I have read several threads concerning the rear trunk lid not lining up seems like in most cases the hinge side of the trunk sits high and the latch side seems mostly flush. I have the opposite going on the hinge side is maybe 3/16" high but the latch side is closer to 1/2" high
so does this look like a failing hinge mounting plate or a sheared bolt or something else
I have checked the rubber stops they are screwed in all the way the latch plate seems to be as low as it can go

ah ha. just noticed previous repair of hinge mount on d side so I assume it didn't go back in the right spot?
now a matter of cutting the repair & rewelding I guess?
car is pretty original so I'd rather go stockish rather than jwest/camp914 route
and can it be done without complete disassembly? I just got this car so I'd rather not drop the engine & trans etc. I adjusted the p side rubber stop out a little and that helped the d side latch end of the trunk but hurt the p side now they both sit about 1/4" high at the latch end of things
no pics cause they kept turning out upside down - how do you fix that?

well I thought I removed the pics...

It might close better if you car wasn't upside down.

If the pivot point was previously broken and repaired in the wrong place, it could cause your issue. You could remove the shoulder bolt and see if it sits better. Be careful with the tension rods!

thanks mike
yep gravity is not my friend
when you say remove the shoulder bolt and see if it sits better you mean just to check right? not to leave it in that state if it does help
thanks
cjl

Yes just to check. If it fits better, you may need to cut and weld the bracket into a new position.

Before you start cutting and welding, you might want to check one thing. My car had the same problem as yours, however I discovered it's because the mounting point on the trunk lid for the top part of the latch was bent, causing the trunk lid to sit crooked. I removed the top part of the latch, and now it sits perfectly flush. I've left it off, because surprisingly there's enough tension in the torsion bars to keep it from bouncing even on bumpy roads. Not even a rattle!

If that is the case, I would make a plate to bolt in place of the latch that could be used to lever/twist the mounting surface back to level. I am not sure I would like it not being latched all the time. If you used a heat gun first to warm the metal and paint, I think it could be done enough to not damage the paint.

thanks for the alternate theory will definitely check that area for level/plumb/true and anything else I can before any cutting and welding goes down
I'm not a welder so it'll have to be farmed out to a local pro or someone who knows what's up