the motor is idling on five cylinders...

Good off idle. comes up to 7300rpms fast.

The dead hole is driver side center ( #5? )

I squirt cleaner down the barrel at idle and it picks up.
So it gets spark and will burn. Not getting any fuel at idle.

Cleaned all the idle jets.

What's next?
Help me get happier.

KT

95% of the time, this is either a fouled plug or a plugged idle jet.

Did you remove the suspect jet (#5?)from the holder, hold the jet up to a light & look thru the hole....lengthwise?

Did you pull the plug, attach the plug lead, then ground the plug, and spin the motor?.....should be a nice fat spark (only do his with a cold motor & keep off the gas....ya don't even wwant it to start )

Are you *sure* it's #5?

Before you pull the carb off, disassemble it and clean it try one more attempt to clean #5s idle circuit.

The carburator (I'll assume 40IDA 3C) has a air intake on each idle circuit thats part of the top cover. Manuals reference it as as bush or air venturi.

Some carb cleaner sprayed into the idle jet hole will validate weather this is open. Don't try to clean this port with a probe as you will very likely disturb dirt and drive it into the circuit.

- Pull the air cleaner and remove the jet holder and idle jet.
- Get your favorite carb cleaner with an extension tube so you can concentrate/extend the spray easily into the idle jet hole in the carb body.
- Place a shop rag on top of each idle circuit you are cleaning, directly over this air port. Fluid will squirt out of the hole if it's clear.
- Spray carb cleaner into the hole. You might also hold a small shop rag under each circuit to catch excess spray.

If the carb is really dirty and you have an idle circuit stopped up it's probably time to clean them both.

Another indicator of contamination in the carb can be found at the bottom of the float bowls. Pull the drain pugs and carfully catch the gas. Inspect it for contamination. If you see evidence of dirt here you can be pretty sure it's trying to getting to the idle circuit as well.

Good luck!

Try a $1.98 tune up.
Rev it up and hold it at 3500 rpm the take a rag and cover the intake of the dead hole .
This will creat vacuum that may clean out the crud.

QUOTE (a914guy @ Jan 19 2005, 07:53 PM)

Before you pull the carb off, disassemble it and clean it try one more attempt to clean #5s idle circuit. The carburator (I'll assume 40IDA 3C) has a air intake on each idle circuit thats part of the top cover. Manuals reference it as as bush or air venturi. Some carb cleaner sprayed into the idle jet hole will validate weather this is open. Don't try to clean this port with a probe as you will very likely disturb dirt and drive it into the circuit. - Pull the air cleaner and remove the jet holder and idle jet. - Get your favorite carb cleaner with an extension tube so you can concentrate/extend the spray easily into the idle jet hole in the carb body. - Place a shop rag on top of each idle circuit you are cleaning, directly over this air port. Fluid will squirt out of the hole if it's clear. - Spray carb cleaner into the hole. You might also hold a small shop rag under each circuit to catch excess spray. If the carb is really dirty and you have an idle circuit stopped up it's probably time to clean them both. Another indicator of contamination in the carb can be found at the bottom of the float bowls. Pull the drain pugs and carfully catch the gas. Inspect it for contamination. If you see evidence of dirt here you can be pretty sure it's trying to getting to the idle circuit as well. Good luck!

Well LOOK who showed up?????

Long time......

What about taking the idle jet out and blowing compressed air into it to dislodge clogs? I'm talking out my ass here.

QUOTE (Type 4 @ Jan 19 2005, 07:57 PM)

Try a $1.98 tune up. Rev it up and hold it at 3500 rpm the take a rag and cover the intake of the dead hole . This will creat vacuum that may clean out the crud.

Instead of a rag try using something that wont get sucked in if you let go accidently. Don't ask......

Mike D.

Trekkor, we like it when you're happy...not like you just finished up a 500 SF kitchen in Brazilian Blue
Rich, (a914guy) good plan of attack on the carb- and thx for getting my parts out this week !
If this engine ran around in a sand buggy in its previous life, contaminination is likely.
Marty

Good advice here...As always

I did rebuild and fully clean the carbs prior to installation.

However, I listened to the speed shop guy instead of checkin' in with my 914 pals. When I assembled the fuel hose barbs into the pump am regulator I used Permatex pipe compound. It may be in everything.

Tomorrow I'll chase it again. thanks for the help, bros.

KT

No sealer of any kind on the carbs or fuel line.

Ahhh, no way!

I used Permatex gasket dressing on my carbs, too.

KT

I have seen this quite a bit.

In my experience, this problem is always caused by using carbs on a Porsche engine.

It's OK, though. The engine will run like new after fitting fuel injection.

(sorry, I'm really bored in my hotel room)

QUOTE

(sorry, I'm really bored in my hotel room)

I will get you.

KT

QUOTE (Gint @ Jan 19 2005, 08:43 PM)

No sealer of any kind on the carbs or fuel line.

Yep, bad, bad, bad. Carbs have too many tiny holes and galleys. A spec of dust just about clogs them up!

QUOTE (trekkor @ Jan 20 2005, 12:04 AM)

Ahhh, no way! I used Permatex gasket dressing on my carbs, too.

Way.

No permatex on carb gaskets, either. Sorry dood.

QUOTE (trekkor @ Jan 19 2005, 11:04 PM)

Ahhh, no way! I used Permatex gasket dressing on my carbs, too. KT

If you hear a very loud whirring sound coming form NorCal... its just Capt'n Crusty's head spinning......

"Use Permatex on your Carbs and YOU WILL DIE!!!!"


Seriously.. no sealer of any kind on the carbs, Period.

I think I hear trekkor beating some against something? Sorry Trekkor, couldn't resist. No worries man, you will get it.

On the other hand... check the resistance of your plug wires. If you get something like 3000 ohms, you'll know that you need to run out to your FLAPS, find some old chebby wires, cut the ends off of them, and install your 914 ends.

Voila... el cheapo plug wires! Warrantied for the first 5 miles you drive the car!

Soooo, the expanding foam would be bad as a sealant for the air filters, too.



No one's that dingy...

KT


( new plugs and wires OEM $$$ )

Yeah, OEM plug wires are over a hundred bucks for a stock /6. More than 150 for a later 911 motor.

Seriously, if you have wires with the angled (plug) ends, save them. I'm looking into replacement wire now.

P.S. Make sure you have no ladybugs in your carbs. That tends to affect drivability.

QUOTE (Lawrence @ Jan 20 2005, 01:05 PM)

P.S. Make sure you have no ladybugs in your carbs. That tends to affect drivability.

What was the ladybug doing in your carb????? The backstroke maybe?