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kixx
Hello All, I have worked on carbs before but have never had to sync them, I have looked on here and have not found the sync ing carbs for dummies guide yet. I am at a loss on where to find info for the dell carbs to get started. The car does start and run as well as idles fair, really seems to just bottom out (lacks power) when i try to get it up to speed. Any and all help is very much appreciated, also i will be needing a temp sensor and a set of air filters for them, any good shop references ??? Thanks, Best Regards
ConeDodger
I would start with the linkage. The common hex bar variety makes synching an exercize in frustration. Original Customs had a group buy on a very good system. Mark always buys more for the shelf so you could start there.
yeahmag
CB Performance makes a guide that will walk you through the ins and outs of dellorto's. It's a great starting point. They should also have all the parts you need to get it going from a dell stand point.

The temp sensor (assuming oil) can be had from many Porsche retailers: Pelican Parts, Sierra Madre Collections, etc...

If you post your specifics about the carbs we can tell you if you are close:

Air Correction Jet
Venturi
Main Jet
Idle Jet

That's the bare minimum you need and to just get it going. A very basic setup would look like this:

Air Correction = 180
Main Jet = 4 * Venturi (stamped on the inner part of the venturi)
60 idle

A good chunk of the time not only will that run, but it will be right.
PotterPorsche
Start here:

http://www.aircooled.net/vw-carburetor-tech/

And I love dellortos . I have 36's ,40's and 45's. I sold a set back in 2000 for $275 spent the last couple years Searching swaps. Also check out blackline racing they have a lot of carb parts.


http://www.blacklineracing.net/about.html

Couple things:
Jet doctors work great on dellortos clogged idles almost non existent.
You need 2 sets

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Dellorto-DRLA...8-p/cb-7348.htm

You also want to buy a squirrel cage to balance the carbs.
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Snail-Type-Sy...te-sk-china.htm

And lastly you may want to rent an lm2 wideband from www.aircooled.net to tune those babies perfect.




kixx
Thank you all very much, I will post specific on the vehicles I have. I now have two 914's one i will be parting out and letting go of one of them, while completing the other. One is a 1975, and the other is a 1971. I will compile a list of each, and hope to let go of parts that will help others out as well. A friend has loaned me a syncro, (motosync) I have not had good results as of yet. I will get pics and specifics loaded on here soon..
anderssj
PM sent.
rhodyguy
first thing i want to know is what sort of fuel pump do you have on your car? a square thing that rattles or round one that goes 'whirr' when you turn your key to the first position?

second is what size of an engine is in your car?
Eric_Shea
This site is also good:

www.performanceoriented.com
kixx
These are on the 71 (the one i am going with unless a real good reason to build the 75 comes up) The other has weber one barrels. 2.0 liter fresh overhaul, many new parts and time has been put into this car and for the most part has to this point been done well. This is the fuel pump being used.
kixx
Fuel pump
rhodyguy
where's the pump picture? you need to ditch the 'old school' fuel line, ALL of it, for modern fuel line and get at least one shouldered fuel line clamp. your linkage has prob seen better days. i can't make out the DRLA # in the picture. use some pbblaster on the carb fasteners and linkage connection points before you start wrenching on them.
yeahmag
Looks like you may have a vacuum port uncapped too. Mine don't have that (40's), so I'm not sure if you can close it off just by turning it (like a brake bleeder) of if you need to cap it.
kixx
this is how i got the car, i have not done much, mostly research. here are a few more pics
hey is there a place on here to post several pics, can members create galleries ?
kixx
QUOTE(yeahmag @ Aug 6 2014, 03:32 PM) *

Looks like you may have a vacuum port uncapped too. Mine don't have that (40's), so I'm not sure if you can close it off just by turning it (like a brake bleeder) of if you need to cap it.

does the other side look like the vacuum is broke off or the stem missing??
yeahmag
You may want to sell those. I ran 45's on a full tilt drag motor (VW). They will never behave the way you want unless that is a large displacement, huge cam, high rev motor. You'll get enough for them to buy yourself a set of 36's or 40's and then some.
kixx
QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Aug 6 2014, 03:27 PM) *

where's the pump picture? you need to ditch the 'old school' fuel line, ALL of it, for modern fuel line and get at least one shouldered fuel line clamp. your linkage has prob seen better days. i can't make out the DRLA # in the picture. use some pbblaster on the carb fasteners and linkage connection points before you start wrenching on them.

looks like 45s, you know about them? pbblaster ??(penetrate oil)
kixx
QUOTE(yeahmag @ Aug 6 2014, 03:47 PM) *

You may want to sell those. I ran 45's on a full tilt drag motor (VW). They will never behave the way you want unless that is a large displacement, huge cam, high rev motor. You'll get enough for them to buy yourself a set of 36's or 40's and then some.

i have a set of weber 1 barrels on the 75
ThePaintedMan
Good spot Aaron. They should both have a vacuum nipple, unless someone inserted a brass plug at some point that we can't see. Either way both need to be capped otherwise synching/tuning will be an effort in futility.

