http://www.ebay.com/itm/261528299537?_trks...K%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

These in Evilbay, anyone know of quality , other comments ???

On the 911 80mm sets Henry at Supertec has had good luck, but and it's a big but, he goes through a whole skid to mix and match just a few sets.
He's also big on surface finish and I suspect he then has them honed to his spec.

He then sends the rejects back and they get sold you know where.

Keep in mind that that price is less than the cost of just the plating on the LN Engineering units and then you have to shell out $1000 for the JE pistons.
Then you are forgetting the cost of ARP headstuds which are required on a nickasil cylinder.
LN Engineering may cost more but they do stand behind their products, don't expect any after sales support from QSC.

On a side note I could have cheeped our and tried to reuse my 3.0 mahles, but it would have been false economy. Instead I had them replated by LN.

IMO stick with 96mm KB's in the stock bored out cylinders or pay the price of the LN's.

If your looking for type 4 P&C , I would look at European Motors in Hawthorn Calif.
Their P&C comes with JEs. The quoted price of $1000.00 is for a -6.

Actually, I believe that Nikasils are fine with steel head studs. It is the LN Nickies that specify ARP Head Studs which adds more big $$$$

John

So now we are talking 911, often stock induction, low budget, used cylinder, low CR stock piston, low HP builds, with an engine that has a superior head stud pattern and that still the factory stubbornly held on to problematic divilar studs because they had the correct expansion rate.

I doubt if you will find a single 911 pro builder using a 5K P&C set that will use a set of stock steel studs.

If you are not looking for more HP than why the hell would you even do this?

Actually, all the pro 911 engine builders I know, and I'm one of them, switched to steel studs years ago. Dilavar studs are known to fracture in use, often at unreasonably low hours.

The Cap'n

I thought the OP was about Type 4 Cylinders.

Doesn't almost everyone use steel studs on Type 4. I didn't think many of us were springing for LN Nickies.



On my 2.7 build I plan on reuseing my Nikasil's with higher compression JE's and carburation. I will not reuse the old steel studs, but probably buy new ones.
I am not convinced I need $600.00 studs and $3000,00 cylinders. But I do not have experience enough to advise others. My engine, so I will do what I want.

I do know if you use LN Nickies, on a 4 or 6 cylinder, they want you to use ARP studs.

Exactly!

The Cap'n is missing my point (as usual) on a 911 steel studs will work on an econo or stock build, didn't say they wouldn't. I imagine this works if all you do is stock engines and of course you just use the stock studs. But Porsche knew there was an expansion rate difference or it would have never stuck with the divillar studs on the bottom row. Many builders still use the super expensive 993 divillar studs on high end builds. Others swear by ARP, etc.

On a type 4 clamping force becomes even more critical because of the large pattern with one stud spaced out and different length studs. This head stud issue is why they say "you can't turbo a 914/4".

Again lets be honest, 102mm cylinders is not something you would ever use in a stock build so making this comparison is a apples to oranges argument.


BTW I find it funny that the Cap'n would put all steel studs in an 911 engine but steadfastly swear that type 4 head gaskets are the only way it can be done.

My Bug engine has 102mm nickies, custom JE's and ARP studs, there are more than a few members here running them.
Stock studs work fine with 96mm cylinders, but iron 103's don't last long and the downfall often starts with sealing issues.

Sounds like a nice engine Mark.

I would love some Nickie's but my Mahles are in spec so I can not justify putting g the money there.

John