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Full Version: 1975 914 roller with rebuilt 1911 - -$3000
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tdiddy
So the time has come to finally give up on this project. Car is in a state of (dis?)assembly. Started by building up a 1911 engine, then switched to body work in winter, met a girl, and stopped working on the car.

Fast forward 3+ years and I'm not paying for a wedding and constantly deflecting questions of why I get both parking spots in the garage. More than anything this will definitely help with paying for the wedding.

The engine is mostly assembled in longblock form. All tin is there, except the thermostat and related flaps. I have never ran the engine, so I'm selling it more as a collection of assembled parts than a complete engine. All engine parts where bought via Raby at the Type-4 store, except for the 96mm AA pistons. The case, crank, and rods are from a 1.7L. The case was hottanked cleaned, and the crank and rods were polished and balanced. Everything was true so the engine was reassembled with stock bearings. The heads were the stock 1.7l units, and were redone by Len Hoffman. They were cleaned, checked, flycut for the 96mm pistons, and the spark plug location was relocated to the 2.0L spot. Additionally, he slightly bored out the top of the combustion chamber to keep compression from being too high. The heads were reassembled by Len using components from the Type4store super valvetrain kit. The cam is the mild 9500 grind. The engine currently has dual 36ict carbs which I rebuilt, but would probably benefit from a set of 40's. The cam grind should work with both. A couple of pictures of the engine:
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image

The car has had some work done to the outer longs, and some work done to the hell hole. It's not particularly pretty but it should work. I started installing fiberglass quarter panels on the rear, but only completed the one as shown in the picture. It's been riveted on. I think the car was in a minor accident at some point in time as the passenger side rear corner seems to sit a little higher. The engine mounts, suspension pickup points, and everything else are all level and square though. Here is how the car generally sits right now:

IPB Image

The front flare and side skirt aren't mounted, and are clamped on for the photo. The passenger side hasn't been touched, except the existing quarter panel had the bottom portion cut off for access to the longs for rust repair. Not shown in the picture is where the new fiberglass piece meets the door frame. It's pretty rough, and basically unfinished there. The interior of the car has been stripped and painted, but will need carpet etc.

More pictures of the process, along with bunch of other random pics can be found in my flickr stream here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/46284934@N03/

I'm basically selling this as a collection of new parts. Included either mounted on the car or seperate in boxes are new:
-Len Hoffman Heads
-Type4store 9500 super camshaft kit
-AIR fiberglass panels (front and rear flares/qtrs, side skirts, front spoiler)
-Full clutch kit/PP, and resurfaced flywheel
-Turbo tierods
-Bursch muffler (new and uninstalled, but has a slight dent from shipping process)
-New 19mm master cylinder
-Ground control coilover sleaves and springs
-aircooled.net SDVA distributor with petronix

All told just those parts total approximately $4500. There are many more new parts that are either installed on the car or in boxes. Including the I 4 calipers I rebuilt, new zimmerman rotors, and new installed wheel bearings etc. I just picked those as they're some of the larger items. So based on that I'm thinking for price I'm thinking $6000 OBO...which is basically $5500 in parts and a $500 roller. It's either a solid base for starting a project or one heck of a parts car. Let me know if that's out of line, or make an offer with what you think is right.
Spoke
If the engine is not in the car and you are open to selling the engine separately, I'd be interested in the engine only.
tdiddy
QUOTE(Spoke @ Aug 3 2014, 06:47 AM) *

If the engine is not in the car and you are open to selling the engine separately, I'd be interested in the engine only.


Thanks for the inquiry. As of right now I'm going to try and see if I can offload everything as a package. If things change I'll let you know.

tdiddy
Bump. Price drop to $5,000.
HalfMoon
QUOTE(Spoke @ Aug 3 2014, 07:47 AM) *

If the engine is not in the car and you are open to selling the engine separately, I'd be interested in the engine only.


And I could be interested in the bare tub sans the fiberglass.
tdiddy
Bump from the dead.