This will be something that you'll look for later on (after everything is synched) but keep an eye out for the dreaded Dellorto drip. Not necessary for us to explain here, but the 45s are particularly susceptible to this condition. First things first is following the advice already posted though. Good luck!
kixx
QUOTE(ThePaintedMan @ Aug 6 2014, 03:51 PM) *

Good spot Aaron. They should both have a vacuum nipple, unless someone inserted a brass plug at some point that we can't see. Either way both need to be capped otherwise synching/tuning will be an effort in futility.

This will be something that you'll look for later on (after everything is synched) but keep an eye out for the dreaded Dellorto drip. Not necessary for us to explain here, but the 45s are particularly susceptible to this condition. First things first is following the advice already posted though. Good luck!

are the air/fuel screws have spings on them? these seen loose, like they could vibrate loose,


what you think?? keep the 45s or go with the webbers
yeahmag
Single barrels aren't going to help you much. You can get the 45's running and then see how you feel. Reversion is worse on a dual, single barrel setup than the dual/dual setup you have now. I'd get it running and see how you feel.

The idle mixture screws have a spring on the inside to help with shake.
kixx
QUOTE(yeahmag @ Aug 6 2014, 04:00 PM) *

Single barrels aren't going to help you much. You can get the 45's running and then see how you feel. Reversion is worse on a dual, single barrel setup than the dual/dual setup you have now. I'd get it running and see how you feel.

The idle mixture screws have a spring on the inside to help with shake.

sounds good, need to cover the vacuum leaks and find some springs, orings go in there as well?
rhodyguy
that is a facet pump. they are not regulated. is there a fuel pressure regulator in-between the pump and the the carbs? first things i would do are replace the pump with a self regulated one (you'll barely hear it) and replace the fuel lines from the tunnel lines out. i know this prob not what you want to hear but it makes things right from the start. sorry.

kevin
kixx
QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Aug 6 2014, 05:13 PM) *

that is a facet pump. they are not regulated. is there a fuel pressure regulator in-between the pump and the the carbs? first things i would do are replace the pump with a self regulated one (you'll barely hear it) and replace the fuel lines from the tunnel lines out. i know this prob not what you want to hear but it makes things right from the start. sorry.

kevin


I have not seen a regulator, ? on the tunnel lines out not sure what you are talking about.. I can look to see what fuel pump my 75 has with those webber carbs, a chance that it would be the correct one?
yeahmag
Just buy the CB rotary pump. Good regulators cost more than that pump.
ThePaintedMan
QUOTE(yeahmag @ Aug 7 2014, 10:56 PM) *

Just buy the CB rotary pump. Good regulators cost more than that pump.


agree.gif
rhodyguy
I was down Portland way and went to a aircooled parts store in oregon city. They sell the self regulated pump for about 1/2 the cost of cb. Can't remember the name or know if they ship.
ThePaintedMan
QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Aug 8 2014, 09:16 AM) *

I was down Portland way and went to a aircooled parts store in oregon city. They sell the self regulated pump for about 1/2 the cost of cb. Can't remember the name or know if they ship.


There are a bunch of people that sell them for cheaper. Either way, they're all rebadged Carter rotary fuel pumps. CB's prices are inflated, IMHO for a bunch of items they sell, though their staff is usually pretty helpful.
damesandhotrods
QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Aug 8 2014, 06:16 AM) *

I was down Portland way and went to a aircooled parts store in oregon city. They sell the self regulated pump for about 1/2 the cost of cb. Can't remember the name or know if they ship.



I don’t remember any place in Oregon City for air cooled parts. There is Clackamas Auto Parts, and they were willing to order air cooled parts. Could it have been Always VW on SE 50th between SE Powell and SE Hawthorne?
rhodyguy
Discount Import Parts in Milwaukie
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