Man, I hate electrical problems. A month ago on the way to auto x my car died in a Carl's Jr parking lot. Turned the key, nothing, but the lights and all auxiliary stuff worked fine. I hadn't even stopped to get food, so it wasn't like the car was protesting against my eating habits. After posting on here, I bump started it and carried on with my day, and apart from having to bump start it again after tech inspection (not embarrassing at all) it ran fine for the rest of the day.

I get up the next morning and go to start it and the same thing happens. So I take it to a local shop here in LA and pay $$$ to be told I need a new battery, the old one won't hold enough of a charge to start the car. So I get a new one and the car runs fine for the next 3 weeks.

Fast forward to this morning at cars and coffee and I get back in my car after 2.5hrs to find it's happening again. The fuel pump's going, the lights come on, but the starter is doing nada. Luckily it was right at the end so I pushed it across the empty lot and bumped it again.

I have a list of stuff to check that was suggested on my original post a month ago, but just wanted to blow off some steam. I get it that the shop diagnosed the first problem in the chain, fixed it and as the car started that was that, but, damn it.... f**k you electrical problems!!!!

Could be the Ignition switch. Maybe you should install a hot start relay for the starter. Do you have the seat belt interlock still in the car? Was the battery dead again? If it was, then you have a circuit draining the battery when the car is off

The battery's brand new and it started no problem this morning before I drove an hour down to Irvine, so I'm pretty sure it's not that, although I'll double check just to make sure nothing's draining it.

I'd never heard of the seat belt interlock until you mentioned it and I looked it up. Could this still be an issue on a six conversion? No idea if it's still in the car, although I did just have new seats fitted and the back pad deleted so I'll ask the shop that did that.

The Dreaded Seatbelt Interlock was only present on 74 and some 75 cars. Your 73 doesn't have it.

How's the battery? Is it flat? What's the voltage across the battery posts themselves with the engine off? (Ignore the built-in voltmeter; it is useless for this check.) If you're seeing less than about 12.6V, the battery is not fully charged and you have a charging system problem.

--DD

You could have a bad spot on the starter, dirty spade connector on solenoid, bad ground on tranny ground strap, <9v on yellow start wire at solenoid, bad solenoid, battery cable(s) + all the things mentioned above. A few more of these events and you'll be an expert.

Haha, at least there's some silver lining.

Thanks, and thanks Dave, I'm autocrossing today - people have been helping me bump start it - so I'll start going through all these suggestions tomorrow.

Been busy on a job but gave the battery a quick check when I got back tonight. It's measuring 12.6V with the ignition off. Hopefully get a chance to start checking through things on Saturday.

Same symptoms with mine (a 2.0 D-jet)
Thought it was the battery and/or slow drain but after being away for two weeks, car fired right up. Made a stop, and wouldn't start.

I can go several weeks like this and then, suddenly, it will crank every time for days or weeks. And then back to non-start

I just make sure I always park on an incline

Haha, sounds like a good plan. I know this is going to drive me nuts trying to figure it out.

I chased my tail last year for a few weeks with similar issues after installing a remanufactured starter from FLAPS. My ignition switch was cracked, my jumper wire was too small of a gauge AND my new starter was a POS.

As suggested - Check ignition switch & hotwire your seat belt relay. Clean all wire connections associated with your starter & battery.

If you still have problems, I would highly recommend getting a hi-torque mini starter. I have not had a single starting issue since doing so. If your starter is still good, you could try the relay kit.

Good luck and let us know what you find.

I agree with all the posters here. In addition make sure your alternator is working. Check to see if your alternator light is functioning properly.

If you've never replaced your ignition switch I'd do that as well, $12 and takes about an hour or less.

fyi, I also found if you have jumper cables you can hot wire your car from your battery to the big yellow wire in the cab under the armrest and it will start if the key is on (good trick in case you get stuck again).

If you end up replacing the key switch in the column - remember this tip (from Pelican Parts):

Comments: Seems that reproduction switches aren't built to the tolerances of the original German ones. There is a solution though. Simply adding a shim made from some folded over paper on the right hand side of the switch as viewed from the key's perspective at 3 o'clock is just enough to make the switch work as it should.

I doubted this at first, but when the switch I installed didn't work I gave it a try and it worked as it should!

Followup from the Pelican Staff: Thanks for the additional info. We appreciate it.
- Nick at Pelican Parts