Is is possible to pull the transmission without pulling the engine? I know that everyone says it only takes an hour to pull the engine, but trust me it would take me a lot longer than that since this would be only the second time.
All I need to do is check to see if the flywheel is interfering with something and keeping the engine from turning. If it is, I will have to pull the flywheel and (probably) shim it correctly.
I was hoping to save the time of pulling off the carbs and the wiring.
Thanks,
Ken
Full Version: Pulling the Transmission
Yes ...
Jack under engine for support.
Remove muffler / hanger, clutch cable, speedo cable and starter.
Remove tranny support bolts ... the four not the two big ones.
Lower engine so that you have about 1" - 2" clearance at the body tranny mounts.
Unbolt CV joints at tranny and wire them above the tranny.
Unbolt tranny from engine and pull it out ( nice to have two people as it is about 86 lbs wet).
Jack under engine for support.
Remove muffler / hanger, clutch cable, speedo cable and starter.
Remove tranny support bolts ... the four not the two big ones.
Lower engine so that you have about 1" - 2" clearance at the body tranny mounts.
Unbolt CV joints at tranny and wire them above the tranny.
Unbolt tranny from engine and pull it out ( nice to have two people as it is about 86 lbs wet).
QUOTE(SLITS @ Jul 19 2014, 11:35 AM) 
Yes ...
Jack under engine for support.
Remove muffler / hanger, clutch cable, speedo cable and starter.
Remove tranny support bolts ... the four not the two big ones.
Lower engine so that you have about 1" - 2" clearance at the bpdy tranny mounts.
Pull tranny out ( nice to have two people as it is about 86 lbs wet).
Don't forget the ground strap!!
QUOTE(SLITS @ Jul 19 2014, 11:35 AM)
Jack under engine for support.
I suggest a jack stand under the engine. I had a floor jack sag overnight while supporting the engine, and it tore the rubber engine mounts due to tilting down that far.
--DD
--DD
If the problem ends up being in the fan housing, then you will need to pull the engine anyway.
Since your car is carbs, it is even less trouble to pull the engine than with FI.
But yes, I pulled the tranny only recently.
Ironically used my tranny jack to hold the engine up for the ~month the trans was out.
It is a screw/scissor type jack, so it couldnt sag.
Since your car is carbs, it is even less trouble to pull the engine than with FI.
But yes, I pulled the tranny only recently.
Ironically used my tranny jack to hold the engine up for the ~month the trans was out.
It is a screw/scissor type jack, so it couldnt sag.
Thanks for the info guys.
I realize that I may still have to pull the engine, but my feeling is that it is the flywheel that is the problem.
I think I will use a scissor jack under the engine and a transmission lift to lower the transmission.
Thanks again.
Ken
I realize that I may still have to pull the engine, but my feeling is that it is the flywheel that is the problem.
I think I will use a scissor jack under the engine and a transmission lift to lower the transmission.
Thanks again.
Ken
Ken...
Yes removing just the tranny can be done.
But since you have done it before.. removing the whole package will be easier.
No need to remove the carbs.....just get the car up a little higher to have the clearance out the back end.....
I've done both ways many times and it is just best to have the whole thing out as there is usually something else to check.
Have fun be safe!
Yes removing just the tranny can be done.
But since you have done it before.. removing the whole package will be easier.
No need to remove the carbs.....just get the car up a little higher to have the clearance out the back end.....
I've done both ways many times and it is just best to have the whole thing out as there is usually something else to check.
Have fun be safe!
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