Does anyone have a hi HP plan for a '74 2.0L 914 engine rebuild? I want to get the max possible horespower out of it and retain the reliability. If someone has pushed it to the safe limit and can provide me w/the details i would appreciate it.

Currently fuel injected but I would like to entertain all avenues
smilie

Thanks,
Darryl

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/753901

keep in mind that most mods change peak horsepower location in the rev range. I've done a lot of mods lately to get more hp- perhaps the most significant is the Mallory distributor to top off the web-cam, webers and SSI exhaust. what I wasn't aware of how evrything was gonna happen at higher revs (unless I'm just putterin around). So now I can tell I need 2nd-grar synchros pretty soon.
So make sure you consider all the requirements. Oh, improved brakes are probably helpul too.

QUOTE (SGB @ Jan 22 2005, 09:45 PM)

So now I can tell I need 2nd-grar synchros pretty soon.

you can counter act this a bit by using longer intake runners (or manifolds for your carbs) and longer/higher velocity stacks ...
this will move peak HP down in the rmp band.

also, what muffler do you run? a more restrictive muffler will also move HP down in the power band.

otherwise, keep those revs up!
Andy

I'm running the Bursh exhaust from Pelican Parts. As far as the breaks, I plan on some slotted cryogenic frozen rotors. I already have the 19mm MC and SS brake lines. I'm trying to keep it somewhat as stock as possible but I do want to be safe. This car will do DE/AX events but it will be mostly a daily driver..

thx.........d

QUOTE (basenji7 @ Jan 22 2005, 07:03 PM)

Currently fuel injected but I would like to entertain all avenues

unless you go for a warmed up camshaft, there's no use in using carbs. they won't be making more HP but *will* eat more fuel ...

however, *if* you go with a more agressive camshaft, the stock FI won't cut it.

your call, i guess. the bursch muffler is a good choice, what do you run for the heat-exchangers/headers? SSI HEs have a bigger dia. and help the engine to breath better.

a well set up 2.0L (euro PCs/ euro compression) should get you in the 95HP (at the wheel) range, which is plenty for our little cars, if you know how to use it ...

Andy

displacement. add copiously.

I was thinking somewhere in the 150hp range. Maybe my eyes r bigger than my belly. I'm putting 86rwhp and 109torque now. I saw this and I got all happy: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/695880 210hp is his claim w/a 4. I know better than to believe everything on the internet.

d

Look into Jake Raby's 2270 kit that will be coming soon...it's the best setup and if I''m not mistaken 165 bhp and civil.

Hey

Mines like this :
Web Cam - camshaft
Kobles Euro pistons 8:1
009 recurved distributor
mild worked heads
36mm Dells
Bursch exhaust

The rest of the money went into Blueprinting ie:
Fan, crank, clutch, rods balance.
All new bolt kit, rods, studs , etc
High volume oil pump
deck hights/cc
magnoflex, shot peening
rocker geomet, push rod/rockers with swivvle foot, valve heights.
Very important that you leave no stone unturned for the "reliability" factor. More HP means less reliability.
Mine pulls hard start to finnish, after 9 years.
Now if I can only can eat the 200hp rice burner at the end of the street Maybe with more cyl....
WBR
Joe

QUOTE (basenji7 @ Jan 23 2005, 01:09 AM)

I was thinking somewhere in the 150hp range. Maybe my eyes r bigger than my belly. I'm putting 86rwhp and 109torque now. I saw this and I got all happy: http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/695880 210hp is his claim w/a 4. I know better than to believe everything on the internet. d

If you are talking about a daily driver with 150 BHP (not rear wheel HP) out of a 2.0L with stock F.I. or carbs......not gonna happen unless you start upping the CC's and adding headers, ect which may take you away from the daily driver direction. 150HP out of a 2.0L is no problem as long as you have about $8000 + to invest in a nice race engine.

That 210 HP motor that guy has in his 914 is most likely a six cyl 911 engine.

