properly adjusted, you should feel resistance immediately when depressed. .
If the cable is really too long, and you have excess play when depressing the pedal, this is a sign the bosen tube had broken lose, at the rear body bulkhead or in the body tunnel and is flexing under strain.

no cable attached in pic.

lower arm is tight. don't have clutch fork yoke, will get under there this afternoon and tighten it up.

thanks guys
much appreciated

with no cable attached to the pedal, the spring on the clutch pedal shaft pulls it down, not up. . . . it should not stay in the upright position if the pedal assembly is properly assembled. .
the cable tension from the pressure plate is what pulls the pedal back up..

in my pic the clutch pedal is laying on the back wall not up by brake pedal

Sorry my error, it looks correct in the picture. . .

With the clevis connected, go back to the trans, connect everything around the roller pulley, and start tightening the 11mm nuts until the pedal is pulled up to within 1/2 inch of it highest possible place. .

That 1/2" clearance allows to throwout bearing to 'gently' ride on the pressure plate. . . add the other 11mm "pal" lock nut. . you should feel an almost immediate resistance of the pressure plate springs when pressing the pedal. . not mussy, it's a solid resistance of the pressure plate fingers being depressed. .

Grab the solid end of the cable at the transmission end with a pair of vise-grips. That will allow you to pull the cable against the pedal spring so you can get it to where you can get the (crap, the word escapes me!) fulcrum thing up onto the throwout lever.

The vise-grips are also useful to keep the cable from twisting while you're trying to tighten or loosen the adjusting nuts.

The plural there is very deliberate--I always double-nut the cable, because I have had single Nyloc nuts back off and mess up my clutch engagement.

--DD

thanks
will let you know