Would like to move this as one package still.

Anyone interested in this at $4000, buyer pays shipping?

Feel free to message me questions etc.
tdiddy
Bump.

Also willing to throw in a 2006 Pontiac G6 GT with 132k miles for an additional $4k.

For $8k you can buy your teenager a daily driver and get yourself a project car!!
tach
QUOTE(tdiddy @ Aug 1 2014, 04:47 PM) *

So the time has come to finally give up on this project. Car is in a state of (dis?)assembly. Started by building up a 1911 engine, then switched to body work in winter, met a girl, and stopped working on the car.

Fast forward 3+ years and I'm not paying for a wedding and constantly deflecting questions of why I get both parking spots in the garage. More than anything this will definitely help with paying for the wedding.

The engine is mostly assembled in longblock form. All tin is there, except the thermostat and related flaps. I have never ran the engine, so I'm selling it more as a collection of assembled parts than a complete engine. All engine parts where bought via Raby at the Type-4 store, except for the 96mm AA pistons. The case, crank, and rods are from a 1.7L. The case was hottanked cleaned, and the crank and rods were polished and balanced. Everything was true so the engine was reassembled with stock bearings. The heads were the stock 1.7l units, and were redone by Len Hoffman. They were cleaned, checked, flycut for the 96mm pistons, and the spark plug location was relocated to the 2.0L spot. Additionally, he slightly bored out the top of the combustion chamber to keep compression from being too high. The heads were reassembled by Len using components from the Type4store super valvetrain kit. The cam is the mild 9500 grind. The engine currently has dual 36ict carbs which I rebuilt, but would probably benefit from a set of 40's. The cam grind should work with both. A couple of pictures of the engine:
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image
IPB Image

The car has had some work done to the outer longs, and some work done to the hell hole. It's not particularly pretty but it should work. I started installing fiberglass quarter panels on the rear, but only completed the one as shown in the picture. It's been riveted on. I think the car was in a minor accident at some point in time as the passenger side rear corner seems to sit a little higher. The engine mounts, suspension pickup points, and everything else are all level and square though. Here is how the car generally sits right now:

IPB Image

The front flare and side skirt aren't mounted, and are clamped on for the photo. The passenger side hasn't been touched, except the existing quarter panel had the bottom portion cut off for access to the longs for rust repair. Not shown in the picture is where the new fiberglass piece meets the door frame. It's pretty rough, and basically unfinished there. The interior of the car has been stripped and painted, but will need carpet etc.

More pictures of the process, along with bunch of other random pics can be found in my flickr stream here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/46284934@N03/

I'm basically selling this as a collection of new parts. Included either mounted on the car or seperate in boxes are new:
-Len Hoffman Heads
-Type4store 9500 super camshaft kit
-AIR fiberglass panels (front and rear flares/qtrs, side skirts, front spoiler)
-Full clutch kit/PP, and resurfaced flywheel
-Turbo tierods
-Bursch muffler (new and uninstalled, but has a slight dent from shipping process)
-New 19mm master cylinder
-Ground control coilover sleaves and springs
-aircooled.net SDVA distributor with petronix

All told just those parts total approximately $4500. There are many more new parts that are either installed on the car or in boxes. Including the I 4 calipers I rebuilt, new zimmerman rotors, and new installed wheel bearings etc. I just picked those as they're some of the larger items. So based on that I'm thinking for price I'm thinking $6000 OBO...which is basically $5500 in parts and a $500 roller. It's either a solid base for starting a project or one heck of a parts car. Let me know if that's out of line, or make an offer with what you think is right.


Intrested in the ground control sleeves and springs. How many lbs. are the springs? And how much $.

How much $ for the bursch muffler.