MORE HP = LOTS of $$$

Simple math here Max hp + Reliability = Jake Raby

QUOTE (basenji7 @ Jan 23 2005, 01:09 AM)

I was thinking somewhere in the 150hp range.

bring WADS of cash ($$$) and forget about the stock rebuild ...

you'll need to change all the internals, work magic on the heads, bump up compression and displacement, run big carbs, get some big headers ...
and then some ...

150 HP will cost you *much* more than you paid for the entire car!
Andy

ive seen this car.

that is at the don and glen swap here in SoCal

thats a FAT built motor.
(and my nissan exterra is in that pic! LOL)

so it actually exists , unlike most other car domain stuff

Jake Raby really seems to be the way to go. Does anyone have a ballpark on the cost? I'm considering one of the 2270 engines.

Thanks for everyone's insight.

darryl

Jake will tell you that each engine is different but you can figure on north of $8K with intake (carbs or FI) and exhaust.

Im not sure its fair to answer any engine questions without an idea on what you're willing to spend. If you go cheap (like me) and spend in the 4k range for a home made 2056cc, you're probably going to get in the 100-110 hp range. But like everybody has said if you have Jake Raby build an engine he can build a monster that will be sweet on the street and push big HP, but crack open the wallet.

I have build a 95rwhp 2056 and it take more than just adding 96mm pistons.

After spending $$$$ to have the heads reworked to 42x38 valves plus exhaust porting
Get a FI cam with alittle more exhaust duration/lift plus ceramic lifters
96mm Nikkies with 9:1 compression
ARP rod bolts
Balancing
Dyno time to set up/tune the MPS!
Should break the 100hp rwhp or 120hp or so with Djet.

Geoff

I've been thinking of building a 2056 but I'm holding off to see Jake's new web site to see how cost effective it might be to go with a 2270.

Forget runnin Djet if you do. A modified 2056 with run Djet no problems unless you get a fancy cam.

Geoff

We made big head way this weekend with the "New Endeavor"...

This is gonna be sweet, but I really have to get on the ball to be done in time!

There are several hundred ways to build these engines, but the best are about to be very simplified. I have plans for any budget, but the main thing is that EVERY component related to the TIV engine, except very, very few is about to have one source...


You can buy my complete engine, but the wait list is now at 9 months+... BUT, you won't have to buy the entire engine the way I have things set up now.. Most of the same combos will be available in kit for, or by the piece and fully compatible...

But don't dare trying to intermingle my stuff with someone elses, nor even ask the question! It has taken years to get the compatibility down, and I'm not interested in trying to make my designs work with the parts others carry..... If you get it all here, either piece by piece, as a full kit or as a complete engine- It will work!

Now days we are only building 2270 and larger engines, the smaller ones are perfected combo wise and will be available so damn complete that you won't even need to buy a nut or bolt to complete the assembly!

It looks like I will even have 4 complete sets of tools to rent out to those assembling my kits, with everything you need right down to the deck height and pushrod geometry tools....


Of course there will still and always will be negative downfalls of building an engine yourself, but the chances of flawed parts or incorrect parts is greatly lessened with doing things my way. Hell, since EVERY kit I plan to sell has been the result of my R&D and over and over testing I can even offer full tuning settings for timing and jetting for any altitude- See where else that exists !
For those that don't want to assemble it, I still have my engine building department, but those engines are now sold fully developed with 90 hours of labor dedicated to their conception and they really are not cheap- They are my hallmark!

BTW- I can do 150HP for a street engine literally in my sleep and recite every setting verbatim for every combination....

Coming VERY soon! T minus 8 DAYS!

the d.d.+ sure seems to be in line with what i want to do and it seems to deliver the power the poster wants. will you be offering a stock cylinder enlargement for those purchasing 96mm pistons and/or kits when the store is open? i'm on the rod list.

kevin

My bored cylinders will be available outright or on an exchange basis.

If you do exchange I HAVE to get your core cylinders first for inspection.

I will no longer be boring customer's cylinders, doing them in bulk once a month is the only way I was able to get the price down.

The bored cylinders are only available with a complete cylinder/piston kit purchase.

The D.D+ engine probably will be one of the 3, 2270 kits I offer.