Did a search on 914World and found this:

Drain the fluid Take off the CV joint on the side you're replacing. Undo the bolt in the center of the stub axle that holds it in place. Remove the stub axle. Remove the seal WITH A SEAL PULLER! It's really easy with that $5 tool. Put in the new seal and put the stub axle back in. Torque the bolt to the appropriate torque (Haynes) and reconnect the CV. Make sure both roll pins are in your CV, you use a good CV gasket, and you have CV bolts with the Schorr (?) washers. DONE! Should be able to finish in 3 hours max.

A couple of questions:

I have new seals, schorr washers, a 12 point socket plus new bolts.

The paragraph mentions "Make sure both roll pins are in your CV." Can anyone explain what that means? Picture would be helpful. I also have some new CV grease. Would it hurt to put some in.

I have new gaskets but when my engine was resealed three years ago and he put everything back he used some kinda sealant instead of CV gaskets. They have never leaked. Can anyone recommend instead of gaskets.

Thank you in advance for your response.

The roll pins are "rolled up" sheet metal to form a pin.
There should be two pins sticking out from each CV joint where they mate to the trans flanges or the wheel hubs.
They take up two of the 6 holes in the CV joints.
The bolts take up the other 4 holes.

Here are some good pics:
http://www.pbase.com/9146gt/the9146gt_susp...s_cv_joints_new

you can use silicone sealant in place of the paper gaskets, but it is a major PITA to get it on without making a huge mess and mixing the sealant in with the CV grease.
I have pics of the process at home that I can get later.
You can put some new grease in the CV while you are there.
ANd inspect your boots for cuts/tears.

Thank you so much for responding. Great pictures. Really helps a lot!