I am local in your area.
tdiddy
Think the springs are 185#. Would let them and the muffler go for $4,000, but I'll throw in the rest of the car at that price.
RFoulds
Can you re-upload the pics? All I see are thumbnails.
tdiddy
Yeah I've been meaning to take some more recent pictures, but in the meantime the link to my Flickr photo stream is in the original post. Full size pictures can be found there including additional photos from various points in the build process. I'll add more and post larger pictures tomorrow when on the computer.
tdiddy
Took some detailed pictures of the car, misc parts, and engine, which can be found at the following link:

https://drive.google.com/folder/d/0B1ZqyzgY...G1JMkR0LUk/edit

Hopefully the link works. Let me know if it doesn't. I'll upload some of the pictures to the forum itself tomorrow. I'll also add captions to the pics tomorrow as well so people can know what they're looking at with some of the random bit's.

Let me know if there is anything else anyone wants to see.

Engine stand and body panel stand included! idea.gif
tdiddy
Edited the title to reflect that the car is actually a 1975 and not a 1976 model as I originally posted. The engine however was a 1.7l I believe from '73. The transmission which I have, but haven't posted pictures of, is the later side shift version.
tdiddy
Any interest at all? confused24.gif

Just went and pulled the invoice on the HAM work back in 2007, and the total was $1,255. The head work by Len and the super valvetrain kit at $945, mean I have a total of approximately $2,200 into the heads alone.

IPB Image

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tdiddy
Just listed on Craiglist locally. Let the tour of crazies begin...really wishing the car drove at this point so I'm not having to show it at my house.
tdiddy
I can't really go much lower on price, but I'm at the point where I would entertain the idea of selling the entire drivetrain separate. This would include the engine, carbs, clutch, pressure plate, ignition, flywheel, transmission, axles, and exhaust for $3,250. Engine stand included as well.
tdiddy
Is there any interest in this at all?

I know its a bit of a mess, but I thought I'd priced it accordingly.

I know there isn't supposed to be commenting in threads, but I'm ok with it if the mods are.

Here is a breakdown of a portion of the new parts that are included in sale and their current retail prices:

Rebuilt HAM Heads: $1255
Type 4 Store super valvetrain kit: $955
Clutch kit (clutch disk, pressure plate, throw-out bearing) $400
Bursch Exhaust: $318
CHT Gauge: $150
Oil Pressure Gauge & sender: $93
Coil: $33
Aircooled.net SVDA Distributor with petronix: $200
Type 1 modified oil pump: $50
New oil cooler: $80
Type4store oil breather box: $126
AA Pistons $315
All new engine bearings: $100
AIR Fiberglass components (rear quarters, front flares, side skirts, and front spoiler) $930.

These parts are all unused, and total more than $5000 alone, and doesn't include the turbo tie-rods, new rotos, and master cylinder that are on the car as well.

Right now I've got this priced at 20% of the retail price of just those parts listed, not to mention that it comes with an entire car as well.

So I guess let me know your thoughts.

I'm happy to answer questions, provide additional pictures, as well as pre-rehab pics as well.







tdiddy
Throwing this on ebay tonight, with a reserve slightly lower than what I've got it listed for here.

I can't take any more of a loss on it than I already am, so if it doesn't sell than I'm going to keep it and I guess start working on it again...because at this point I'd be stupid not to.

Couple of pictures of the car in its current state for those interested.

IPB Image

IPB Image

IPB Image

IPB Image

Again, a ton of detailed pics of the car in its current state can be found here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B1ZqyzgYd...&authuser=0

The longs were repaired by welding on the Auto Atlanta clamshell pieces. New door sill panels were welded in as well. These repairs were done in 2010. The car has sat in a heated garage that collects a fair amount of MN snow and salt.

These are a couple of shots of the longs prior to the repair. These pictures were all taken in 2010, when I was working on the car.

The rust was really limited to just the jackpoint sheet metal as seen here.
IPB Image

Same jackpoint stripped and wire-wheeled.
IPB Image
IPB Image

Driver Side: IPB Image
IPB Image

Underneath the driver quarter panel:
IPB Image

Closeup of the fiberglass quarter panel, which I kind of overlaid on to the existing body.
IPB Image

Again, I'm trying to sell this with little value placed on the roller itself, but figured I'd provide these pictures anyways.

Let me know if you want to see anything else, or have any questions.



914_teener
My thoughts are that you have all the right stuff for a fabulous build. Are you still commited to not entertaining splitting any of the parts off seperately?
tdiddy
Thanks, I started an eBay auction that is going for the next 7 days, so I should probably hold off on parting it out through the remainder of that. After that I'll maybe explore that option, though I've got a bit of a catch-22 in the event I plan on just keeping it and finishing it.

I can drop you a line after the ebay auction and see where things are at.
tdiddy
Auction on eBay ends Wednesday evening if anyone is interested
tdiddy
Bump.

Willing to let the car go for $3800.

Feel free to email me with any questions.
tdiddy
icon_bump.gif

So I'm at a loss for how there has been zero interest for this at $3,800.

Feel free to pm any comments anyone has on this and let me know what I'm doing wrong. I know the body style route I started taking isn't everyone's cup of tea and have tried to price it accordingly. I thought it was a reasonable price even for someone who already has their own project, but maybe I'm mistaken.

Willing to deliver within a long 1-day drive of Minneapolis for an additional $600.

Threw it back on ebay with no reserve and a starting bid of $3300. Will see what happens.
mepstein
QUOTE(tdiddy @ May 30 2015, 10:57 AM) *

icon_bump.gif

So I'm at a loss for how there has been zero interest for this at $3,800.

Feel free to pm any comments anyone has on this and let me know what I'm doing wrong. I know the body style route I started taking isn't everyone's cup of tea and have tried to price it accordingly. I thought it was a reasonable price even for someone who already has their own project, but maybe I'm mistaken.

Willing to deliver within a long 1-day drive of Minneapolis for an additional $600.

Threw it back on ebay with no reserve and a starting bid of $3300. Will see what happens.

The lack of interest is the market telling you your price is too high. Total lack of interest means it's way too high. The parts you bought for the car were your dream, not someone else's. The car still has a lot of work and $$$ before its running and looking nice. 2x what your asking will get you a decent driver. $0.50 on the dollar is just a starting point for this kind of project. I know it hurts but that's just the way it goes. GLWTS.

- If you want to start geting your money back quickly, start parting it out. It's a pita but it will start generating cash.
tdiddy
[quote name='mepstein' date='May 30 2015, 11:52 AM' post='2193134']

[/quote]
The lack of interest is the market telling you your price is too high. Total lack of interest means it's way too high. The parts you bought for the car were your dream, not someone else's. The car still has a lot of work and $$$ before its running and looking nice. 2x what your asking will get you a decent driver. $0.50 on the dollar is just a starting point for this kind of project. I know it hurts but that's just the way it goes. GLWTS.

- If you want to start geting your money back quickly, start parting it out. It's a pita but it will start generating cash.
[/quote]

For the record its basically at 50 cents on the dollar for parts and $1000 for the roller.

The car could be mechanically sound and running, albeit not pretty, for little to no extra money.

Though you're probably right and I may need to part it.
whitetwinturbo
Ebay is a good spot for "parting out".........give it a try! I doubt most folks there would appreciate all the good stuff you have as a total package. Oh well.
tdiddy
I've got the car on ebay with a minimum bid of $3300, which is what it'll be listed at on here in the event it doesn't sell when auction ends on Thursday.

At $3,300 I see the car priced as:

-$1000 roller
-$2200 retail value of the heads and super valvetrain kit
-$100 for EVERYTHING else.

I just don't see how that isn't a fair price.

As far as I know, the heads/valvetrain kit will really work for anyone building a type4 engine of basically any size with 96mm pistons.
whitetwinturbo
GLWTS!
tdiddy
Price lowered to $3,000.

Willing to entertain offers on parting it out in large chunks if that interests people more.

Bueller....Bueller...anyone??
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